1x10 Options

ed1973
ed1973 Posts: 284
edited February 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all. This is my first post so go easy on me guys.
I’m fairly new to MTB and I’ve had a couple of trips to Cannock Chase, which I love.
Anyway I recently converted my bike to 1x10 with a 32T front and 11-42 cassette. Got myself a Shadow + M786 rear derailleur and GoatLink. Anyway I found I just didn’t have enough low gears to get me up the hills (I’m in my 40’s and need to get fitter). So my question is:
Is it possible to get an easier granny gear.? I’ve done a bit of research and realise I have several options but I’m not sure whether any of them are even possible. So.....
Can I get a 46T expander ring and ditch a cog, would my rear derailleur be able to take such a big top ring?
Should I get a 30T front ring and can you get 104BCD in a 30T?
Should I just splash the cash and go 11 speed 11-46, but would my 10 speed hub support this?
Or do I just get fitter?
Any help would be appreciated.

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Or go back to 2x and ride up hills.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    cooldad wrote:
    Or go back to 2x and ride up hills.

    Would agree here that might be better with a 34/26 chain rings etc.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I could do the whole of Cannock on a 32:34 lowest gear even when I was 50, so getting fitter seems most sensible.

    The lowest gear on your bike is roughly the same as the second lowest on a traditional 3x9 setup, while you can get lower gearing you’ll barely be moving and making keeping your balance pretty hard, so personally I think it’s back to getting fitter.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    I've been reading up and just wondered do the goat links make a difference to the shifting on 10 speed extended range cassettes?

    I've got a radr cage fitted to my rear mech and it makes a difference but it could be better.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The goat link (and much cheaper ebay copies) perform the same function as the Radr cage by moving the guide jockey further away from the big sprockets without using the B-screw to excess.

    A radr should work fine so its possibly a setup issue.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    The Rookie wrote:
    The goat link (and much cheaper ebay copies) perform the same function as the Radr cage by moving the guide jockey further away from the big sprockets without using the B-screw to excess.

    A radr should work fine so its possibly a setup issue.
    I have no Rad Cage in my set up (I’m OP) and shifting is great with just GoatLink.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    The Rookie wrote:
    The goat link (and much cheaper ebay copies) perform the same function as the Radr cage by moving the guide jockey further away from the big sprockets without using the B-screw to excess.

    A radr should work fine so its possibly a setup issue.

    Its working fine at the minute its a modified xtr m986 rear mech with the radr cage but the derailleur body is still closer to the cassette than i'd like.

    When I've some time, might experiment with an xt 11 speed mech, there a video of a guy using one with 10spd shifter and it working much better on 11-42t cassettes.

    The new deore hg500 cassette is rather good, no shifting like a higher end cassette but worth it for the money, 27.50 from merlin cycles.
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    swod1 wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    The goat link (and much cheaper ebay copies) perform the same function as the Radr cage by moving the guide jockey further away from the big sprockets without using the B-screw to excess.

    A radr should work fine so its possibly a setup issue.

    Its working fine at the minute its a modified xtr m986 rear mech with the radr cage but the derailleur body is still closer to the cassette than i'd like.

    When I've some time, might experiment with an xt 11 speed mech, there a video of a guy using one with 10spd shifter and it working much better on 11-42t cassettes.

    The new deore hg500 cassette is rather good, no shifting like a higher end cassette but worth it for the money, 27.50 from merlin cycles.
    Couldn’t agree more, thats the one I went for.
    Just wondering on people’s views on putting an oval ring on front so I get 32t on power and 30t on recovery, could help me thinks.....
  • I would run 30t or 32t wide narrow chainring with 42t rear cog, you just remove a spacer and a existing cog from a 10 speed cassette, add the 42t one and alter the rear mech.
    You will loose a gear in the middle of the cassette.

    You will need to alter the b-screw on the rear mech for clearance and obviously the lower limit.

    I'm currently running 11-36 with 30t and it's crap on the hills, I'd rather not get fitter and in the process damage my knees, pedal faster, not harder, get the gearing needed and you will still get fit because you will be getting your heart rate up with fast pedaling.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Ed1973 wrote:
    Couldn’t agree more, thats the one I went for.
    Just wondering on people’s views on putting an oval ring on front so I get 32t on power and 30t on recovery, could help me thinks.....

    Yes try an oval chain ring i was using on my bike a 34t oval and 11-40 cassette and it was fine for me but if you have a 104 bcd crankset you will be fine to try 30 or 32t easy to change them if one is too small or whatever.
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,168
    Just one Comment, may or may not be relevant.
    . 10 speed shimano mechs are designed for 36t cassette.

    Fitting 42 the or more means the b screw needs to wound In so the jockey wheel clears the biggest sprocket. The result of that is there is less chain overlap by a couple of links. Fewer sprocket teeth engaged means chain is more likely to skip.

    Probably not a problem but I didn't like the look of it.

    After I swapped the me home, I found hanger extension which I think would have solved the problem.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Yes or fit the radr cage from one up components works well for me

    Ed1973- what did you end up doing?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Or fit a hanger extender like a goatlink, you can get a copy off eBay for about £3.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ed1973
    ed1973 Posts: 284
    swod1 wrote:
    Yes or fit the radr cage from one up components works well for me

    Ed1973- what did you end up doing?
    Went for a Goatlink, works great