Wrong Bike For Commute
blackstar500
Posts: 139
My Commute is currently 46 miles round trip , which I do two times a week .
My current bike is a specialized sequoia steel frame all the way ... I like the fact it has got wider clearance for full mudguards and wider tyres ..running a 38 mm tyre . It is very comfortable bike
My issue ..I think I am using a wrong type bike for my commute as it is quite a heavy bike ...and also feel
I.am carrying an unnecessary 5kg weight with me everytime I ride .
I would like to change this to a lighter bike that will allow a reasonable bigger tyre maybe up to 32m... clearance for full mudguards ..hydraulic brakes ..Aluminum
Please recommend a bike
Thanks
My current bike is a specialized sequoia steel frame all the way ... I like the fact it has got wider clearance for full mudguards and wider tyres ..running a 38 mm tyre . It is very comfortable bike
My issue ..I think I am using a wrong type bike for my commute as it is quite a heavy bike ...and also feel
I.am carrying an unnecessary 5kg weight with me everytime I ride .
I would like to change this to a lighter bike that will allow a reasonable bigger tyre maybe up to 32m... clearance for full mudguards ..hydraulic brakes ..Aluminum
Please recommend a bike
Thanks
0
Comments
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There is no wrong bike for a communt.
Train heavy race light.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:There is no wrong bike for a communt.
Train heavy race light.
I don't have any race bike or partake in any race ...0 -
There are several alu framed road bikes with discs, but most take at max a 28mm tyre. Kinesis 4S Disc is a good example.
Some which might appear suitable don't have mounts for proper mudguards.
If you really want fatter tyres there's a growing number of Gravel or Adventure road bikes around, but the extra robustness comes with a weight penalty.
But if you are carrying any amount of luggage on your commute, I'd say you already have a pretty decent bike.0 -
Your bike is decent - about a grand ? How much more do you want to pay ?
Weight isn't THAT important. You could spend 2 grand just to shave off a minute or two each way. Is that worth it ?0 -
Agree with the other posters, your bike sounds great for a long commute.
Also, depending on where your commute is it'll be pretty hard to save significant time from your commute by dropping weight (if saving time is your target).0 -
Which Sequioa model and year bike have you got?
If the internal rim width is 25mm like the model I quickly googled, there would be absolutely no issues in running this bike with 30+mm measured width tyres, for instance the Continental Grand Sport Race 28s that measure ~31mm on my Cube's 17mm internal rim width wheels.================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0 -
NitrousOxide wrote:Which Sequioa model and year bike have you got?
.
The first one .. basic
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sequo ... 196-1292480 -
joey54321 wrote:Agree with the other posters, your bike sounds great for a long commute.
Also, depending on where your commute is it'll be pretty hard to save significant time from your commute by dropping weight (if saving time is your target).
Time is secondary . My main concern was that I think I am carrying an unnecessary load in terms of the bike weight and making we tired or putting stress on my body .. I would like to do at least three days of commute .. maybe if I drop the weight , I may just achieve that...0 -
If you WANT a new bike, you don't need to justify it by claiming you have the wrong bike for commuting (there's no such thing - well maybe a £10k time-trial bike but you know what I mean). Why is the Spesh unsuitable? Is your commute particularly hilly? Mine is a similar distance, and quite 'lumpy', and I do it on a steel bike with disc brakes/mudguards that is in no way light, but it's ideal for the job. Then again so would a 7kg carbon stealth aero number!0
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How long have you been doing the commute ? You will get stronger.
Have you looked at what you wear to commute ? Flappy stuff is going to slow you a lot more than tight fitting kit. Lycra is the way forward.0 -
Fenix wrote:Your bike is decent - about a grand ? How much more do you want to pay ?
Weight isn't THAT important. You could spend 2 grand just to shave off a minute or two each way. Is that worth it ?
I am 39 years old .. Don't want to stress any part of my body ... I am figuring that maybe a touring bike built to carry heavy load is just not useful for commuting .. I may be wrong0 -
The bike you have won't be unduly stressing your body in anyway. YOU might be, by attempting your commute too frequently or trying to go too fast, but that will be true on any bike and is down to your mentality.
If you want to get a new bike then 100% go for it, I am not trying to put you off buying one. It's just it won't make any difference to the stress on your body, your effort or the time on your commute.
I obviously know nothing about you so take this advice with a pinch of salt but perhaps consider a bike fit to ensure you are 100% in a good position on your current bike rather than a purchasing a new bike. Also good investments for regular commutes are quality kit, good tyres, good bike lights, etc...
p.s. a lighter bike will make literally 0% difference on how frequently you can do the commute.0 -
blackstar500 wrote:
I am 39 years old .. Don't want to stress any part of my body ... I am figuring that maybe a touring bike built to carry heavy load is just not useful for commuting .. I may be wrong
39 ? Spring chicken !!0 -
blackstar500 wrote:NitrousOxide wrote:Which Sequioa model and year bike have you got?
.
The first one .. basic
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sequo ... 196-129248
That bike looks like a great commuter bike to me.
