My chain is slipping?

yadnom1973

My chain was slipping so I bought a new one and found that the old one, which had been on there for ages, was really stretched out of shape. As soon as the new one was on it stared slipping much worse and was effectively unrideable.
I took it too the bike shop and they explained that the back cassette would also be buggered if the chain was that bad so I picked up a new one and put that on and at first I thought it was all fixed but then it slipped on me again and I came off the bike.

It’s not slipping like before. I have to put a lot of force on the pedal but when I do there’s a chance it’ll slip. It’s been very hard to catch it in the act as it happens so rarely. Standing up on the bike and accelerating away quickly or climbing a big hill is a gamble and I’ve lost all confidence in the bike after the accident but I have to cycle about every day so have developed this nervous way of cycling with very slow acceleration and no sudden jolts on the chain.

So it’s got a new cassette and a new chain that I’ve removed (I think) three links from. The old chain was so stretched that when I installed the new one I had to measure it by putting it round the two biggest sprockets minus one complete link. When it was still slipping I removed another link and then another before I gave up and rolled it to the bike shop.

What else could be coursing it to slip now? Should I remove another link or will the chain become too short? I’ve attached some pictures of the chain to see if anyone can judge if there’s room to remove another link and also some close ups of the crankset but I’m pretty sure it’s slipping on the rear cassette and to me the crankset looks in decent shape but then I’m no expert so maybe I’m wrong.

https://image.ibb.co/i8cShx/Chain_1e.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/hxdB9c/Chain_2e.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/fonhFH/Chain_3e.jpg

cooldad

When you measure, it should be big/big plus a link, not minus.

drlodge

That chain is dirty considering its new...if its slipping on a new cassette I'd be looking at alignment of the rear derailleur and make sure its trimmed properly.

With regards to chain length, just count the number of links on the old chain and set your new chain to the same number. You don't want fewer links!!

i.bhamra

Is it slipping specifically on one of the chainrings? From the pictures they don't look too worn but can't see all the teeth/rings clearly as pictured.

If your chain was as worn as you suggest it's possible there is some damage to one or more chainrings which is causing the different type of slipping you are now experiencing with the new chain and cassette.

As mentioned above, continuing to shorten the chain won't fix your problem! You may already have gone too far.....

dee4life2005

i.bhamra wrote:

Is it slipping specifically on one of the chainrings? From the pictures they don't look too worn but can't see all the teeth/rings clearly as pictured.

If your chain was as worn as you suggest it's possible there is some damage to one or more chainrings which is causing the different type of slipping you are now experiencing with the new chain and cassette.

As mentioned above, continuing to shorten the chain won't fix your problem! You may already have gone too far.....

Usually if you're getting slipping after a new chain it'll be the cassette, but if fitting a new cassette doesn't sort it then there is a strong chance it's one or more of the chain-rings that also need replacing.

I had a triple chainset on an old bike, and mainly spent time in the big ring (flat commute) ... after a new chain/cassette I still had slippage under power, mainly when accelerating from lights or up steeper gradients. One time it slipped off and I nearly had an accident but managed to just hold it but did result in a twisted chain (after only 2 miles from new!). Fitting a new chainring sorted the problem immediately.

When looking at the teeth on the chainring it didn't look particularly bad in my case ... but it doesn't necessarily take much. It's likely it's only slipping in one chainring, and if it is I'd take a close look at that, as you may need to have it replaced - especially so if the shifting was working with the old chain and you've not touched anything else shifting wise.

The teeth on the middle chain ring look a little on the pointy side ... is it that chainring you're getting slippage on by any chance?

yadnom1973

The rear dérailleur is not attached to to a cable at the moment and it looks to be aligned just fine. The cable broke and I’ve been more concerned about solving this problem first. How that would make the chain slip? It’s not jumping for one sprocket/gear to another it’s slipping on the sprocket.

I’ll replace the cable now though and re-check the alignment.

Maybe I’ve remembered it wrong. I followed a couple of you tube videos on chain measurement then removed links after when it was still slipping. I don’t have the old chain any more so I don’t know how many links there were.

The chainrings are the sprockets on the crankset as far as I understand? I felt sure the slipping was at the rear, but maybe I’m confused. If the chains new and the cassette is new then that’s the only thing left I guess? Which ring it is though I could not say but your story sounds very familiar dee4life2005. When it slipped and I came off I was luck to be on a quiet empty road but if I’d been belting through tragic it could have been the end of me.

