Replacing jockey wheels m6000 rear mech

kirkee
kirkee Posts: 369
edited March 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
Ive replaced the lower pulley wheel easily, I see that to replace the upper is not so. Anyone got any tips on how to do it? It looks like its going to involve alot of stripping out bits near the clutch area. Id rather not get a new one yet theyre almost £50. Its an M6000 deore shadow plus 10 spd, thanks. The lower had took most wear so at least thats sorted.
Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will

Comments

  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,171
    Are you sure?

    There are two bolts holding the cage and jockey wheels.

    Bolt head for lower is accessed from outer side, the upper on the inner side.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    What he said ^^^^^^
    I don't do smileys.

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  • kirkee
    kirkee Posts: 369
    Cheers it may be a case of me looking but not seeing, il re check thanks.
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    You may have to pivot the cage forwards to access the upper jockey wheel bolt. Disengage the clutch to do so.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The bolt head on the wheel side can often get covered in waste chain lube and not be readily visible, you may need to wipe it down with a piece of kitchen towel or similar.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    If you search you can get a pair of sealed stainless steel bearing tacx jockey wheels for 15 quid if you look that will be compatible with your derailleur.

    yep as already said clean it up and you will find the bolts to undo the cage from the derailleur.
  • kirkee
    kirkee Posts: 369
    Thanks for the info, the stainless wheels make sense. I see the mtb wears kit out quickly! Im a roadie to mtb'er. Lots to learn still!
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    kirkee wrote:
    Thanks for the info, the stainless wheels make sense. I see the mtb wears kit out quickly! Im a roadie to mtb'er. Lots to learn still!

    Only if you do a lot of miles and i mean a lot as the wheels are made of resin a hard plastic that are resist to wear.

    I've just bought some new ones and gone for the tacx stainless steel bearing option, these look easier to clean as not slots holes in them.
  • kirkee
    kirkee Posts: 369
    Both swapped over now as advised, thanks. The wheels was were fairly trashed into sharp pointed spikes and had excessive side play movement so i thought id best change them. My mtb rides are 80 % wet and or muddy its hardly ever dry is it! no surprise really with the abrasive crap build up on parts etc theyl wear fast, will look at the stainless ones next time i need some.
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will

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