CAAD 12
gareth1234
Posts: 107
Advice fron CAAD owners before I take an angle grinder to it and buy an S-Works frameset!
I bought mine as a frameset, did some research beforehand and fitted the wheels manufacturing bb30 to 24mm as I wanted to fit my Dura Ace chainset. Worked well for 5 months before the dreaded creaking started, removed the WM B.B. and fitted cups with 24mm ceramic bearings, lasted 3 months before the creaking again, refitted a new WM and it lasted 10 days before it all started up again, all these were fitted with Loctite 641. As an attempt to finally silence it I’ve fitted the fsa sleeve with Loctite 609 and a Dura B.B. but it has made no difference to the creak. I’ve lubed the headset (bearings are good) front and rear dropouts, seatpost, rear mech hanger just to try and eliminate everything else.
I’m now wondering if the 24mm spindle on the cranks and the smaller diameter bearings just don’t suit this frame and it ‘needs’ the wider B.B.30 spindle.
I’m considering having some aluminium cups made and welded into the frame to hopefully finally silence the bloody thing
Anyone else had issues with the frame and found a solution?
I bought mine as a frameset, did some research beforehand and fitted the wheels manufacturing bb30 to 24mm as I wanted to fit my Dura Ace chainset. Worked well for 5 months before the dreaded creaking started, removed the WM B.B. and fitted cups with 24mm ceramic bearings, lasted 3 months before the creaking again, refitted a new WM and it lasted 10 days before it all started up again, all these were fitted with Loctite 641. As an attempt to finally silence it I’ve fitted the fsa sleeve with Loctite 609 and a Dura B.B. but it has made no difference to the creak. I’ve lubed the headset (bearings are good) front and rear dropouts, seatpost, rear mech hanger just to try and eliminate everything else.
I’m now wondering if the 24mm spindle on the cranks and the smaller diameter bearings just don’t suit this frame and it ‘needs’ the wider B.B.30 spindle.
I’m considering having some aluminium cups made and welded into the frame to hopefully finally silence the bloody thing
Anyone else had issues with the frame and found a solution?
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Comments
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gareth1234 wrote:Advice fron CAAD owners before I take an angle grinder to it and buy an S-Works frameset!
I bought mine as a frameset, did some research beforehand and fitted the wheels manufacturing bb30 to 24mm as I wanted to fit my Dura Ace chainset. Worked well for 5 months before the dreaded creaking started, removed the WM B.B. and fitted cups with 24mm ceramic bearings, lasted 3 months before the creaking again, refitted a new WM and it lasted 10 days before it all started up again, all these were fitted with Loctite 641. As an attempt to finally silence it I’ve fitted the fsa sleeve with Loctite 609 and a Dura B.B. but it has made no difference to the creak. I’ve lubed the headset (bearings are good) front and rear dropouts, seatpost, rear mech hanger just to try and eliminate everything else.
I’m now wondering if the 24mm spindle on the cranks and the smaller diameter bearings just don’t suit this frame and it ‘needs’ the wider B.B.30 spindle.
I’m considering having some aluminium cups made and welded into the frame to hopefully finally silence the bloody thing
Anyone else had issues with the frame and found a solution?
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topi ... -worth-it/
When you reassemble the BB, smear some bearing fit compound on the crankset axle where it fits inside the bearing inners. This will prevent the dreaded BB30 creak, which most people wrongly attribute to the bearings moving in the sleeves.
Worth a try if you haven't already.
Apparently creaking is a common issue with pressfit bottom brackets. The tolerances involved are much tighter and when these are not achieved during manufacturing, they can result in creaking.0 -
Had the same problem fitted three different bottom brackets all to no avail.
The cause, a lightweight not tight enough rear skewer, could not believe it, only checked it as a friend of mine overheard a conversation in Cadence cycle shop in Bath.0 -
The fsa adaptor is bonded to the frame and fitted with new duraace cups. The rear skewer has been changed, greased and the note of the creak doesn't change.
I'm currently trying to borrow a 24mm Shimano crankset to rule mine out of the equation, but my Dura is only 18 months old, so I'm not sure it's that.0 -
Only creaks I've had on mine have been sorted by undoing, and re-doing the rear skewer. BB has done 6 months or so including winter with no problems (using the Wheels 24mm cups and DA 9000 cranks).0
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Personally , my CAAD10 and previous to that another C'dale with BB30 , have done nearly 10 years problem free using that setup.