Something that could make a significant difference could be to change the tires if you're still using the stock ones. It could be worth buying something like these, especially if the majority of your riding is on the road:
https://www.merlincycles.com/schwalbe-g ... 98628.html
The 35mm or 38mm ones would make quite a difference and it looks like the wheels are tubeless ready which would further reduce the rolling resistance and increase reliability if you run the tires as tubeless.0 -
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/ultra-520-a ... 90785.html
This is a brilliant bike for the money, it would work well as a commuter and for other rides too.0 -
Alu Synapse disc? GT Grade?
Just wander into Evans and ask them what they'd recommend if you want a light alloy frame + wider tyres + disc brakes + mudguards. That would at least give you a shortlist.
And what budget??
If money's no object, have a look at Mason Cycles....0 -
Most of the adventure bikes are built to pass the off-road standards. I want something on-road / audax with probably 30 to 35mm tyres, but without the heft of the off-road capability.
Road disc bikes seem to come up a bit narrow on clearance if you want mudguards (Boardman steel winter bike, pinnacle dolomite, genesis equilibrium).
Touring bikes usually have steel forks and weigh a ton.
I think my ideal bike might be the Planet X tempest (Ti), with guards and light rack, a Shimano Tiagra hydro groupset with hunt dyno disk wheelset running 30 or 32mm tubeless tyres. Ideally I'd like to buy something on cycle to work though!
Dolan ADX another option.
Sabbath AR1
Something like the Planet X tempest (Ti), London Road or Full Monty?
Cube NuRoad exc looking interesting.0 -
alan sherman wrote:I want something on-road / audax with probably 30 to 35mm tyres, but without the heft of the off-road capability.
Mason Definition fits the bill, but you're talking £3k+ for the Ultegra with hydro discs. Nice though...0 -
Looks like the overall consensus..is that a lighter will make little or no difference and the current bike is a commuter. Maybe I should drop body weight by 5kg .
. Overall the current bike comfortability is very good... I have dropped the tyre from 42 to 38 mm and also running tubeless setup ... I may go down to 35mm tyre next time wrong...0 -
I do a long commute myself and definitely notice the difference between a light (fast?) Bike and a heavier cx or steel bike (which I've used on the moot).
Weight makes a difference and is the difference between feeling tired on the 2nd day and feeling tired on the 5th day (if you're commuting daily for example)
Its not just weight, stiffness and 'racyness' (I know) of the bike may make a difference.
For such a long commute you'll probably be spending more time commuting then you will be leisure riding...so by all means gets the best you can afford and don't feel guilty about it.
Rose and canyon may be a good choice, I'm running a carbon trek domane disc which comes with fixed mudguard mounts. Unfortunately only 'endurance' style bikes seem to have both discs and proper mudguard mounts0 -
CookeeeMonster wrote:I do a long commute myself and definitely notice the difference between a light (fast?) Bike and a heavier cx or steel bike (which I've used on the moot).
Weight makes a difference and is the difference between feeling tired on the 2nd day and feeling tired on the 5th day (if you're commuting daily for example)
Its not just weight, stiffness and 'racyness' (I know) of the bike may make a difference.
For such a long commute you'll probably be spending more time commuting then you will be leisure riding...so by all means gets the best you can afford and don't feel guilty about it.
Rose and canyon may be a good choice, I'm running a carbon trek domane disc which comes with fixed mudguard mounts. Unfortunately only 'endurance' style bikes seem to have both discs and proper mudguard mounts
So if you put the following in to bike calculator:
200w, 80kg ride, 15kg bike, 10kph headwind and up a 1% grade you get a ride speed of ~23 kph and over 23 mies this is 1:42.
with a 5kg lighter bike but keeping the rest the same the power requirements drop by an almighty 5ws! Or to put it another way, arrive at work less than 1 minute later and you will have had an easier ride on the heavier bike.
The difference you notice is likely either psychological or because for one reason or another you are pushing harder. As another N+1, I don't notice the difference in fatigue between my heavy fixed gear bike or my lightweight titanium race bike.0 -
I would say that is slightly flawed unless you commute across pan flat countryside with no traffic lights.
If you are constantly stop - starting at lights and going up hills then if your bike is noticeably heavier and flexible then all of those sprints to get you up to speed will sap it out of you pretty quickly.
I would agree with the previous poster that if you are riding such a long distance each day (x2) then it sounds like a heck of a saving on public transport or a car, and if you want a new bike, then say so as there is no discouragement from spending money, just the sensible(ish) lot here want to make sure you aren't disillusioned with your purchase thinking you are going to save loads of time/energy. You'll probably just end up riding faster anyway!
This would be my bike of choice with Ultegra Di2 if I had the money to spend:
http://road.cc/content/review/240016-fa ... -strael-200 -
Shirley Basso wrote:I would say that is slightly flawed unless you commute across pan flat countryside with no traffic lights.
If you are constantly stop - starting at lights and going up hills then if your bike is noticeably heavier and flexible then all of those sprints to get you up to speed will sap it out of you pretty quickly.
