r8000 rear mech and wheel removal

hellfire15
hellfire15 Posts: 19
edited October 2019 in Workshop
Just had a new rear mech fitted r8000 to replace the previous Ultegra 6800, the bike is a Canyon Ultimate, now my LBS fitted it and it works fine however the other day I had to remove the rear wheel to change an inner tube and boy was it a right pain getting the rear wheel off. Now I know the new mech site further inboard than previous versions but surely Shimano should'nt have made is harder to remove the rear wheel.

I am changing to the smallest and the back and its still a pain.

Wondered if anyone else has this issue with the r8000 mech.

Comments

  • supermurph09
    supermurph09 Posts: 2,471
    hellfire15 wrote:
    Just had a new rear mech fitted r8000 to replace the previous Ultegra 6800, the bike is a Canyon Ultimate, now my LBS fitted it and it works fine however the other day I had to remove the rear wheel to change an inner tube and boy was it a right pain getting the rear wheel off. Now I know the new mech site further inboard than previous versions but surely Shimano should'nt have made is harder to remove the rear wheel.

    I am changing to the smallest and the back and its still a pain.

    Wondered if anyone else has this issue with the r8000 mech.

    I've posted similar on the Road Buying advice forum, I'm in the same position, changed from 6800, also have Canyon Ultimate.
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  • rwoofer
    rwoofer Posts: 222
    Yes experienced the same myself. Much harder to remove and replace wheel.
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    I find I have to manipulate the rear derailleur with my R8050 to get the wheel in and out. I can't just drop the wheel on to the cassette when re-installing like with my SRAM groupset. Added issue of the R8050 is it won't go into the smallest sprocket whilst in the inner ring.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • siddy1972
    siddy1972 Posts: 180
    Do you have the correct outer cable between frame and rear mech?
    It’s a special super flexible outer (OT-RS900 from memory) that the new road shadow rear mechs need.
    Without this, wheel installation is trickier, and shifting not optimal.
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,182
    Does this derraileur have the clutch mechanism? If so then disengage by shifting the lever on the derailleur before moving?
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Mad_Malx wrote:
    Does this derraileur have the clutch mechanism?
    No :D
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    siddy1972 wrote:
    Do you have the correct outer cable between frame and rear mech?
    It’s a special super flexible outer (OT-RS900 from memory) that the new road shadow rear mechs need.
    Without this, wheel installation is trickier, and shifting not optimal.

    Di2 doesn't have a cable.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • siddy1972
    siddy1972 Posts: 180
    OP said R8000. That’s mechanical.
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    siddy1972 wrote:
    OP said R8000. That’s mechanical.

    Yes and I pointed out earlier that it is the same with R8050.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • RobinB2
    RobinB2 Posts: 111
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    yup - its cack and fiddly.

    the S3 has factory fitted ultegra with all the standard cables and its a fiddly faff.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • hadoken
    hadoken Posts: 29
    i have the same issue but with my Cube, thought it was just me being incompetent! I got the wheel off ok, but was a right pita to put back!
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    RobinB2 wrote:
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.

    B0llocks. Is this unique to the new geometry road RDs or is it all Shadow type mechs? I've just fitted a Shadow type Alivio RD to my winter bike with guards. Am I likely to suffer the same issues? Don't think I've had to remove / replace the rear wheel since fitting the RD. Perhaps I'd better give it a try in the warm & dry, before having to do it for real in the cold, wet and dark which normally accompanies a rear puncture...
  • i.bhamra
    i.bhamra Posts: 304
    It's not that big a deal. Argee, not as simple as the older mechs that sit further out from the frame but just do it once and you then know the best method for next time - make sure chain is on smallest sprocket, rotate mech body a little to move the cage away from sprockets and wheel comes right out. Same for getting it back in....
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    I'm glad it is not just me then.
    I only got the wheel back on by unclipping the chain.
    Wheel went back on no drama.
    How the hell are they doing it out on the road switching a punctured wheel? Ok, not Ultegra but 9000 Dura Ace - being the same design.
    There has to be a hack.
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    keef66 wrote:
    RobinB2 wrote:
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.

