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Chain length - going from long to short rear mech....

RiggaRigga Posts: 939
edited January 2018 in Workshop
As above, going from long rear mech to a short rear mech. Nothing else is changing regarding ratios etc.
How many links would people recommend removing from the chain? I'm thinking maybe two?
Thanks in advance.

Posts

  • timothywtimothyw Posts: 2,482
    Depends how the chain length was set in the first place.

    If it was done the way that I understand to be correct (for shimano at least) then you won't remove any (and to do so would be a very bad idea)

    As I understand it (and as I have done for years) you wrap the new chain around the biggest cog and biggest chainring, find the point at which they meet, add two links and cut at there.

    To remove any links now might risk that your chain won't be able to go round both the big chainring and biggest cog of the cassette - this would be bad.
  • mercia_manmercia_man Posts: 1,406
    Rather than bypassing mech and trying it on big/big - recommended by Shimano for wide range cassettes - I have always used the other Shimano recommended method.

    This involves putting chain through your new mech, selecting big ring front and smallest cog at back (top gear) and ensuring top jockey wheel is vertically immediately above bottom jockey wheel. That is a 90 degree angle to the ground with a vertical line through the middle of both jockey wheels. Losing a link will bring bottom wheel forward, adding will bring it back. I think this system is easier.

    Shimano’s official 11-speed instructions say this method is suitable for up to 27 teeth on cassette. It works fine for me on the 28 and 29 max sprockets on my bikes with long, short and medium length mechs. Also for switching between different length mechs on same bike.
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