Budget Road Bikes

Blade180
Blade180 Posts: 70
edited March 2018 in Road beginners
I am looking to buy a good build bike for up to £600.
Will be mainly used for long road distance rides.
I was also thinking maybe I should buy a cyclocross because where I live the roads usually pretty bad. But my drawback is that it will compromise how fast I go on roads.
Any suggestions?

Comments

  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    I'd think about something like this - https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-540- ... 77756.html

    It haas 25mm tyres anyway so not ultra thin. Where are you ? I don't think theres many places where people ride CX bikes rather than road bikes on the road routinely ?

    (that said i have a cx bike for winter. Chunky bombproof tyres and full mudguards. If i had lighter tyres it'd be 99% as fast as my road bike)
  • Blade180
    Blade180 Posts: 70
    How about these ones are they good for the value?
    https://www.jejamescycles.com/trek-1-2- ... -bike.html
    https://www.paulscycles.co.uk/m7b0s6p57 ... MPACT-2014

    For now I have found 2 bikes within my budget...
    Which one would be the better out of the 2...?
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    Laurynas wrote:
    Which one would be the better out of the 2...?
    IME Trek's current alu frames seem particularly good and not at all harsh.

    The Trek has rack & mudguard mounts so will easily take mudguards. The cables are externally routed, they will be easier to replace when needed. The Cube has short-drop brakes so tyre clearance will be tight - not enough room for decent mudguards or larger tyres.

    If buying online make sure you select the most appropriate frame size (too big is more of an issue than if it's a little too small).
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • deano802
    deano802 Posts: 67
    Fenix wrote:
    I'd think about something like this - https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-540- ... 77756.html

    It haas 25mm tyres anyway so not ultra thin. Where are you ? I don't think theres many places where people ride CX bikes rather than road bikes on the road routinely ?

    (that said i have a cx bike for winter. Chunky bombproof tyres and full mudguards. If i had lighter tyres it'd be 99% as fast as my road bike)

    Not 100% sure on the rules here, but I am about to sell my 6 month old Triban 540, great bike but need to fund a big upgrade.
  • wotnoshoeseh
    wotnoshoeseh Posts: 531
    Laurynas wrote:
    How about these ones are they good for the value?
    https://www.jejamescycles.com/trek-1-2- ... -bike.html
    https://www.paulscycles.co.uk/m7b0s6p57 ... MPACT-2014

    For now I have found 2 bikes within my budget...
    Which one would be the better out of the 2...?

    I'd get the Trek.
  • kirkee
    kirkee Posts: 369
    Planet X RT58 alloy Tiagra are good value, priced under your budget. Sensible gearing, compact with 11 32 cassette, ideal bike for beginners and general riding. I got a frame set and built it up recently. Im very happy with it, crazy value. Im running 28mm tyres with plenty of clearance, great for rougher road surfaces. If you go mail order though just try to be sure of the correct size you will need. Not easy if you are not very experienced. As for road bike v cx speed on road rides, the road bike will be quicker for your intended usage.
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    With the same tyres a cross bike will be just as fast on the road as a road bike.
  • kirkee
    kirkee Posts: 369
    Cx bikes are good on the road but a cx bike at the cheaper budget end may be heavier than an equivalently priced road bike so the road bike will feel quicker especially on climbs. Also a cx bike may come with cx specific gearing like a 36 48 with a narrower rear cassette.
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    kirkee wrote:
    Also a cx bike may come with cx specific gearing like a 36 48 with a narrower rear cassette.

    Not sure I’d agree fully with that, chainrings yes (well usually 36/46) but a narrower rear cassette? I think it is the opposite, they usually come with a wide range cassette as generally speaking you probably want a few lower ratios than a road bike for a short, sharp, muddy climb...

    Indeed Cycling Weekly’s recent review of 10 cyclocross bikes shows just this, plus (and I quote) ”a typical cyclocross bike designed for competition would come with a 46/36t double chainset and a fairly wide range cassette.”

    And of course the latest trend is 1x, which comes with a huge range cassette!

    Having said that, I’ve never found my cross gearing 36/46 12-28 to be an issue on my winter road bike. Sure I can’t descend and pedal like a banshee, but the Peak District in winter is not the place I’d like to be doing that anyway!

    PP
  • w00dster
    w00dster Posts: 880
    I personally do find that 36/46 isn't ideal for the road, but different horses for different courses.
    If I had £600 to spend I would be looking in the second hand market. You should be able to find a 1 or 2 year old ex £2k bike for your budget.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I specifically fitted a 46/36 CX chainset on my winter bike and find it's fine with a 12-27 cassette.

    CX bikes generally come with disc brakes and heavier wheels which may be overkill if all your riding is in better weather. Handy for a year round bike or commuter though.

