Cassette digging in to freehub body

redvision
redvision Posts: 2,958
edited May 2018 in Workshop
Have a few sets of Fulcrum training wheels (7's, quattro's and 3's) but when i went to take the cassette off the 3's (for a clean) it had dug in a bit to the freehub. I should add that when installed grease was used and it was tightened to the correct torque.

Having discussed it with the LBS they said Fulcrum wheels are renowned for this, although i haven't found many complaints online and I have never experienced this on previous sets of fulcrums i have owned. Anyway, i decided to check the other sets i have (which have both done less than 300miles) and the cassettes on both had also dug in. Not much, but it would not slide off easily and had created a groove in the freehub body.

Fulcrum haven't responded yet but whilst i wait for them to comment, has anyone else experienced this? Is there a way to protect the freehub body to prevent this happening?

Comments

  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    its not unusal, Zipp hubs are terrible for this too. I think theyre made of butter or something.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    The only "solution" I've heard of is having a sram red cassette which is expensive and not sure if it's worth it if it costs as much as the wheels.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    Cheers for the replies.

    Sounds like there is no easy fix/prevention then :(
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,700
    It's because the freehub body is made of aluminium in an attempt to keep weight down, unfortunately aluminium does have cheese like qualities. Some Novatec hubs do it as well but they now do what they call an anti-bite guard, it's a steel insert on one of the splines to stop the cassette digging in. The other option is a cassette that has all the sprockets mounted on a one piece carrier so as to spread the load. Is Sram Red the only one?
    Kinesis Pro6
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    Cotic Solaris
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    ^ wot they all said.

    I'm assuming you're running Shimano or SRAM?

    It's a lot worse on Shimano / SRAM pattern freehubs because the splines are shallower than Campag. That's why Shimano use steel on their own freehubs.

    If you're on 11 speed you could fit a Campag pattern freehub and cassette.
  • i.bhamra
    i.bhamra Posts: 304
    It's also made worse/accelerated if you push bigger gears at lower cadence applying more torque to the cranks which is transferred to the freehub body.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    keef66 wrote:
    ^ wot they all said.

    I'm assuming you're running Shimano or SRAM?

    It's a lot worse on Shimano / SRAM pattern freehubs because the splines are shallower than Campag. That's why Shimano use steel on their own freehubs.

    If you're on 11 speed you could fit a Campag pattern freehub and cassette.

    Yeah, i'm running shimano 10 speed on my training bike.
    I think the tiagra 10 speed cassette is 1 piece so might look at that
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    10 speed so you can't do the Campag option :(

    Tiagra 10 speed has the first 7 sprockets on a carrier and the 3 smallest separate. That might help quite a lot. I'd have thought it's the bigger sprockets that are more likely to dig in.

    Or the older 10 speed Ultegra CS-6600 with a smallest sprocket of 13t or larger? The sprockets come in 2 big chunks and only the smallest one is separate

    http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-CS-6600-2370.pdf

    Tredz have them in 14-25 and 16-27

    https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-Ultegr ... zEALw_wcB#
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Using a paper clip (steel) and sliding it down a couple of the splines can reduce this. Otherwise just file down any protruding alloy taggy bits and refit cassette.
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Had this with my Hope hub and now run a steel freehub body which was a tool free swap.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • ctp046
    ctp046 Posts: 47
    On most hubs you can get a new free hub relatively cheap (around $100) so worst case scenario you can always replace it. Not really sure if you're better running cheaper cassettes (e.g. 105 instead of ultegra) and replacing the freehub once every few years or running more expensive cassettes and not having to worry about freehubs. Probably comes out close to the same price in the end.
  • term1te
    term1te Posts: 1,462
    Ensuring the lock ring on the cassette is done up as tightly as recommended, using a torque wrench, will help to minimise this.
    The Master
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  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I had this problem on a hope hub when I had one. Had to swap it for a steel freehub because the cassettes were almost unremovable.

    I am fitter now and have zero issues with alloy miche freehubs. Even with a miche steel Shimano cassette I have failed to notch them. Sometimes it is the way the rider rides. Too.

    Titanium freehubs don't notch so just get Royce hubs simply perfect.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    You can do the lockrings up to 50Nm safely if the threads are clean and the lockrings screws in by hand. Maybe this is how I avoid notching by tightening as tight as I dare. The other solution is use campagnolo, it is a superior freehub spline design.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Steve O'C
    Steve O'C Posts: 13
    I should add that when installed grease was used and it was tightened to the correct torque.

    Much discussion about wheather or not to use grease on the freehub body here:

    https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=120127&hilit=fretting+freehub

    I was convinced by the argument to assemble dry.

    Steve

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