(2005) Marin Palisades Trail +AHT.01.3
Niggler
Posts: 13
I'm currently rebuilding a 2005 Marin Palisades Trail +AHT.01.3.
I'm having to replace various parts which are either broken or very worn and would like advice with replacement's and upgrade suggestions where suitable. I'll update the list as I strip the bike.
Wheel Hubs:
Stock hubs are Shimano FH-M475 (front) and HB-M475 (rear).
Both have heavily pitted bearing cups which cannot be repaired, I can either replace like for like or a slight upgrade to Shimano XT M756 (front) and Deore XT M756A (rear).
Would this be correct and/or recommend?
I'm having to replace various parts which are either broken or very worn and would like advice with replacement's and upgrade suggestions where suitable. I'll update the list as I strip the bike.
Wheel Hubs:
Stock hubs are Shimano FH-M475 (front) and HB-M475 (rear).
Both have heavily pitted bearing cups which cannot be repaired, I can either replace like for like or a slight upgrade to Shimano XT M756 (front) and Deore XT M756A (rear).
Would this be correct and/or recommend?
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Comments
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Do you mean new wheel or a hub swap build?
475s are quite workman like, the old XTs are not too different.
I've just put an RH-66 on a wheel and it seems a bit better than the 475...0 -
Chunkers1980 wrote:Do you mean new wheel or a hub swap build?
475s are quite workman like, the old XTs are not too different.
I've just put an RH-66 on a wheel and it seems a bit better than the 475...
Hub swap, rims and spokes are fine. I'll have a look into the RH-66's, thanks.0 -
Sorry - that should have been RM-660
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Can't see the RM66 around - this is what I'd go for in its absence:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod1616540 -
So...
I've got my frame back, had a chainstay repaired and the frame resprayed (Vernon Barker cycles in Dronfield) and was keen to get the rebuild underway.
I've fallen at the first hurdle, the BB.
Originally fitted was a TruVativ power spline (LP MB603), I checked them double checked and it looked like a Shimano BB-MT800 would be a straight forward swap. It isn't, I'm only able to get the new Shimano BB in about half way and then the thread feels really tight. I'm unsure if I'm just being too cautious or if I've ordered something that's incompatible, then again maybe i need to take it to my LBS and get the shell refaced and have it installed there, although I'd like to do as much as possible myself.
Help and advice please!
I should just add, I can hand tighten the old BB into place without much resistance it's just when I try to install the Shimano BB (again only by hand) that there feels like there's a problem.0 -
Spokes will only be fine if your next hub has the same dimensions (flange location and spoke hole diameter) otherwise they are useless.Niggler wrote:Chunkers1980 wrote:
Hub swap, rims and spokes are fine.
Sounds like the threads need chasing out in the BB shell.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Niggler wrote:.......
I've fallen at the first hurdle, the BB.
Originally fitted was a TruVativ power spline (LP MB603), I checked them double checked and it looked like a Shimano BB-MT800 would be a straight forward swap. It isn't, I'm only able to get the new Shimano BB in about half way and then the thread feels really tight. I'm unsure if I'm just being too cautious or if I've ordered something that's incompatible, then again maybe i need to take it to my LBS and get the shell refaced and have it installed there, although I'd like to do as much as possible myself.
Help and advice please!
I should just add, I can hand tighten the old BB into place without much resistance it's just when I try to install the Shimano BB (again only by hand) that there feels like there's a problem.
I cannot say with confidence that the TruVativ BB and the Shimano one are compatible because I don't know without checking for myself. However, if you can screw it in halfway by hand then the threads are likely to be compatible. It is a large diameter thread to screw in by hand and the resistance will slowly increase the further in you go. But half way is a long way. Before trying again, ensure both the threads are clean and look carefully for signs of any damage to either thread. If all is well, apply some light oil to the male thread. Screw in as before by hand until you cannot go any further, then try your handtool. It should turn the rest of the way quite easily. The further in you get without much effort, the more confidence you should have that the threads are compatible.0 -
Presumably the new BB came with threadlock applied to the threads? That can make it appear harder to tighten than the old one, but perfectly normal. Does the threaded part on the new cups look about the same depth / number of threads as the old?
I'd be using copperslip rather than oil when installing a new threaded BB0 -
keef66 wrote:....
I'd be using copperslip rather than oil when installing a new threaded BB
So would I normally, but the OP was having doubts about whether the thread was the correct one.
"CopperEase" - wonderfull stuff!
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The Rookie wrote:
Spokes will only be fine if your next hub has the same dimensions (flange location and spoke hole diameter) otherwise they are useless.Niggler wrote:Chunkers1980 wrote:
Hub swap, rims and spokes are fine.
Sounds like the threads need chasing out in the BB shell.
That's my naivety on show right there! Yeah different hubs so new spokes are required.0 -
B&B fitted!
90% of the problem was my overcautiousness, the other 10% due to some threadlock on the new BB and maybe the frames BB shell thread not being as clean as it could of been. It may of also looked worse than it was as when test fitting i didn't have the BB spacers on. Anyway it all seems to have been pretty straight forward in the end!0 -
More help needed!!
I'm now in wheel building purgatory.
I've bought Shimano HB-M7000 (front) and FB-M7000 (rear) hubs and a pair of Sun Ringle Inferno 25 rims. I was hoping to use the DT Swiss spoke calculator to work out how many of which spokes I'll need and then build it from there.
However... The information for the Shimano hubs seems so difficult to find, I'm missing flange distance left/right and spoke hole diameter data. Does anyone have an idea where I could find this information or has anyone built wheels using these hubs?
As always any help is greatly appreciated.0 -
Surely if you have the hubs to hand then you can measure the two dimensions yourself, or is it more complicated than that.0
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Shimano give the necessary measurements on their website, but it can be a little confusing.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/ ... M7000.html
Spoke hole diamater is listed as PCD (44mm for both flanges), the distance between the flanges is 60.2mm and they are offset by 5.5mm, so the disc side flange is 24.6mm from the hub centreline and the non disc side is 35.6mm from the centreline, once you have the measurements it's easy to confirm with a rule.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Firstly, TheRookie thanks for your help, there's only one more measurement I need that I can't get!
I think the calculator is asking for the diameter of the hub's actual spoke holes (not the distance between the holes on the flanges), I'm unable to measure this accurately enough and having looked at spokes available it looks like this may make a difference, 1.8mm Vs. 2.0mm.0 -
That's the 44mm PCD (note the flange diameter is bigger....) PCD = pitch circle diamater.
Spokes will nearly all be 2.0mm at the J-bend, butted only drop to 1.8mm about 20-25mm out from the J.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
