Mysterious clicking turned into grinding

JackR88
JackR88 Posts: 10
edited June 2018 in Workshop
HI All,

don't normally post on here as am usually able to handle most my bike maintenance but i am really stuck here.

I had a metallic clicking sound that is consistent with every crank revolution despite gear (so ruled out wheel/casette/chain based issues). The issue is there wether I am seated or standing (ruling out the saddle/saddle post but i removed re-greased and put it back) and happens when i do not have my hands on the handlebars (ruling our stem etc).

I initially thought it was the BB so i replaced this as i had a spare new one, i also checked the cranks for visual signs of wear and re-greased them, this didn't solve the issue so I tried removing the front derailleur but this didn't affect the noise.

I looked online and saw people had suggested it could be the pedals so i tried cycling one legged and issue wasn't present when using right leg but was on left leg so i thought it could be pedals so i tried a different set of pedals but this didn't help.

I then took all the chain ring bolts out and re-greased and re-tightened them with now effect. I have also removed all accessories off my bike and this doesn't change anything.

Any ideas what else i should check or if i have made a wrong assumption?

any help would be most appreciated as i commute on my bike so not ideal to have it stuck at LBS.
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Comments

  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Cleat not seated on the shoe correctly.
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    Cleat not seated on the shoe correctly.

    Thank you. i have tried with non-cleated pedal and shoes and it is still there. Sorry for not including this in the original post
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    Frame damage or loose quick release?

    Also headset?
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Nds crank arm loose on the splines. Is it an fsa gossamer?
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    Vino'sGhost wrote:
    Frame damage or loose quick release?

    Also headset?

    I checked the quick release skewers and no difference. I thought that if it was the headset it wouldnt make the noise if i took my hands off the bars?
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    Nds crank arm loose on the splines. Is it an fsa gossamer?

    I tried tightening them would damage be obvious? it is a schimano tiagra crankset
  • skeetam
    skeetam Posts: 178
    Check and grease the contact points of both front and rear QR skewers. Had clicks with both before.
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    JackR88 wrote:
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    Nds crank arm loose on the splines. Is it an fsa gossamer?

    I tried tightening them would damage be obvious? it is a schimano tiagra crankset
    I would slacken the pinch bolts, retighten the centre to the correct torque then retighten the pinchbolts.
  • 964cup
    964cup Posts: 1,362
    Tiagra hollowtech? Not enough preload before you tightened the pinch bolts? Pinch bolts not tightened to spec?
  • vinny155
    vinny155 Posts: 20
    Check the screws on your derailleur hanger.Ive had similar to you.Last place I thought the noise was coming from.Mine were loose,unbelievable the racket they made,also on every revolution.
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    964Cup wrote:
    Tiagra hollowtech? Not enough preload before you tightened the pinch bolts? Pinch bolts not tightened to spec?

    Yes hollowtech. I have now double checked this and it hasn't made any difference :(
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    Vinny155 wrote:
    Check the screws on your derailleur hanger.Ive had similar to you.Last place I thought the noise was coming from.Mine were loose,unbelievable the racket they made,also on every revolution.


    thanks hadn't thought to look here but i have now and no change...
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,811
    Tried everything to fix a noise on my son’s road bike. It’s an old steel frame with more modern components. Did all of the above and had convinced myself it was the frame. Tried the crankset off my bike as a last resort and the noise went. I had done pedals, BB and chainring bolts as you have. Cleaned and greased the lot. That was on a Shimano hollowtech too. I can only assume the spindle was moving against the drive side crank.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    JackR88 wrote:
    HI All,

    don't normally post on here as am usually able to handle most my bike maintenance but i am really stuck here.

    I had a metallic clicking sound that is consistent with every crank revolution despite gear (so ruled out wheel/casette/chain based issues). The issue is there wether I am seated or standing (ruling out the saddle/saddle post but i removed re-greased and put it back) and happens when i do not have my hands on the handlebars (ruling our stem etc).

    Are you sure it's not your wheels?
    I would check the spokes if I were you.

    I had similar issue a couple of years ago which drove me mad. Was convinced it was bb as it was every crank revolution. Lbs finally got to the bottom of it and it turned out to be the spokes on the mavic kysriums.
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    redvision wrote:
    JackR88 wrote:
    HI All,

    don't normally post on here as am usually able to handle most my bike maintenance but i am really stuck here.

    I had a metallic clicking sound that is consistent with every crank revolution despite gear (so ruled out wheel/casette/chain based issues). The issue is there wether I am seated or standing (ruling out the saddle/saddle post but i removed re-greased and put it back) and happens when i do not have my hands on the handlebars (ruling our stem etc).