    You'll definitely get more bike for your £600 by going second hand, but make sure you get the right size for you, and if you're a beginner get some help from somebody who knows a bit about bikes.
  • Blade180
    Blade180 Posts: 70
    Yes I have been looking for second hand bikes and some look really worth it but still got plenty of time to make a decision. I want to buy it around end of march, early April. As a student it's hard to generate cash for luxuries such as this. I reckon I could sell my old road bike and get maybe like 50 euros. I don't want to buy a CX anymore, and a road bike is my main aim.
    I was also considering refurbushing my current bike but I don't think its worth it. I paid 350 euros brand new, a year later all components are on the end of its life, a set of new wheels required as spokes keep snapping.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    w00dster wrote:
    I personally do find that 36/46 isn't ideal for the road, but different horses for different courses.

    I’m interested as to what it is you find not ideal? Genuine question.

    PP
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    Always look to get the best quality frame you can buy. It's far easier to upgrade components then the frame!
    The trouble with some budget bikes is that if you find you're really enjoying road cycling you end up having to buy a new bike if you want something that will go faster.

    With that in mind I'd recommend the new Specialized Allez, £600 will get you the Claris equipped version which certainly isn't as good a groupset as the 105 on the Triban but the frame is much better.
    Over time you can upgrade the chainset and the wheels and you'll have an awesome bike that will be as good as a bikes worth far more.
  • kirkee
    kirkee Posts: 369
    Most modern budget bikes will have decent enough alloy frames with carbon blade forks. If you can, avoid 8 speed Claris and look for a bike thats idealy got a ten speed group like Tiagra. 10 speed is nicer to ride and the cassettes are cheap with alot of range choice to get the right gearing you need. Upgrading the drivetrain further down the line seems a bit pointless.
    Caveat - I buy and ride cheap, however, I reserve the right to advise on expensive kit that I have never actually used and possibly never will
  • cld531c
    cld531c Posts: 517
    Laurynas wrote:
    Yes I have been looking for second hand bikes and some look really worth it but still got plenty of time to make a decision. I want to buy it around end of march, early April. As a student it's hard to generate cash for luxuries such as this. I reckon I could sell my old road bike and get maybe like 50 euros. I don't want to buy a CX anymore, and a road bike is my main aim.
    I was also considering refurbushing my current bike but I don't think its worth it. I paid 350 euros brand new, a year later all components are on the end of its life, a set of new wheels required as spokes keep snapping.

    I would be a bit concerned if I had completely wrecked a bike in 12 months... what have you been doing to kill all the components in such a short space of time?
  • w00dster
    w00dster Posts: 880
    Hi Pete,
    As a reasonably strong rider and someone who races both road and crit, i prefer a larger big ring, cresting hills, attacking, downhill sections i want to feel the gears under my feet and not spin out.
    Fur the mountains of north wales a 50/34 is ideal, but majority of UK rides or races then my preference is 52/38.
    A short hill i tend to drop one or two at the rear then attack the hill, coming down the other side is often a chance for a break, so i need 52-11 to be available.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Ahh, fair enough. I think the OP does not have pretentions in your direction for his type of riding though... :wink:

    PP
  • Blade180
    Blade180 Posts: 70
    cld531c wrote:
    Laurynas wrote:
    Yes I have been looking for second hand bikes and some look really worth it but still got plenty of time to make a decision. I want to buy it around end of march, early April. As a student it's hard to generate cash for luxuries such as this. I reckon I could sell my old road bike and get maybe like 50 euros. I don't want to buy a CX anymore, and a road bike is my main aim.
    I was also considering refurbushing my current bike but I don't think its worth it. I paid 350 euros brand new, a year later all components are on the end of its life, a set of new wheels required as spokes keep snapping.

    I would be a bit concerned if I had completely wrecked a bike in 12 months... what have you been doing to kill all the components in such a short space of time?


    I did not look after it well i.e not washing as frequently as I should. The components corroded.
  • cld531c
    cld531c Posts: 517
    Laurynas wrote:
    cld531c wrote:
    Laurynas wrote:
    Yes I have been looking for second hand bikes and some look really worth it but still got plenty of time to make a decision. I want to buy it around end of march, early April. As a student it's hard to generate cash for luxuries such as this. I reckon I could sell my old road bike and get maybe like 50 euros. I don't want to buy a CX anymore, and a road bike is my main aim.
    I was also considering refurbushing my current bike but I don't think its worth it. I paid 350 euros brand new, a year later all components are on the end of its life, a set of new wheels required as spokes keep snapping.

    I would be a bit concerned if I had completely wrecked a bike in 12 months... what have you been doing to kill all the components in such a short space of time?


    I did not look after it well i.e not washing as frequently as I should. The components corroded.

    tut tut!

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