Greasing a new Shimano M525 hub advice...

lvquestpaddler
lvquestpaddler Posts: 416
edited December 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
I got a new 26" wheel delivered for £25 with the above hub. On spinning it and holding the axle it is really quite rough so I popped off the seals and loosened the cones for a look in either side. Not much at all in the way of grease(clear looking stuff) so I have a few questions I'd like some help on folks....
1/ what spec/type/make grease will this likely be and can I just add some more of the same/equivalent before resetting the cones to save some time?
2/ (or)Should I just thoroughly clean off everything (avoiding using any solvents that could affect new grease) and re-grease with a decent grease?
3/ recommendations for a decent grease for the wet, gritty cold Scottish Highlands?

Hub spares are not easy to find, last cones I got from SJS were about £13, so getting a spanking new wheel this time made total sense(alex rims and standard s/s 2mm spokes by the look of them, basic but that's fine for intended use)....

I looked through Tech FAQ's but couldn't find anything??

(This maybe explains why some budget wheels I've bought before haven't lasted well- assuming they arrive good to go when they've skimped on greasing them!)

TIA

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I just use standard automotive grease on most things, big tin of golden stuff from Halfords lasts a decade on a bike.

    More specialised stuff in forks etc.
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  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Same here. One tin since 1981. Bikes, cars, tools.

    Some people suggest using marine / waterproof grease but I CBA to keep 16 different ones for different things.

    I just periodically strip / clean / reassemble the hubs with clean grease.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I do prefer a red rubber (waterproof) grease, especially on bearings that are shielded and not sealed, but yes a strip, clean and fresh grease and they last for ages if you keep on top of them. Cup and cone as a bearing system is superior to cartridge, just cartridge have the benefit of fit and forget until they are dead.

    I picked up a wheel with a Shimano M475 rear hub, the one cone was quite badly pitted in one place, cleaned and regreased and marked the cone so that I always fitted the pitted bit facing up, it did about another 2500 miles (on my commuter) like that and it still spun smoothly at the end but the spokes were dying.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Hi

    Use multi-purpose grease

    Is it a front or rear wheel?

    Could have been over tightened from new, re-adjust the cone and try it!
    Mobile Bicycle Mechanics Specialist http://www.cycletechuk.co.uk
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,168
    I have a tub of marine grease bought from Halfords as it was reduced and because of it being waterproof.

    Generally. I keep bikes have decent hubs that are seals more recent ones have sealed bearings so waterproofness is not essential.

    The yellow coloured castle lm grease is fine, as what others are using.

    Wash the old grease out with white spirit or paraffin then pack with grease. If ball bearing are pitted replaced them.

    Adjust cones so there is a tiny amount of play and job done.
  • lpretro1
    lpretro1 Posts: 237
    I'd recommend Weldtite red grease - seems to be more long-lived than most