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Stuck Bottom Bracket

grahamcpgrahamcp Posts: 323
edited January 2018 in Workshop
I'm trying to remove a SRAM GXP BB - hasn't been touched for years and I'm having trouble getting it off.

I'm attempting the non-drive side first and believe this is a standard thread direction, so anti-clockwise to loosen.

I'm using a Park Tool BBT-9 but just can't get it moving.

Wondering if there is a better tool for the job that will give a bit more leverage. I found the crank bolt quite tough as well, even with a larger than average allen key, but I did get that off with my torque wrench in the end.

I found a Lezyne tool that looks like it might help - assuming this is compatible with the SRAM GXP BB what extra bits would be recommended to go with it - I was thinking either using a big adjustable spanner (which I already have) or getting some kind of long socket wrench (I don't think my torque wrench is the right size)
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/lezy ... -prod73442

Any advice on this or any other tips/wrench recommendations much appreciated!

Posts

  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Usually all that's required is a suitably long tool or breaker bar. Don't use a torque wrench if you want to carry on using it as one. Bike on the floor, push down on the lever.

    I once managed to shift a really stubborn nut on a car's suspension by cable tying a length of steel bar to the socket handle to create a 3 foot long lever.

    Failing that, impact tools / sockets? Or put the tool in a bench vice and turn the frame?

    Pouring boiling water over the BB can help loosen any threadlock / corrosion
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,601
    Give the tool a whack or two with a mallet. If that doesn't work, whack harder with a bigger mallet.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Serviced the Sram GXP BB on my trusted winter bike a fair few times.

    If you buy a new set you'll get the tool included, and be able to double check you've got the threading right.

    Putting new bearings in the cups is doable if you have a vice, I don't have any special tools, threaded rod, nuts & scavenged washers.....

    You might need to turn bike upside down, use extension sleeve of some description, wd40 soaked in & hit it progressively harder with a mallet, as above, if it's that seized. It went on so it'll come off!

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13060039 for previous thread.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    as above - don't use tourque wrench to undo as it will censored up the spring and calibration.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • grahamcpgrahamcp Posts: 323
    Thanks for the tip on the torque wrench - didn't realise that so will avoid using it.

    I have tried the mallet technique but the BBT9 is quite narrow and has the shimano crank arm tool on the end making a bit awkward to hit. Maybe I'll get the Lezyne bit and try that with my biggest spanner/mallet.

    Cheers.
  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    Grahamcp wrote:
    the BBT9 is quite narrow and has the shimano crank arm tool on the end

    It's easy enough to remove the plastic wheel from the other end - replace once BB sorted
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • grahamcpgrahamcp Posts: 323
    No joy unfortunately with the BBT-9 with a hammer or mallet (seemed to be damaging the BB shell a little, and no movement at all) so think I will need something a bit heavier duty - either that or admit defeat and take it to the shop.
  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,498
    I assume you have tried turning it the other way - sometimes a small tighten of the item releases it to be undone.

    I admitted defeat trying to remove a shimano HT2 BB from a carbon frame - it was bending the (cheapish) tool I had - I could've bought a nut to do it - but quite frankly, for the £20 or so it cost for the LBS to replace it for me - it wasn't worth the bother! :)
  • I would take it to the local bike shop. I know it might go against the grain if you like doing your own maintenance but sometimes there is no option and they will likely have experience in getting a stiff BB open again.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Lay bike on side and soak the bb with penetrating fluid for a couple of days (spray a shed load over it every few hours an allow to soak in).

    You can also spray it in through the bottle cage bolts and the hole under the cable guide under the bb.

    Obviously for the former lay the bike on the side opposite to the straying area, for the latter on the side on the stuck bb and a low it to pool onto the threads.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • step83step83 Posts: 4,107
    Remember with these

    non-drive side unscrews anti-clockwise and left handed thread drive side unscrews clockwise.

    I've never got one with tools like the BBT9, much prefer a socket style unit like the Lezyne one, use a ratchet not a torque wrench as mentioned, means you can also tap it if needed an soak the hell out it in penetrating fluid. When its out though be sure to remove all the remaining fluid and grease the tread of the new BB so this doesn't happen in future.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Oh - decent penetrating oil as well - Plus Gas or similar, no rubbish from B&Q or massively overpriced trendy rubbish from a bicycle shop.

    Motor factor is your man for this.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • grahamcpgrahamcp Posts: 323
    Quick update - the Lezyne tool arrived this morning and did the trick on both sides :-) As much as I like Park tools, the Lezyne one (plus a large adjustable spanner) is a much better tool for the task.
  • cooldad wrote:
    Give the tool a whack or two with a mallet. If that doesn't work, whack harder with a bigger mallet.
    I wouldn't recommend this course of action, particularly if it's a carbon frame !

    I must admit I resorted to this course of action to remove a stubborn bottom bracket on mine. While I did get the bottom bracket off, it developed a creaking noise a few thousand miles later, and it turned out the alu bottom bracket shell had become un-bonded from the carbon frame. Cause ... the shock of using a mallet on the BB removal tool to get it moving had cracked the bonding material holding the shell in place.

    You live and learn ... at least the bike wasn't owe me anything as it had done 36,000 miles when I had to retire it, as when I had to replace the BB the next time I couldn't get it out as the bb shell was just spinning in the frame. :shock:
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    you could have just bonded it in for a fiver.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Grahamcp wrote:
    Quick update - the Lezyne tool arrived this morning and did the trick on both sides :-) As much as I like Park tools, the Lezyne one (plus a large adjustable spanner) is a much better tool for the task.

    huzzah! success!
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • you could have just bonded it in for a fiver.

    Couldn't remove the BB, so tried bonding it in place twice ... both times it failed within 100 miles.
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