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142X12 to 148x12 adapter

buddy_clubbuddy_club Posts: 935
edited May 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

My current wheelset has a 142x12mm rear hub - i have the option of picking up a specialized stumpjumper frame which has a boost rear end, 148mm x 12 - superstar dont make a 148mm adapter for the switch hub i currently have, however there are a number of unspecific general adapters available online to convert any hub - are there any problems with running these? Anyone got experience of them?

Link for reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-Boost-Thru-Axle-Hub-Adapter-for-Boost-Spaced-Frame-12mm-x-142mm-to-148mm-6g/152903091302?hash=item2399bc0466:g:BPEAAOSwXoxagCH6

Ben
Framebuilder
Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB

Posts

  • buddy_clubbuddy_club Posts: 935
    The Rookie wrote:
    Not going to work, the disc and freehub will be too close to the centreline by 3mm.
    Will the disc be too close even with the disc rotor spacer? Also freehub being 3mm closer could surely be solved with re-arranging the spacers on the bottom bracket or adding them to the chainring. If it would even make that much difference to chainline.
    Framebuilder
    Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
    Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
    Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
    Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
    Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB
  • 02GF7402GF74 Posts: 1,294
    See ebay item 122932450546
    Looks like it is a spacer to move the rotor out, it will need slightly longer bolts.

    You will need spacer to fit on the maxle, again it looks like these are available.
  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Sounds like a lot of messing around i'd be tempted to just look for a new boost wheel.
  • ctp046ctp046 Posts: 44
    I can't see why it wouldn't work. For the price I'd definitely try to go that route before buying a whole new wheel.

    The WolfTooth Boostinator writeup notes that you'll need to re-dish your wheel though (with the WT kit). My guess is that you move the hub more towards the drive side to fix your chainline (larger spacer on the non-drive side) and therefore you redish so that the rim/tire is still centered. So You'll either need the skills to do that yourself or else you'll need to factor in that cost.
  • 02GF7402GF74 Posts: 1,294
    swod1 wrote:
    Sounds like a lot of messing around i'd be tempted to just look for a new boost wheel.
    Im not sure, but it looks like what is needed is.
    148 mm axle
    Two 3mm spacers on axle
    Spacer for rotor

    Downside is you don't get benefit of a boost wheel, but wheel is not any weaker but more significantly the chain line will be out and possibly rear mech is not able to move across the cassette, as that is inboard by 3mm.
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