Di2 battery fail, attempted new battery - no connection :-(

sebbyp

Hi all,
Struggling to fix my Scott foil 2017, di2 ultegra 6870.
Battery not been holding charge very well lately, went to go out the door and it was flat again only after an 80mile ride last weekend.
Got one of the new dn110 batteries here, removed seatpost, pulled old battery old inserted new one, connected it up, put seatpost back in etc.
now it wont recognise either battery and no light on Junction box. likely I have damaged the wire I guess or pulled the connector out of the bottom junction box in the frame (dont think so)
so whipped the rubber cover off bottom of BB, then cried, as it looks like the bb shell is in the way of any decent acces to the junction box. wtf? a pointless access cover!
Think its a PF86 BB. have I got to drift the twat out or what? and ideas appreciated! never failed to do a job on the bike but this could be a LBS job, gutted.
will try to get some pics

pilot_pete

Have you plugged it all in to your pc and opened the e-Tube software and updated everything to the latest firmware? That’s the first thing I’d do. If you have a bad connection components won’t show up I’d guess!

To get to your junction B can you not just remove the crank and see if the BB is sleeved or not? If not you should be able to get to the junction box, if it is you may have to remove the BB. What crank is it?

PP

sebbyp

Hi PP,
firmware most likely up to date as only charged it and updated a few weeks ago.
Etube wont let me do much as you have to do connection check first and it says master unit not connected (battery), but recognises everything else. Think I must have pinched the battery wire with the seat post :-(

Its just an ultegra 6800 crank so easy to get off, but yes its in a sleeved BB which is blocking access. Im playing with the bike now and can even see the junction box! throught the access port but doubt I'm going to be able to get it out past the bb sleeve.
I know I can just drift the bb bearings & cups out with the park tool (which I dont have) but it will destroy the BB :-(

pilot_pete

sebbyp wrote:

Hi PP,
firmware most likely up to date as only charged it and updated a few weeks ago.
Etube wont let me do much as you have to do connection check first and it says master unit not connected (battery), but recognises everything else. Think I must have pinched the battery wire with the seat post :-(

Its just an ultegra 6800 crank so easy to get off, but yes its in a sleeved BB which is blocking access. Im playing with the bike now and can even see the junction box! throught the access port but doubt I'm going to be able to get it out past the bb sleeve.
I know I can just drift the bb bearings & cups out with the park tool (which I dont have) but it will destroy the BB :-(

Ahh, I see. If you cannot get the Junction B past the BB sleeve in situ then I guess you have little choice but to remove the BB. I’m guessing there is no way of getting the battery wire out of the junction B in situ and putting a new one in without removing the junction B? Long shot I guess...

Is there any way you could relocate the junction B somewhere that you can get to it once you refit your BB for future easier access? Maybe in the seat tube? Might need longer wires though so not a cheap solution.

PP

weezyswiss

sebbyp wrote:

Think I must have pinched the battery wire with the seat post :-(

I did this. Check the wiring as I found it was very easy to pinch and cut the thin wire

sebbyp

oh my god! this bike is killing me.
got the park tool for removing the bb and whacked one side out fine, middle joining tube fell out so can access wiring. However can't for the life of me knock the other side out, think someone has loctited the cup in! going to start another thread for that! hacksaw job I reckon. so another FAIL

Popped the junction box out the bottom, disconnected the suspected faulty battery wire, stole a di2 wire from the left shifter, plugged it in then the old battery, still nothing, tried the new battery...nothing...? not recognizing master unit in etube software. even plugged the battery into the a juction instead of the left shifter. nothing.
any ideas?

What is the most basic setup that etube will recognise? junction A straight to battery with nothing else connected?
I have a brand new bar end junction box so later may attempt laptop to bar end junction to battery! arghhh!

mike1-2

Have you tried unplugging the battery and leaving it for a while before reconnecting? I had the same issue as you when I had a failed update over Bluetooth, no lights, no shifts, nothing. However after unplugging the battery and leaving it circa ten minutes it came back to life.

ben@31

Mike wrote:

Have you tried unplugging the battery and leaving it for a while before reconnecting? I had the same issue as you when I had a failed update over Bluetooth, no lights, no shifts, nothing. However after unplugging the battery and leaving it circa ten minutes it came back to life.