I liked the simplicity of it.
However, I did have one of those FSA adapters in the toolbox but never fitted it.
As part of a 2018 refresh I ordered a Praxis Zayante crankset with 4iiii. This needed a expensive BB30 adapter from Praxis to fit as it is threaded.
You can get a Praxis BB30 to 24 Shimano, but again it's about 70 quid.... expensive.
https://www.evanscycles.com/praxis-work ... m-EV190089
Plus point, these screw together - eliminating any possibility of a creak.
Your problem is now, drifting out that loctited FSA adapter -- good luck.0 -
gareth1234 wrote:Advice fron CAAD owners before I take an angle grinder to it and buy an S-Works frameset!
I bought mine as a frameset, did some research beforehand and fitted the wheels manufacturing bb30 to 24mm as I wanted to fit my Dura Ace chainset. Worked well for 5 months before the dreaded creaking started, removed the WM B.B. and fitted cups with 24mm ceramic bearings, lasted 3 months before the creaking again, refitted a new WM and it lasted 10 days before it all started up again, all these were fitted with Loctite 641. As an attempt to finally silence it I’ve fitted the fsa sleeve with Loctite 609 and a Dura B.B. but it has made no difference to the creak. I’ve lubed the headset (bearings are good) front and rear dropouts, seatpost, rear mech hanger just to try and eliminate everything else.
I’m now wondering if the 24mm spindle on the cranks and the smaller diameter bearings just don’t suit this frame and it ‘needs’ the wider B.B.30 spindle.
I’m considering having some aluminium cups made and welded into the frame to hopefully finally silence the bloody thing
Anyone else had issues with the frame and found a solution?
Out of interest which Wheels adaptor did you go for, the standard BB30 one?0 -
JGSI wrote:Personally , my CAAD10 and previous to that another C'dale with BB30 , have done nearly 10 years problem free using that setup.
I liked the simplicity of it.
However, I did have one of those FSA adapters in the toolbox but never fitted it.
As part of a 2018 refresh I ordered a Praxis Zayante crankset with 4iiii. This needed a expensive BB30 adapter from Praxis to fit as it is threaded.
You can get a Praxis BB30 to 24 Shimano, but again it's about 70 quid.... expensive.
https://www.evanscycles.com/praxis-work ... m-EV190089
Plus point, these screw together - eliminating any possibility of a creak.
Your problem is now, drifting out that loctited FSA adapter -- good luck.
Praxis only works if your frame is only slightly out of tolerance, I've spoken to them and they wouldn't guarantee the fit.
The wheels one I can press in with my hands and even tightened up it doesn't work, it only exerts lateral force not radial.
The FSA sleeve will press out, it's only 604 loctite not superglue0 -
Its scrap then0
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JGSI wrote:Its scrap then0
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banditvic wrote:Had the same problem fitted three different bottom brackets all to no avail.
The cause, a lightweight not tight enough rear skewer, could not believe it, only checked it as a friend of mine overheard a conversation in Cadence cycle shop in Bath.
3!!!!!!!!!!!!@!!11I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0 -
My BB started creaking on 5 or 6 occasions on my old winter CAAD10 and now my summer CAAD12.
Except that each time it turned out to be something else.....
I'm not saying that you don't have an issue, but I think a lot of people are quick to blame the BB for every noise.0 -
Singleton wrote:My BB started creaking on 5 or 6 occasions on my old winter CAAD10 and now my summer CAAD12.
Except that each time it turned out to be something else.....
I'm not saying that you don't have an issue, but I think a lot of people are quick to blame the BB for every noise.0 -
To quote Hambini, who make very fine bottom brackets -There is very little that can be done about misalignment without doing some sort of conversion or machining which is not for the feint of heart. Some bike frames are much more prone to misalignment than others. Cannondale, Boardman and Cervelo all suffer from (in my opinion) unacceptable levels of misalignment.Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
I bought a CAAD10, first thing I did was press and Loctite in an FSA BB30 > BSA converter. Then screwed in the GXP cups and assembled the chains. Never creaked once, perfect, but then why should it creak? It's now effectively a standard threaded BB, nothing to move, no alignment issues.
