Question about the Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 8.0 Reynolds

tyw214

Rode bike for about a year, got into an accident with my CAAD12 Disc completely trashed. So I was looking for a new bike, and was super excited about Canyon selling the US. The Aeroad CF SLX 8.0 seem like a good deal, so I pulled the trigger!

Now i have the bike "Assembled", test rode it for only 15min since I am a little concerned about my assembly job, and because I am a little confused about the Reynolds wheel XD... Never service'd/rode carbon/deep section wheels so I have some questions....

1. When braking, I hear "sound" coming from the brake track like something being "dragged" / sand paper sound? hard to describe!
My first two bikes were both hydraulic disc, and when they brake they never made any "sound" from the brakes themselves, so I was wondering if this is normal for Rim brakes on carbon wheels. I checked the brakes, and they seem to properly contact the brake track when I press the brakes. Came with some blue pads.

2. The valve extender, while i was pumping it with my floor pump, the tires inflated, but the pressure gauge from my pump isn't working correctly, it shows no pressure I assumed air is going in, i kind of gauge it with my hand. (I couldn't depress the tires). I could also hear air coming out of the valve head while pumping. Is the valve extender not working? (They came screwed on the wheels). How am i suppose to pump air with the valve extender on?

3. if the valve extender need some adjustment, what am I suppose to do? It came with these black extender (i assumed are from Reynolds), and I couldn't find any instruction in the documentation that came with the box to tell me anything about them

4. Also, how to are you suppose to use a bike stand with this??? the top tube is super thin, the seat post isn't round... <_< i am not sure how to get a normal bike stand to work with it!

The valve extenders looked like these: https://reynoldscycling.com/products/re ... 4127649933 I couldn't find any details about how to install these!

Some help would be appreciated!

sloppyschleckonds

Sounds like a lot of questions for the people you bought the bike from

mamba80

So long as the brake pads arent touching the tire, thats the noise they make, toeing them in by a mill or so might improve the noise, google it.

the extenders look like they screw over the top of the "opened" valve, you should get psi indication as per normal on your track pump.

the Aeroad frame is super strong, its not made of tissue paper, the angled shapes make for more crush resistance not less, i put my daughters Aeroad in a stand and she's also crashed hers a plenty.

If your still having probs, i ll take it off your hands for £500.

tyw214

mamba80 wrote:

So long as the brake pads arent touching the tire, thats the noise they make, toeing them in by a mill or so might improve the noise, google it.

the extenders look like they screw over the top of the "opened" valve, you should get psi indication as per normal on your track pump.

the Aeroad frame is super strong, its not made of tissue paper, the angled shapes make for more crush resistance not less, i put my daughters Aeroad in a stand and she's also crashed hers a plenty.

If your still having probs, i ll take it off your hands for £500.

Thanks for the tips. Did you have to play around with the valve/valve extenders when you got yours??

My pressure gauge on my pump isn't registering anything from it but i know the pump is working since it's working on my normal bike with normal valve ;x

jollygiant

I bought the Aeroad 8.0 Disc in October in their sale too. Best bike I've ever had or ridden and super fast to.
I thought the same with the valve extenders. But sussed it in the end, make sure they are screwed onto the open valve tightly and that'll be fine.

The frame will be fine, I clamp the seat post. Mine is 2x XL and I weigh 100KGs.

The sound could be the brake pads just bedding in, if it carries on pop into your local bike shop and they should be able to help.

The deep rims are fine, but can be a bit wobbly in a cross wind until you get used to it.

mamba80

tyw214 wrote:

mamba80 wrote:

So long as the brake pads arent touching the tire, thats the noise they make, toeing them in by a mill or so might improve the noise, google it.

the extenders look like they screw over the top of the "opened" valve, you should get psi indication as per normal on your track pump.

the Aeroad frame is super strong, its not made of tissue paper, the angled shapes make for more crush resistance not less, i put my daughters Aeroad in a stand and she's also crashed hers a plenty.

If your still having probs, i ll take it off your hands for £500.

Thanks for the tips. Did you have to play around with the valve/valve extenders when you got yours??

My pressure gauge on my pump isn't registering anything from it but i know the pump is working since it's working on my normal bike with normal valve ;x

Not really, just make sure they are screwed on tightly and that the original valve is undone.

have a look at this zipp video, it ll tell you all you need to know. an alt is to get some inner tubes with long enough valves so you dont need extenders.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9YLlZDIOkU

tyw214

I actually accidently unscrewed the extender all the way off in the evening and couldn't get it back in, so I took it to the shop 2 blocks down to have them put it back on...

For the LIFE OF ME, i could not get the GP Attack off of the front Reynolds... it's SUPER SUPER tight... jesus chris... I tried looking up information on how to take tires off deep section views but to no avail, and I saw the guys at the shop really really going at it, and he didn't want to use sharper tools since these are expensive wheels...