The problem is that it only happen with a lot of force so even trying to repeat the problem is kind of nerve racking and it’s difficult to look down as I’m doing it.

webboo

How did you join the chain

yadnom1973

That was informative, the poor back dérailleur looked like it was going to make it all the way to the crankset. I’ll need a new chain it seems.

I think I’m going to set up a little clamp to hold a Gopro looking at the chainrings, see if I can catch it in the act and if it’ is the chainrings, find out who exactly is to blame. I reckon it’s the middle one.

The chain came with one of those little clip together links, I’ve got a few of them knocking about somewhere and I could Frankenstein a longer chain together with those but I’m not sure if it’s a good idea and new chains don’t cost much.

yadnom1973

I guess that’s as far as it goes for now. Thanks for the help to everyone who took the time and if anyone drops by and knows if using more than one chain link connector thing to make a chain bigger is a bad idea that would still be of interest to me.

cooldad

I've used more than one plenty of times. No problem.

drlodge

If the rear derailleur cable is stretched or somehow the RD is slightly out of alignment towards the smaller sprocket on the cassette, the chain will slip under pressure as it rides up over the sprocket.

craker

I'm in the same boat - I've just changed my chain, cassette and jockey wheels and it can jump under load.

Some things to try -
* Adjust the B-adjustment screw on the mech. I've screwed mine all the way in to change the gap between the jockey wheels and the cassette.. seems a bit better
* Buy more expensive gear. My problem is a really cheap KMC chain and a low range Shimano cassette. Or possibly the new BBB jockey wheels. Hell, it could be anything.
* Give it some time. Let the cassette and chain mesh a little. I've never had to do this before tho (see the point above).

keef66

If you've fitted a new chain and cassette and it's jumping under power, chances are it's the chainring that's worn. You must know which chainring(s) you're using when it happens? No need to bother with a GoPro just to record your testicles hitting the top tube yet again, just replace the suspect chainrings and see how you go

yadnom1973

The Gopro was more to check it was the chain rings I’m pretty convinced it was at the back wheel but with anew cassette and chain thought it had to be the chain rings but now cracker and drlodge are talking about how the course could be the rear dérailleur I’m more suspicious of that, I’ve just put a new cable in and it looks like it might be a bit skew whiff but I’ll need to find or make a new/longer chain before I can start tuning it.

noodleman

With all due respect I think you need to let your lbs fit the new parts. From your story so far it sounds like you'll save time, money and possibly injury.

Vino'sGhost

check the hanger

yadnom1973

I don't think there’s a hanger on these steel Charger frames, dérailleur attaches to the frame. I’ll go over the dérailleur alignment before trying again though. Just putting a chain together first.

keef66

yadnom1973 wrote:

I don't think there’s a hanger on these steel Charger frames, dérailleur attaches to the frame. I’ll go over the dérailleur alignment before trying again though. Just putting a chain together first.

You still need to check the alignment of the hanger. The big plus for a steel frame is you can bend it back into alignment without fear or it snapping.

A hanger alignment tool may seem like overkill for a DIY mechanic but even a cheap and cheerful one is a good investment.

My money's still on chain rings, possibly as a result of allowing the chain to wear too far before replacement.

craker

I've swapped out my bottom of the range KMC 9 speed chain (£10) for a decent SRAM 971 (£17) and can confirm that the new chain works a treat.

I've got a horrible habit of buying cheap sh*t, regretting it and replacing it with something worth the cash; this is one of those times.

kingofthetailwind

Are you sure your chain is slipping? You could have sticky pawls in your freehub. That can feel like the chain is slipping.

pilot_pete

Judging by the literny of problems and possibilities it sounds like this bike has suffered from a complete lack of maintenance until such point that everything has become problematic. Learning how to do simple, regular maintenance can prevent such issues. For example, learning how to check a chain for wear can reap huge rewards and prevent damage to other components longer term and prevent possible injury.

Having a few of those ‘chain link clip things knocking about’ and fitting one without checking compatibility could also cause you problems. For example fitting a 9 speed link to a 10 speed chain etc could certainly cause issues and possible jumping.

My money is on worn chain ring, but as others have said, checking hanger alignment and derailleur alignment/ adjustment would be a start.

With all due respect though, I’m with Noodleman and feel that on this occasion you might be better off getting a qualified mechanic to have a look. Get them to give it the once over and quote you for the work before getting them to sort it as it could be quite expensive - the chances are they are going to suggest changing every part that is so badly maintained! This actually makes sense as labour costs are then relatively lower than them spending hours trying to get worn out bits to work properly...

PP