I would suggest that if you still suffering, then as suggested above, the problem lies elsewhere.0 -
My ole CAAD10 used to creak, I thought it was the praxis BB thing being rubbish. Stopped when I tightened one of the chainring bolts up. Cheaper than a new BB at least!0
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Have the disc one. Not had a creak on mine. It's a year old now, funny as it is the 2018 version?0
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gareth1234 wrote:Completely agree, I have greased everything just to isolate the bb area. It’s now either the bb shell itself or the crank spindle is out of alignment and somehow slightly bent/twisted and crushing down on bearings perhaps. Only get the noise at the bottom of the peddle stroke when it’s under the most strain.
At the risk of coming across as completely insulting (not my intent at all) but..... have you checked your cleats or tried different shoes or ridden in trainers?
I took mine into my LBS once convinced it was the BB and the mechanic ended up fixing the problem by greasing the rear skewer.0 -
Singleton wrote:gareth1234 wrote:Completely agree, I have greased everything just to isolate the bb area. It’s now either the bb shell itself or the crank spindle is out of alignment and somehow slightly bent/twisted and crushing down on bearings perhaps. Only get the noise at the bottom of the peddle stroke when it’s under the most strain.
At the risk of coming across as completely insulting (not my intent at all) but..... have you checked your cleats or tried different shoes or ridden in trainers?
I took mine into my LBS once convinced it was the BB and the mechanic ended up fixing the problem by greasing the rear skewer.
Yep, ridden in trainers, swapped pedals and skewers.0 -
I picked up a leftover 2017 which has time on the trainer as well as the road, no issues at all. I hope you work out the problem so you can enjoy this fantastic bike. Mine has a 105 groupset and upgraded with Mavic All Road wheels and Continental Grand Prix 4000S tires. The only thing I can compare to is my 2008 Scott Addict R3 which I adore. I must say, the ride quality, frame geometry and handling of the Caad 12 are superb. I now equate the Scott with a Poshe GT3 and the Cannondale with a Rolls Phantom.0
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Things I had creaks with when I rode a BB30 bike:
- Cleats
- Pedals
- Headset
- Seatpost
- Skewer
Every time without fail I went nuts at the BB30 for being rubbish.
Good luck finding the creak OP.0 -
Looking to buy a new bike. Is the CAAD12 the best bike for crit racing for around £1,500?
Or is there something else i should be looking at buying... (Kinesis Aithien/Bowman Palace R frame build up, Specialized allez sprint etc...?)0 -
Tarmac8 wrote:Looking to buy a new bike. Is the CAAD12 the best bike for crit racing for around £1,500?
Or is there something else i should be looking at buying... (Kinesis Aithien/Bowman Palace R frame build up, Specialized allez sprint etc...?)
It's deffo up there. depends on final specs once you add groupset/wheels etc.
Bowman Palce with deep rims as per my posts passim is utterly gorgeous though (for some reason I can't post pictures from Google anymore - tapping on the 3 dots doesn't bring up the direct link)
Alternatively, Mk 2 Planet X Team Superlight are very good as well.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:
It's deffo up there. depends on final specs once you add groupset/wheels etc.
Bowman Palce with deep rims as per my posts passim is utterly gorgeous though (for some reason I can't post pictures from Google anymore - tapping on the 3 dots doesn't bring up the direct link)
Alternatively, Mk 2 Planet X Team Superlight are very good as well.
Thanks, I think any of the bikes I'm looking at will suit me fine for crits... just hesitating over pulling the trigger in case i somehow get the wrong choice ha...0 -
Head says CAAD, heart says Bowman ........... Team Superlight in the garage says keep what ya got and spend money on blow n ho’sPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I have a CAAD12 that spent 2 months back at Cannondale with creaking issues. It came back with them saying it was the wheels! I took off the Zondas, put back on the original Aksiums and Jesus....it stopped creaking.
I've now got RS81's on it, it started creaking again a couple of months ago but has gone away after greasing everything and tightening everything again too.
Stem, bars, QR's, seat and post.... I know what it's like to have the creak, good luck!0 -
It's silent!!!!! I eventually tracked it down to a rear wheel bearing on the drive side! A £10 note for 2 new ones and it's as quiet as a mouse.
Now does anyone want the spare Dura ace crankset and brand new Boardman SLR elite signature frame?0