Wheel hub bearing puller

londoncommuter
londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
edited April 2018 in Workshop
I'm due to swap the dodgy bearings on my front Fulcrum Racing Sport DB wheel this weekend and was pondering a makeshift bearing puller. I guess there's not a lot of need as I could knock out with a hammer and drift but there is a slim chance the bearings are fine so if I could get them out without wrecking them then all the better. No bad thing if I keep my hub shell nice and undamaged as well.

Not worth buying a proper tool but I've seen mention of using wall anchors. Would this do the trick:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-shie ... pack/4516g


The bearing is 18/30/7 ID/OD/width.

Is it the right width to pass through the inner?
Is the washer on the top sufficiently wide to not pass through the inner?
Is there enough room behind the bearing for the expandable bit to expand (length and width in the hub)?
Will knocking this out with a drift actually save the bearing much grief?

New to this completely so don't worry about abuse if I've got the wrong end of the stick.

Would be a bonus if I could also use it for other bearings in the future so is this size still right for those with smaller ID?

Many thanks

Comments

  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,500
    if you have to apply any significant impact to the inner race it's likely that the bearing will be damaged

    if you can remove the outer seal of a bearing you can see if it looks corroded, if it looks ok use a solvent spray to flush out old grease, then you can feel for any roughness as you rotate it, if it's smooth, squish some grease in and put back the seal, if it's rough knock it out and replace
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Knock the old bearings out and replace with new bearings. Bearings are cheap enough.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • 3wheeler
    3wheeler Posts: 110
    I don't think this method or knocking it out with a drift would leave you with a bearing worth putting back in. If you go to the effort of taking the old one out, put a new one in.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • bondurant
    bondurant Posts: 858
    On a similar note can anyone recommend a well-priced, reliable universal hub bearing press?
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    Thanks everyone and it's a fair point that they're probably not worth saving (BTW cheaper at Tweeks at £5). Always fun to learn new maintenance tricks but I guess it's not worth the effort here.

    Complete aside but cheap Fulcrum/Campag wheels are so shoddy. These are around a year old, have done maybe 2,500 miles and have hardly even gotten wet. No degreaser/pressure washer has been anywhere near them. They've been wobbly for months as well so even this is a huge over estimate. The fact they're a slightly unusual size and £5 rather than £2 a bearing just adds insult to injury.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,230
    It seems to me you are trying to solve a problem without actually knowing what the problem is. Once you remove the hub cap, it will be pretty obvious if the bearing needs replacement or not. When they are not smooth, or even worse when they have vertical play, they are shot. Lateral play can be due to other reasons, which might involve hub caps not being closed/locked/screwed correctly
    left the forum March 2023
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    It seems to me you are trying to solve a problem without actually knowing what the problem is. Once you remove the hub cap, it will be pretty obvious if the bearing needs replacement or not. When they are not smooth, or even worse when they have vertical play, they are shot. Lateral play can be due to other reasons, which might involve hub caps not being closed/locked/screwed correctly

    It's my first time with discs and they've rubbed from day 1 and no amount of straightening the calipers has eliminated it without it coming back. I tightened the hub pre-load collar as much as you can but this never completely get rid of the side to side play in the wheel which I think caused the rubbing.

    It's now got a lot worse. Other than bearings what could it be?

    I guess that's why I kind of started this thread as if there was a chance the bearings aren't to blame it would have been good not to trash them.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,230
    I never looked at bearings as a possible cause of disc rub... typically it is the caliper that slighlty moves, regardless of how tight you bolt it. The side by side play should disappear once you are on the bike, might just be there when there is no load.

    When bearings are worn, they feel rough... if you turn the axle and it is smooth, then it's not a bearing problem
    left the forum March 2023
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    I tightened the hub pre-load collar as much as you can but this never completely get rid of the side to side play in the wheel which I think caused the rubbing.

    If you added too much pre-load this will be why the bearings have failed prematurely.
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    A not overly exciting follow up but slightly rough bearings replaced, pre-load collar snug but not too tight, pads prised apart and calipers re-centered. No wheel wobble or brake rub to report. Fingers crossed that's cracked it.