Warning about back derailleur screws

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Comments

  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    Pilot Pete wrote:
    Stop press - bolts can come loose on bikes.

    I think that’s it in a nutshell. I’d stick to English. :wink:

    PP

    Quite right :lol:
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    These are not just any bolts, they are Special bolts like some of you 8)
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    zefs wrote:
    These are not just any bolts, they are Special bolts like some of you 8)


    Did they cover the use of capital letters in your English GCSE?
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    Please make it stop!!!!!
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    If you got your hangar bolts from M&S you’ve only got yourself to blame... :roll: Or it could be incorrect use of your tool, like some on this thread... :mrgreen:

    PP
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    zefs wrote:
    You still don't get the point and maybe it was my fault not describing it correctly. If the bolts are loose without you knowing about it, next time you remove the wheel they can both come off (for me only one did) and then when you go for a ride without noticing (although the derailleur would come off), it could cause an issue. That's why I mentioned they should be checked if someone is not aware of this, pretty simple.

    If both bolts have come off then there is nothing holding the rear mech to the bike other than the chain and shifter cable. For you then to go for a ride without noticing this would therefore need you to have put the wheel in and threaded the chain onto the sprockets without the hanger moving despite it now being under tension from the mech spring. Then there is the issue of how the screws can get that loose in the first place. The QR stops them if they screw in from outside - if from inside I think that they'd get in the way of the chain or cassette long before they escaped.

    If, miraculously, you did manage to fit the rear wheel despite no hanger bolts, then the quick release would hold it in place as previously stated.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    I can't possibly know that every single frame and quick release combo would hold the bolts in place. As I said on a previous post even if you lose one bolt the least you could get is shifting issues because of misalignment and maybe damaging the hanger as well (if you are not aware of these bolts and replace it / new to cyclist).
  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    Zefs,nobody agrees with you.You do not know what you are talking about. After two minutes of looking at how a rear mech is fitted to a bike it should be obvious to you that you are talking rubbish. Please let it drop and move on.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    lesfirth wrote:
    Zefs,nobody agrees with you.You do not know what you are talking about. After two minutes of looking at how a rear mech is fitted to a bike it should be obvious to you that you are talking rubbish. Please let it drop and move on.

    The rear mech doesn't move if you remove 1 of the bolts on your bike? try it out, it does on mine.
    There's nothing to agree with, the post was about people who were not aware of these bolts causing issues (others have reported creaking when bolts are loose, etc).
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    When I bought a replacement hanger for my CR1 the Scott part came with 2 new screws, each with blue Loctite on the threads. The outgoing, but bent, hanger was also firmly secured with screws using threadlock.

    I just fitted some Chromoplastic guards to a mate's bike; all those mounting bolts came with threadlock on them.

    Virtually every Shimano component I've ever fitted had threadlock where required.

    All of which point to the fact that manufacturers recognise that on a bike in normal use, threaded components can work loose. Any sensible cyclist should check periodically that everything is still attached and no bolts have gone missing. You can't seriously blame the manufacturer of the bike if you've lost a hanger mounting screw years after purchase.

    Occasionally I'll strip a bike down for a proper clean and inspection. During reassembly I'll use Loctite on anything I don't want to come undone (eg mudguard and brake mounts) and copperslip on anything I don't want to seize (eg bottom bracket and pedal threads)
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Brake mounts, you mean where the brake mounts to the frame itself? Other than that and the hanger are there any other areas/screws that require applying loctite? Thanks
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    just slap it wherever you feel you want to.

    its loctite not weld.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Rack and mudguard mounts. Yes, the threaded bolt / tubular nut that holds a brake caliper on to the frame or fork. For square taper BBs the crank retaining bolts, and for Shimano HTII cranks the 2 pinch bolts which secure the NDS crank to the spindle. Chainring bolts.

    If you're being very thorough, the Pinch bolts on the stem which clamp the steerer and the bars (although they are so easily accessible and easy to check I don't bother, but from new they often have threadlock)

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