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di2 for my propel

chatlowchatlow Posts: 843
edited May 2018 in Workshop
Hi All,

Finally getting around to fitting di2 on my Propel Pro 2. I have gone for the 6870 kit as they've come down in price but I have a few questions.

1. Cabling - what length would I need for a propel size small?
2. Junction box - not that bothered about other shifting buttons, but is it still worth getting the 5 port for some other add-ons?
3. Synchro shifting - From what I have read I will need a new battery (BT-DN110) with the latest firmware to get this option. Is it just a case of connecting the battery to my mac and downloading?

So far I have got the shifters, RD and FD. Plan on getting the junction box, battery, battery charger, and wiring. Hopefully that's all I need..


Thanks,

Posts

  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    chatlow wrote:
    Hi All,

    Finally getting around to fitting di2 on my Propel Pro 2. I have gone for the 6870 kit as they've come down in price but I have a few questions.

    1. Cabling - what length would I need for a propel size small?
    2. Junction box - not that bothered about other shifting buttons, but is it still worth getting the 5 port for some other add-ons?
    3. Synchro shifting - From what I have read I will need a new battery (BT-DN110) with the latest firmware to get this option. Is it just a case of connecting the battery to my mac and downloading?

    So far I have got the shifters, RD and FD. Plan on getting the junction box, battery, battery charger, and wiring. Hopefully that's all I need..


    Thanks,

    1. Get the longest cables you can. Better to have too long cables than too short. Measure the distances the cable has to run and there you go. Add a bit to ensure the cable is long enough.
    2. Depends which junction A you go for; under stem or bar end. Di2 doesn't have to have everything plugged into junction A to work. Junction A to R shifter, R shifter to L shifter and L shifter to junction B.I recommend the bar end junction A as its far neater.
    3. You'll need to connect your PC to the junction A charging port and open the Etube software. From there you can configure synchronised shifting.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 843
    thanks - although I was unaware of a Junction B box, so will have to research further!

    Or are you referring to SM-EW90-A as junction A (3 port) and EW90-B for 5 port?

    Think I would prob go for one of the above junction boxes rather than bar end as easier and no drilling involved.


    Thanks,
  • chatlow wrote:
    thanks - although I was unaware of a Junction B box, so will have to research further!

    Or are you referring to SM-EW90-A as junction A (3 port) and EW90-B for 5 port?

    Think I would prob go for one of the above junction boxes rather than bar end as easier and no drilling involved.

    Thanks,

    No Junction B typically joins the Battery, Front and Rear Mechs and the cable going out to the Junction A. Id just get a 3 port junction unless you plan on using clip on tri bars and want to be able to run extra shifters to them easily.

    Other parts which you may not have thought about are things like the rubber top cap tube, chainstay grommet etc which are all specific to the propel though readily available if you dont have them. Also the Di2 battery clap to go into the seatpost.
  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    chatlow wrote:
    thanks - although I was unaware of a Junction B box, so will have to research further!

    Or are you referring to SM-EW90-A as junction A (3 port) and EW90-B for 5 port?

    Think I would prob go for one of the above junction boxes rather than bar end as easier and no drilling involved.


    Thanks,

    Your cable run is as follows:
    Junction A to R shifter.
    R shifter to L shifter.
    L shifter to Junction b in the BB area.
    From Junction B you have F & R derailleurs and the battery.

    https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 843
    thanks all - I have ordered the battery & charger (and already have the shifters, FD/RD), so just after the wires and junction boxes now. Will have a think about which setup will be best
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    chatlow wrote:
    thanks all - I have ordered the battery & charger (and already have the shifters, FD/RD), so just after the wires and junction boxes now. Will have a think about which setup will be best

    SRAM Red mechanical.

    There you go.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    chatlow wrote:
    thanks all - I have ordered the battery & charger (and already have the shifters, FD/RD), so just after the wires and junction boxes now. Will have a think about which setup will be best

    SRAM Red mechanical.

    There you go.

    Having come from SRAM mechanical to Shimano R8050 Di2, I'd never go back. And the hidden buttons of the R8050 are a useful feature.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    having ridden that Shimano a lot i wouldn't rate it against Red at all - not as nice to use by a country mile.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 843
    do these cables sound about right for Giant Propel in small.

    2 x 350mm (shifters to junction box on stem)
    1 x 1200mm (junction box on stem to box near BB)
    1 x 600mm (rear mech)
    1 x 500mm (from mech)
    1 x 750mm (battery)

    Thanks,
  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    chatlow wrote:
    do these cables sound about right for Giant Propel in small.

    2 x 350mm (shifters to junction box on stem)
    1 x 1200mm (junction box on stem to box near BB)
    1 x 600mm (rear mech)
    1 x 500mm (from mech)
    1 x 750mm (battery)

    Thanks,

    You don't need to wire each shifter to Junction A, just shifter to shifter and then 1 shifter to Junction A.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 843
    philthy3 wrote:
    chatlow wrote:
    do these cables sound about right for Giant Propel in small.

    2 x 350mm (shifters to junction box on stem)
    1 x 1200mm (junction box on stem to box near BB)
    1 x 600mm (rear mech)
    1 x 500mm (from mech)
    1 x 750mm (battery)

    Thanks,

    You don't need to wire each shifter to Junction A, just shifter to shifter and then 1 shifter to Junction A.

    That would mean returning the 2nd 350mm shifter cable for another longer one and from what I can see (including a GCN video) the common method is to connect each shifter to Junction A.
  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    chatlow wrote:
    philthy3 wrote:
    chatlow wrote:
    do these cables sound about right for Giant Propel in small.

    2 x 350mm (shifters to junction box on stem)
    1 x 1200mm (junction box on stem to box near BB)
    1 x 600mm (rear mech)
    1 x 500mm (from mech)
    1 x 750mm (battery)

    Thanks,

    You don't need to wire each shifter to Junction A, just shifter to shifter and then 1 shifter to Junction A.

    That would mean returning the 2nd 350mm shifter cable for another longer one and from what I can see (including a GCN video) the common method is to connect each shifter to Junction A.

    https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k

    This video I posted earlier in the thread shows you that you as long as everything is connected, Di2 works. Connecting shifter to shifter and only one to Junction A leaves you a port free should you decide later to connect tri bar shifters or blips.

    This one explains it better. The handlebar Junction A is no different to the under stem type.

    https://youtu.be/WCnsKwLf9F8
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • chatlowchatlow Posts: 843
    Appreciate that thanks - and I would return one of the shorter shifter cables for a longer one if I really needed to free up that extra port, but I'm okay.

    One question - in order to setup the 8050 shifting buttons to control my wahoo elemnt, do you require the etube wu-111 module, or can it all be done without this?
  • StillGoingStillGoing Posts: 5,207
    chatlow wrote:
    Appreciate that thanks - and I would return one of the shorter shifter cables for a longer one if I really needed to free up that extra port, but I'm okay.

    One question - in order to setup the 8050 shifting buttons to control my wahoo elemnt, do you require the etube wu-111 module, or can it all be done without this?

    Yes you do. You can set it up by plugging into a PC, but it won't link with your cycle computer without it.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
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