Single speed 110bcd chainring
MissedTheBreak
Posts: 173
I’m looking at converting my old road bike into a singlespeed as an alternative winter bike (I have an entirely flat commute).
However, I’ll only do it if I can get it done on the cheap having just bought a new bike. I have £20 credit from PlanetX which mostly covers the converter kit, chain and chain tensioner so all I need is the chainring. I’m planning on using the existing cranks (a triple) but cannot find a singlespeed chainring to fit it with 110bcd.
Has anyone else done this and found anything that works?
Thanks
However, I’ll only do it if I can get it done on the cheap having just bought a new bike. I have £20 credit from PlanetX which mostly covers the converter kit, chain and chain tensioner so all I need is the chainring. I’m planning on using the existing cranks (a triple) but cannot find a singlespeed chainring to fit it with 110bcd.
Has anyone else done this and found anything that works?
Thanks
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Comments
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Both Bike24 and r2-bike sell them. I recently bought a 1x narrow-wide chainring in 110BCD from r2-bike:
https://r2-bike.com/5-Arm-Spider_2__1-speed0 -
Not really sure what you mean by a 'single speed chainring'. Assuming you are using 3/32, then any 110bcd road chainring will do.0
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if the chainle is good any chain ring will do. i have done this with mtbs for years.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Thanks. Having done a bit more research I think it may actually be 130 bcd for the big and middle rings on a triple. Either way, is there no requirement for a special singlespeed chainring? I thought you needed one without the shifting ramps to stop the chain jumping off? Also, what chain size is recommended, is 3/32 typical?
Thanks0 -
If you buy a single speed chain and your chain line is good then you ought to get away with your existing chainrings.0
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Words of warning on the chain tensioner - assuming you are looking at this type - http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FSOOSSD/on ... -tensioner
If you wish to use this type then you will almost certainly need to convert it from push-down to push-up (so it pushes the chain towards the chainstay instead of pushing it down away from it.)
In push down configuration you'll probably find that there isn't enough chain wrapped around the rear cog and the gear slips.
Unfortunately in push up configuration you'll probably find you need to use a half-link chain to get the length right.
Better option I found was to use a cheap/old rear derailleur and just preset it to the position that suits where the rear cog is (with a very short length of gear cable or the limit screws).0