Headset fitment issues!

Shaggy33
Shaggy33 Posts: 16
edited December 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all
As a Christmas pressie to myself I’m building a cotic solaris max rigid mtb and am gathering components for the build. The frames head tune is a straight 44mm requiring external bearing cups. My forks have a tapered steerer.
On the advice of chain reaction I’ve purchased the following hope headset pair
Top - 2-top-integral-zs44/28.6-Black
Bottom-H-bottom-1.5 trad-ec44/40-red
I’ve used a vernier gauge and the steerer tube is 43.76mm and the flanges on the Hope headsets are 44.1!
Does this mean they are a Press fit or should I lightly sand the inside of tubing?
Seems like it will be incredibly tight!

Comments

  • Shaggy33 wrote:
    Hi all
    As a Christmas pressie to myself I’m building a cotic solaris max rigid mtb and am gathering components for the build. The frames head tune is a straight 44mm requiring external bearing cups. My forks have a tapered steerer.
    On the advice of chain reaction I’ve purchased the following hope headset pair
    Top - 2-top-integral-zs44/28.6-Black
    Bottom-H-bottom-1.5 trad-ec44/40-red
    I’ve used a vernier gauge and the steerer tube is 43.76mm and the flanges on the Hope headsets are 44.1!
    Does this mean they are a Press fit or should I lightly sand the inside of tubing?
    Seems like it will be incredibly tight!

    I think those are semi integrated, the cups and bearings are integrated with the races. They just press into the head tube, they are designed to be a tight fit.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    edited December 2017
    They do need some effort to get in, lightly grease to stop them snagging, you can use a proper headset press or a length of threaded bar with some big washers or a block of wood and an hammer depending on your frame of mind. The fact there is a specific press indicates the tightness of fit.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The head tube will get slightly eccentric ( not completely round ) over time, but there will be enough ‘give’ in most materials ( except Titanium ) to allow the new set to be pressed in, without too much swearing.
  • Thanks guys, much appreciated. I’m just paranoid about damaging fram! Block of wood I think!
  • Horton
    Horton Posts: 327
    Shaggy33 wrote:
    Thanks guys, much appreciated. I’m just paranoid about damaging fram! Block of wood I think!

    I’d go for a proper headset press over a block of wood any day! Not dissing the woodblock, but it’s the most agricultural option when it comes to fitting something with very tight tolerances and the potential to wreck a frame if it doesn’t stay straight.

    If you’re not confident, get your lbs to do it. It shouldn’t be expensive and if they cock it up, it’s their lookout!
  • figbat
    figbat Posts: 680
    You can always heat the steerer tube (hair drier) and chuck the headset in the freezer to get you a fraction more wiggle room.
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'm not sure how heating the fork steerer will help with inserting the headset into the head tube?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    The Rookie wrote:
    I'm not sure how heating the fork steerer will help with inserting the headset into the head tube?

    Think it’s pretty obvious he’s talking about the head tube :roll:

    But Kudos to you for spotting his mistake and pointing it out him.