I had a similar problem as the above, earlier today.
After a LBS decided to update the firmware for me (without asking) which completely and utterly f*cked it, the derailleurs stopped working. The button on the junction A box did nothing and then his laptop reckoned no derailleurs were fitted to the bike!

I fixed this by unplugging all the Di2 cables... from both derailleurs and from the shifters to the junction A box and then plugging them back in again. Then using my mobile phone and the E-Tube app to update over Bluetooth (to use Bluetooth your groupset needs a D-Fly part installed, the part number is EW -WU111)

sebbyp

Turns out...the first time I took the seatpost out to get to the suspected faulty battery, the di2 wire came off the battery too easily. I think it has never been fully clicked home. It was very easy to just put the wire on the battery & think it was connected. I assumed this was normal but wasnt impressed with the connection.
It was only when I started taking wires off the b Junction and replacing them and also looking at a few di2 threads online, I noticed they had a lovely click home. The battery should be the same I thought. Sure enough just put lots more pressure on the battery connector and it finally clicked in!

Luckily butchering the bike was not in vain, as Im upgrading the handlebars to some carbon integrated stem & bars with the new bar end junction box, and had to have the BB out anyway to fit the Bluetooth d-fly WU111 and extend the junction A to junction B wire. Also the BB had done 11K KM and I've got a Crank based powermeter sitting here that is EVO386 that was for the TT bike but will now fit the FSA MR158 - BB86 to EVO386 adaptor and have power on the road bike.

Re: getting the stuck bb86 cup out of the frame, started with a hacksaw but 10seconds later hit the bearing which was clearly hardened steel, so chipped the plastic off the bearing case and the lip off the back of the cup, then was going to hit the bearing out with the park tool and saw through the plastic cup. when i tried to drift the bearing out the cup popped out too. job done.

noodleman

And they say di2 is better than mechanical! I love mine when it works but I've had no end of trouble with dodgy connections, faulty batteries and water getting in the system. I know others have had no problems at all but for me it's e-tap every day of the week.

mike1-2

noodleman wrote:

And they say di2 is better than mechanical! I love mine when it works but I've had no end of trouble with dodgy connections, faulty batteries and water getting in the system. I know others have had no problems at all but for me it's e-tap every day of the week.

You can’t slag off di2 when it was user error

StillGoing

sebbyp wrote:

Luckily butchering the bike was not in vain, as Im upgrading the handlebars to some carbon integrated stem & bars with the new bar end junction box, and had to have the BB out anyway to fit the Bluetooth d-fly WU111 and extend the junction A to junction B wire.

You didn't need to go to that trouble. The RS910 bar end junction A needs a short wire to the right hand shifter. A single wire from R to L shifter. A long wire from the L shifter to junction B in the BB area. Leads to your F & R derailleurs and a lead to the battery. You can mount the D-Fly unit between the battery and junction B and it works fine.

For carbon bars with integral cabling, I warn you it is a b4stard to get the wires through. In the end, I used a cut off of a gear cable outer. Made a bodge Di2 tool as in the second video and threaded that through the cable outer, ferule end last, removed the cable outer and gentle guided the etube through the bars.

https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k

https://youtu.be/ks42F8sVJoI

sebbyp

I agree that di2 is much better than mechanical. It's not missed a beat for 6500miles till now.

Cheers Philthy - It dindnt look like the current long wire installed from A to B junction would be long enough to reach the left hand shifter and still enable the B juction to be pulled out the BB for maintenance, so I stole the LH shifter wire (350mm) and installed that and the d-fly to extend said wire. Then I have purchased a 650 wire to go from shifter to shifter and was intending to use the other original 350 shifter wire to go from RH shifter to bar end, albeit the wire will be too long.
I like the way Shimno tell you not to installed the D-fly internally, yet everyone does. Getting the E-tube phone app to update the D-fly software on the other hand was a bit of a bitch, It did as someone mentioned crash half way through the update and kill the Di2 completely. I disconnected the battery for a bit and 2nd time lucky it worked.

With regard to the bar routing, its the proper 2017 onwards Syncros bar that is newly designed for use with a bar end juction box I believe. So it shoud be doable eventually, will find out new week when my brother bring the bars to me from the USA!

StillGoing

Yeah my 3T Aeronova carbon bars are made for the internal bar end RS910, but it was a right pain threading the etube cables.