In the end, I just bought a tube with longer valve (partly because the guy worked really hard helping me get those tires off XD), and it's better now... And also, the Canyon guys didn't put any tapes around the valve!!!

as for the rear wheel... i don't know what to do with it yet... I'm gonna try to do what that Zipp video showed...

As far as my Canyon experience, I just took it out for a 10 mile spin and it was a blast. The mech and brakes aligned perfectly, shifting was smooth. So i really think the Canyon experience is totally awesome besides the VALVE EXTENDERS!! They DEFINITELY should of added some tape for you on the valve, AND have some explanation...

or better yet, why didn't they just use a tube with longer valves in the first place?!?! <_<

jollygiant

tyw214 wrote:

I actually accidently unscrewed the extender all the way off in the evening and couldn't get it back in, so I took it to the shop 2 blocks down to have them put it back on...

For the LIFE OF ME, i could not get the GP Attack off of the front Reynolds... it's SUPER SUPER tight... jesus chris... I tried looking up information on how to take tires off deep section views but to no avail, and I saw the guys at the shop really really going at it, and he didn't want to use sharper tools since these are expensive wheels...

Yup I was plagued with punctures for about the first 400 miles, but thats Autumn in England for ya!
The tyres are damn hard to get on and off, I even snapped a fibreglass tyre lever getting one off at one point. I did find it abad easier if you get the bead into the centre dip in the rim, but the bead is super tight, which is good if you are using the tubeless set up.
Ive decided that in the new year I'm going to try tubeless.

cookeeemonster

A friend of mine had the same problem getting the tyres off and on while fixing roadside punctures...he wanted to junk the wheels after that experience I think it's basically because they are meant to be set up tubeless (I had a similar problem with a wheelset once myself).

Once the tyres wear out I'd set them up tubeless if I were you, might save you a lot of hassle!

kofsw4

I had major issues with those valve extenders that came with my aeroad. I think the presta valves inside the rim closed up so I couldn't inflate or deflate the tube. Ended up having to use a pin to puncture the tube through the tyre in order to deflate it to get it out! Always used 80mm valve inner tubes since.

Tyres are a pain to get off the Reynolds wheels. You have to push them into the centre channel of the rim I order to minimise the wheels circumference then use two levers to pull the tyre off. Still takes me about 15 minutes every time but I'm not brave enough to try tubeless yet.

jameshulsk

One thing to remember is that valve extenders don't always create a perfectly airtight seal, so use some Teflon tape/plumbers tape around the thread before you screw the valve extender on. This will be really useful if you haven't used deeper section wheels before:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Valve_Ex ... _3007.html

Or just get some 80mm vale tubes, you won't have to mess around at the side of the road then if you get a puncture!

foggymike

I always use long enough valves not to need extenders where possible as it's just an extra hassle you don't want to deal with. With really deep wheels it's not always an option though, or when borrowing tubes or when you run out of long valve tubes at home.

I had trouble with the pressure not reading when I first got deep rims but realised there are two types of extender and it depends on which you have.

There are ones where you can unscrew a removable valve core and shift it to the end of the extender (like Conti tubes/extenders for example) are these are fine as they work just like a normal inner tube with a longer valve stem and give you a pressure reading.

Unfortunately there are also ones that are just a tube that screws over the original complete valve and stem combo and they are rubbish (like the old Mavic brass things, Zipp, or unfortunately for you Reynolds). These are only suggested if you have to use inner tubes with non-removable cores for some reason. Given a choice I'm not sure why anyone would go for these these. I suppose manufacturers include them as they don't know if you have removable cores or not and they at least get everyone on the road.

You won't get a pressure reading on the second screw over tube type because you open the valve hidden down at the bottom of the extender tube by pumping which pushes the valve down which opens it. The pump guage will swing up and down as you pump but it's not telling you the accurate tube pressure and just helps you guesstimate at best. As soon as you stop pumping the valve should close from the internal pressure (no pump head in contat to hold it open) so you get no reading from the tube at all.

Oh, and the braking noise sounds normal for carbon rim brakes. It's either as you describe or like a jet engine slowing down depending on brand. I like it! 8) Just make sure there are no stones or debris in the pads - that sounds much harsher and you'd see scratches on the rims. If there are no scratches it should be normal braking sounds. Try a bit of you tube searching if you need some reassurance. I've not looked but I'm sure someone will have posted their braking noises

Maglia_Rosa

Just curious if anyone has managed to fathom the track gauge issue with the Reynolds extenders as I’ve just taken delivery of a Canyon Aeroad myself and everything is great apart from when inflating both tyres I’m having the same issue where the pump gauge does move but shoots straight back down when I’m not inflating making it very difficult to get an accurate desired pressure.

Any tips?