    Are you sure it's not your wheels?
    I would check the spokes if I were you.

    I had similar issue a couple of years ago which drove me mad. Was convinced it was bb as it was every crank revolution. Lbs finally got to the bottom of it and it turned out to be the spokes on the mavic kysriums.

    Why would spokes click at once per crank revolution? i think this is unlikely as it doesnt happen when freewheeling but i thinking my wheels could do with truing anyway so may see if this is the issue
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    JackR88 wrote:

    Why would spokes click at once per crank revolution? i think this is unlikely as it doesnt happen when freewheeling but i thinking my wheels could do with truing anyway so may see if this is the issue

    Because the watts you put through the cranks end up at the wheels.

    Many rear wheels will have a cross spoke pattern and if one is loose or rubbing on another it will cause exactly the grinding/ cracking noise you are hearing.
    So defo worth a shot looking.
  • Sutton_Rider
    Sutton_Rider Posts: 493
    No one's mentioned cleaning the chain. Worth a shot.
  • JackR88
    JackR88 Posts: 10
    Sutton Rider wrote:
    No one's mentioned cleaning the chain. Worth a shot.

    I have cleaned the chain thoroughly and thats not the issue.

    I think i am going to have to take a trip to the LBS and get them to look for the click/grinding.....i will let you know how i get on if they can find the issue.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    If you have checked everything else my money is on the wheels.
  • SHHH
    SHHH Posts: 22
    Like others have said, my money is on the skewers too. When/if I have clicking problems, they generally come from 2 places. Either the BB (PF) or the dropouts/wheel skewers. Clean the dropouts and apply a tiny bit of grease. Tighten skewers firmly.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 17,142
    This isn't the first time I've seen someone advising putting grease on drop outs. Please don't.

    In the unlikely event that your skewers are moving in the drop outs all you would be doing is facilitating such movement and, assuming you survive the experiment of greasing the interface holding your wheels on, the problem will recur as soon as the grease has washed out. Only it would be worse, on account of all that movement.

    Out of curiosity, is the chainset one of the Shimano ones where the cranks are two shells glued together? You see where I'm going there. In any case, the advice to switch cranks entirely is worth following, then the wheels (or vice versa).
  • dee4life2005
    dee4life2005 Posts: 773
    Does it happen regardless of whether you're in big or little ring at the front?
    Worth checking that your shoe isn't catching the cable from the front derailleur ... I'm sure you've checked this, but just thought I'd put it out there.
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/307297
  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    Tyre valves knocking against the rims. Try putting some lube where the spokes cross each other.
  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    First Aspect wrote:
    This isn't the first time I've seen someone advising putting grease on drop outs. Please don't.

    In the unlikely event that your skewers are moving in the drop outs all you would be doing is facilitating such movement and, assuming you survive the experiment of greasing the interface holding your wheels on, the problem will recur as soon as the grease has washed out. Only it would be worse, on account of all that movement.

    Out of curiosity, is the chainset one of the Shimano ones where the cranks are two shells glued together? You see where I'm going there. In any case, the advice to switch cranks entirely is worth following, then the wheels (or vice versa).

    Modern forks / dropouts have ‘lawyers lips’. It’s tricky to lose a wheel by accident.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,811
    Milemuncher1 wrote:
    Modern forks / dropouts have ‘lawyers lips’. It’s tricky to lose a wheel by accident.
    Forks do, rear dropouts don't.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    SkeetAM wrote:
    Check and grease the contact points of both front and rear QR skewers. Had clicks with both before.

    Not your best idea. As already pointed out.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    The fact it happens once per revolution of the cranks doesn't necessarily implicate the BB / Chainset / pedals. The bike is moving from side to side as you pedal, so it can easily be coming from the wheels / hubs / headset etc etc.

    I once spent 60 miles convinced I needed a new BB or pedals because of a creak every revolution of the cranks, but right at the end of the ride I twigged it was the saddlebag swinging on the saddle rails. :roll:

    Can you create the noise when you're off the bike? It can be easier to pinpoint a noise with the bike on the workstand and using a bit of tubing as a ghetto stethoscope.
  • First.Aspect
    First.Aspect Posts: 17,142
    Am I the only person who can see the word "grinding" in the thread title?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    No, I can see it too. Grinding's usually bearings, often in the rear hub / freehub.
  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    Veronese68 wrote:
    Milemuncher1 wrote:
    Modern forks / dropouts have ‘lawyers lips’. It’s tricky to lose a wheel by accident.
    Forks do, rear dropouts don't.

    True, but it would be a monumental effort to completely lose a rear wheel, given how much kit is at the back of the bike.

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