Bottom bracket renovation

munkyrider
munkyrider Posts: 10
edited December 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello, new user here.
I'm having a bash at renovating an old (mid 90s) Kona Lava Dome which had been sitting in my shed for a decade or two!
Not in too bad nick overall, apart from the bottom bracket, on which I'd appreciate any advice.
I can't exactly identify the bottom bracket except the free cone is marked " TANGE-SEIKI 1.37 x 24T " and the axle "D-3W". Managed to get the lock ring and adjustable cone off the non-drive side, and although there's some wear to the cone and balls, they might be worth refitting. But there's also a loose cupped washer-like piece inside the cone which I believe is more of a dust cap rather than part of the ball race? This 'dust cap' is heavily damaged (photos) attached. Looks to be 27mm OD and about 5mm wide.
I haven't taken the fixed side cone off yet, but think I probably need to in case there's a similar problem on that side.
Question is, can I get a replacement for the 'dust cap', can I make something to replace it or do without it, or do I need to replace the entire BB? Rather not replace the whole BB unless I really need to.
Cheers in advance for any advice.

IMG_4353_zps4b21zpzp.jpg
IMG_4357_zpsi5l0ofmh.jpg

Comments

  • My advice, even though you don't want to - would be to replace the whole BB - just make sure you get the right thread and length and then you should be good to go - it will probably be just as cost effective as trying to replace the parts....

    A
    Alistair


    Best Weather Bike - Time ZXRS
    Summer Road Bike - Pinarello FPX Dogma
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    A Shimano complete BB (UNxx) starts at about £6, personally I'd just get a new one.

    I still have 2 bikes on cup and cone BB, neither has or had that piece, so you could just bin it!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    That thing looks like the remains of a bearing cage, so you don't really need it. If you are determined to re-use the bits you have, and the bearing tracks are clean, at least take the opportunity to fit new ball bearings with the fresh grease. You may be able to fit an extra ball in without the cage.

    If it was mine I'd just fit a decent spec sealed cartridge unit.
  • Thanks for the replies. Maybe I'll fit a complete new BB as advised! Not trying to be tight, I just like the idea of re-using if I can. I think I'm right in assuming that the drive side cone is a left-hand thread? Whichever way, it's jolly tight and the balls get in the way of friction fitting a bolt through there to get a better purchase (a la Sheldon Brown advice), so I'll have to lob the whole thing into my vice and turn the bike I think. Have tried a bit of heat on it but no dice. Thanks again.
  • I've got the other side off now, and the balls in there are pristine (in a cage), but as suggested I'll fit a new cartridge. However, my gear cables run through a guide mounted on the bottom of the frame, and this guide is held on by a threaded grease nipple which is threaded in through the frame and protrudes through a hole in the plastic casing of the old BB.
    I guess the new cartridge won't have a similar hole for the grease nipple? but will I be able to remount the guide (using the grease nipple) without fouling the new cartridge?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    There's normally a bit of clearance between the cartridge and the BB shell so it might not foul the grease nipple. If it does, file it down a bit. It's sole purpose now will be to locate the cable guide. No point in squirting grease in there any more.

    At the worst, remove the nipple entirely and stick the guide on with glue
  • Cheers everyone.
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,171
    The grease nipple has no purpose with a sealed BB so might as well remove it. The cable guide can be held on with a pop rivet or screw.