    B0llocks. Is this unique to the new geometry road RDs or is it all Shadow type mechs? I've just fitted a Shadow type Alivio RD to my winter bike with guards. Am I likely to suffer the same issues? Don't think I've had to remove / replace the rear wheel since fitting the RD. Perhaps I'd better give it a try in the warm & dry, before having to do it for real in the cold, wet and dark which normally accompanies a rear puncture...
    Jeez, what are you lot moaning about?
    It's just Shimano's way of getting you to buy the new 8100 next year.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    keef66 wrote:
    RobinB2 wrote:
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.

    B0llocks. Is this unique to the new geometry road RDs or is it all Shadow type mechs? I've just fitted a Shadow type Alivio RD to my winter bike with guards. Am I likely to suffer the same issues? Don't think I've had to remove / replace the rear wheel since fitting the RD. Perhaps I'd better give it a try in the warm & dry, before having to do it for real in the cold, wet and dark which normally accompanies a rear puncture...
    Jeez, what are you lot moaning about?
    It's just Shimano's way of getting you to buy the new 8100 next year.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    JGSI wrote:
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    keef66 wrote:
    RobinB2 wrote:
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.

    B0llocks. Is this unique to the new geometry road RDs or is it all Shadow type mechs? I've just fitted a Shadow type Alivio RD to my winter bike with guards. Am I likely to suffer the same issues? Don't think I've had to remove / replace the rear wheel since fitting the RD. Perhaps I'd better give it a try in the warm & dry, before having to do it for real in the cold, wet and dark which normally accompanies a rear puncture...
    Jeez, what are you lot moaning about?
    It's just Shimano's way of getting you to buy the new 8100 next year.


    But will there be another mechanical group set iteration?
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    i.bhamra wrote:
    It's not that big a deal. Argee, not as simple as the older mechs that sit further out from the frame but just do it once and you then know the best method for next time - make sure chain is on smallest sprocket, rotate mech body a little to move the cage away from sprockets and wheel comes right out. Same for getting it back in....

    Exactly right.....
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    keef66 wrote:
    RobinB2 wrote:
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.

    B0llocks. Is this unique to the new geometry road RDs or is it all Shadow type mechs? I've just fitted a Shadow type Alivio RD to my winter bike with guards. Am I likely to suffer the same issues? Don't think I've had to remove / replace the rear wheel since fitting the RD. Perhaps I'd better give it a try in the warm & dry, before having to do it for real in the cold, wet and dark which normally accompanies a rear puncture...
    Jeez, what are you lot moaning about?
    It's just Shimano's way of getting you to buy the new 8100 next year.


    If the design continues as it is it’s enough to make people buy Ultegra etc - it’s not like it’s so far ahead in performance terms that it’s the only option.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Matthewfalle wrote:
    darkhairedlord wrote:
    keef66 wrote:
    RobinB2 wrote:
    Even more difficult to remove the rear wheel when you've got mudguards fitted and you don't have so many options as to where you can move the wheel. I'm not sure the flexible cable would make much difference as the cable outer doesn't seem to be constraining the movement of the rear mech that much. Nice one Shimano - I'm really looking forward to having to faff about with this when I get a puncture on a cold, wet ride.

    B0llocks. Is this unique to the new geometry road RDs or is it all Shadow type mechs? I've just fitted a Shadow type Alivio RD to my winter bike with guards. Am I likely to suffer the same issues? Don't think I've had to remove / replace the rear wheel since fitting the RD. Perhaps I'd better give it a try in the warm & dry, before having to do it for real in the cold, wet and dark which normally accompanies a rear puncture...
    Jeez, what are you lot moaning about?
    It's just Shimano's way of getting you to buy the new 8100 next year.


    If the design continues as it is it’s enough to make people buy Ultegra etc - it’s not like it’s so far ahead in performance terms that it’s the only option.
    If it was way ahead there would be no need to sell you a better one next year.

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