I would agree with the previous poster that if you are riding such a long distance each day (x2) then it sounds like a heck of a saving on public transport or a car, and if you want a new bike, then say so as there is no discouragement from spending money, just the sensible(ish) lot here want to make sure you aren't disillusioned with your purchase thinking you are going to save loads of time/energy. You'll probably just end up riding faster anyway!
This would be my bike of choice with Ultegra Di2 if I had the money to spend:
http://road.cc/content/review/240016-fa ... -strael-20
Yes, I agree, I would like to take this opportunity to make clear that I am not saying you shouldn't buy the new bike; if you want to and have the money then go for it and enjoy it. I just want to make clear that it most likely won't make a difference to your speed in your commute unless its VERY hilly, we are talking a very small number of minutes. It would be much easier to just slow down by a couple of minutes if you are worried about fatigue and stress. I love buying new bikes, even when I don't need them so I'm all for, and understand, people wanting to buy new/more/shiny/fancy bikes0 -
blackstar500 wrote:Matthewfalle wrote:There is no wrong bike for a communt.
Train heavy race light.
I don't have any race bike or partake in any race ...
N+1 then.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
joey54321 wrote:CookeeeMonster wrote:I do a long commute myself and definitely notice the difference between a light (fast?) Bike and a heavier cx or steel bike (which I've used on the moot).
Weight makes a difference and is the difference between feeling tired on the 2nd day and feeling tired on the 5th day (if you're commuting daily for example)
Its not just weight, stiffness and 'racyness' (I know) of the bike may make a difference.
For such a long commute you'll probably be spending more time commuting then you will be leisure riding...so by all means gets the best you can afford and don't feel guilty about it.
Rose and canyon may be a good choice, I'm running a carbon trek domane disc which comes with fixed mudguard mounts. Unfortunately only 'endurance' style bikes seem to have both discs and proper mudguard mounts
So if you put the following in to bike calculator:
200w, 80kg ride, 15kg bike, 10kph headwind and up a 1% grade you get a ride speed of ~23 kph and over 23 mies this is 1:42.
with a 5kg lighter bike but keeping the rest the same the power requirements drop by an almighty 5ws! Or to put it another way, arrive at work less than 1 minute later and you will have had an easier ride on the heavier bike.
The difference you notice is likely either psychological or because for one reason or another you are pushing harder. As another N+1, I don't notice the difference in fatigue between my heavy fixed gear bike or my lightweight titanium race bike.
As someone else mentioned, add 20 - 30 sets of traffic lights plus traffic, hills, peds walking out, junctions, ped crossings so on and so forth and as the pros say...matches get burnt.
If you're happy to gently roll from the line as opposed to blasting away all the time then this is negated, but honestly in the centre of london I prefer to get the hell out of the way of cars when pulling away at lights and then quickly take my position on the road.0 -
CookeeeMonster wrote:joey54321 wrote:CookeeeMonster wrote:I do a long commute myself and definitely notice the difference between a light (fast?) Bike and a heavier cx or steel bike (which I've used on the moot).
Weight makes a difference and is the difference between feeling tired on the 2nd day and feeling tired on the 5th day (if you're commuting daily for example)
Its not just weight, stiffness and 'racyness' (I know) of the bike may make a difference.
For such a long commute you'll probably be spending more time commuting then you will be leisure riding...so by all means gets the best you can afford and don't feel guilty about it.
Rose and canyon may be a good choice, I'm running a carbon trek domane disc which comes with fixed mudguard mounts. Unfortunately only 'endurance' style bikes seem to have both discs and proper mudguard mounts
So if you put the following in to bike calculator:
200w, 80kg ride, 15kg bike, 10kph headwind and up a 1% grade you get a ride speed of ~23 kph and over 23 mies this is 1:42.
with a 5kg lighter bike but keeping the rest the same the power requirements drop by an almighty 5ws! Or to put it another way, arrive at work less than 1 minute later and you will have had an easier ride on the heavier bike.
The difference you notice is likely either psychological or because for one reason or another you are pushing harder. As another N+1, I don't notice the difference in fatigue between my heavy fixed gear bike or my lightweight titanium race bike.
As someone else mentioned, add 20 - 30 sets of traffic lights plus traffic, hills, peds walking out, junctions, ped crossings so on and so forth and as the pros say...matches get burnt.
If you're happy to gently roll from the line as opposed to blasting away all the time then this is negated, but honestly in the centre of london I prefer to get the hell out of the way of cars when pulling away at lights and then quickly take my position on the road.
Yes, you are right, of course. If you do 30 all out sprints in 23 miles you will get tired, though I would argue doing 30 all out sprints on a slightly lighter bike will also fatigue you.0 -
Sounds like the main problem is that you just have quite a long commute - there's nothing stopping you going to three times a week though, that's very achievable.
Chunky tyres aren't great IMHO for commutes, as commutes tend to involve a lot of stopping and starting in queues and traffic - I find it's hard work getting them up to speed after each interruption. I personally wouldn't want bigger than 700x28 unless I was doing some off road/gravel bits.0