Pf30 to evo386 that won't dissolve in the rain.

jds_1981

I've been running a pf30 bottom bracket in my CX bike with an adapter (basically two cone shaped bits of metal) to allow me to run a 386evo crank set.
One side of the bottom bracket is already very grindy after a few months.
I was previously running a different adapter and Shimano crankset that had lasted for years.

Is anyone aware of an all in one bottom bracket that may last a little longer, or a pf30 bottom bracket that should last well in poor conditions?

tgotb

jds_1981 wrote:

I've been running a pf30 bottom bracket in my CX bike with an adapter (basically two cone shaped bits of metal) to allow me to run a 386evo crank set.
One side of the bottom bracket is already very grindy after a few months.
I was previously running a different adapter and Shimano crankset that had lasted for years.

Is anyone aware of an all in one bottom bracket that may last a little longer, or a pf30 bottom bracket that should last well in poor conditions?

Few options, none of which is very good I'm afraid:
1. Fit a PF30-BSA adaptor, and then screw in a BB386Evo BB. I have this on one bike; the issue is that the BB386Evo, being a wider version of BB30, has the same rubbish bearing seals.
2. Pop the seals out of the existing bearings and regrease. I used to do this on a weekly(*) basis, on my other CX bike; the more you remove the seals, the less good they are at sealing, so you eventually have to move to (3):
3. Carefully tap the bearings out of the PF30 fitting and replace with standard BB30 bearings. This will probably give you the best return on effort.

(*) In my defence, the bike was probably being pressure-washed 4 or 5 times a week...

jds_1981

Interesting, how does option three work?

tgotb

jds_1981 wrote:

Interesting, how does option three work?

I just tapped them out from the opposite side with a hammer and punch, and then replaced with a bearing press (with BB30 adaptors).

jds_1981

TGOTB wrote:

jds_1981 wrote:

Interesting, how does option three work?

I just tapped them out from the opposite side with a hammer and punch, and then replaced with a bearing press (with BB30 adaptors).

What is the advantage of bb30 over pf30 bearings?
Looks like they have the same measurements so how are the bearings more resilient?

milemuncher1

wheels manufacturing make a superb range of converters.

I have converted a PF 30 to HT II with this

https://www.evanscycles.com/wheels-manu ... gJlF_D_BwE

It’s very well made, and has survived a couple of winter’s riding, with no issues.

tgotb

jds_1981 wrote:

What is the advantage of bb30 over pf30 bearings?
Looks like they have the same measurements so how are the bearings more resilient?

They're not, they're exactly the same thing; what I really meant to say is that you can replace the bearing in a PF30 BB (as opposed to replacing the whole BB), and the bearing to get is a bog standard BB30.

I did look at eye-wateringly expensive ceramic bearings, which were claimed to run (in extremis) with no lube whatsoever, and to be completely indestructible. In the end I wasn't convinced enough, and decided to stick with periodically replacing with cheap ones.

The fundamental issue with *30 bearings is that the seals are more exposed than (say) Hollowtech; I don't think there's an easy way round that.

jds_1981

Milemuncher1 wrote:

wheels manufacturing make a superb range of converters.

I have converted a PF 30 to HT II with this

https://www.evanscycles.com/wheels-manu ... gJlF_D_BwE

It’s very well made, and has survived a couple of winter’s riding, with no issues.

That was the kind of thing I was looking for, but I have been unable to find the equivalent for pf30 to bb386.

jds_1981

TGOTB wrote:

jds_1981 wrote:

What is the advantage of bb30 over pf30 bearings?
Looks like they have the same measurements so how are the bearings more resilient?

They're not, they're exactly the same thing; what I really meant to say is that you can replace the bearing in a PF30 BB (as opposed to replacing the whole BB), and the bearing to get is a bog standard BB30.

Ah, okay, so saving about £15/go.
(Edit £3 https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-6806-2RS.php )

Do you have to remove the BB to knock the bearings out? If so, does this eventually wear the BB out?
I've already replaced my bottom bracket and have the old one lying around. Just the none drive side that has gone which I suppose makes sense as exposed to more dirt.

My issue is the canal path I cycle along is in very poor condition in a lot of places. There are loads of several hundred metre stretches which for a few days after rain turn into continuous puddles of sandy gritty water.

tgotb

jds_1981 wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

jds_1981 wrote:

What is the advantage of bb30 over pf30 bearings?
Looks like they have the same measurements so how are the bearings more resilient?

They're not, they're exactly the same thing; what I really meant to say is that you can replace the bearing in a PF30 BB (as opposed to replacing the whole BB), and the bearing to get is a bog standard BB30.

Ah, okay, so saving about £15/go.
(Edit £3 https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-6806-2RS.php )

Do you have to remove the BB to knock the bearings out? If so, does this eventually wear the BB out?
I've already replaced my bottom bracket and have the old one lying around. Just the none drive side that has gone which I suppose makes sense as exposed to more dirt.

My issue is the canal path I cycle along is in very poor condition in a lot of places. There are loads of several hundred metre stretches which for a few days after rain turn into continuous puddles of sandy gritty water.

My last PF30 BB was bonded into the frame (fairly weakly, I've subsequently removed it); I just tapped the bearings out with the plastic part of the BB still in the frame, using a hammer and drift. No guarantee I wasn't going to tap out the BB itself, but if I did I could just have refitted it with more Loctite.