Old grease and oil/lubrication - Giant Defy 0 2015
I've just taken delivery of a 2015 Giant Defy 0 in near perfect condition, just a couple of minor scratches to the frame. I've cleaned and polished it and had a couple of short 5 mile rides on it and it's a major improvement over my 2009 Trek 4300 mtb is concerned. It's light and easy to get up hills with. However, I'll resist riding along my local canal towpath!
The bicycle has hardly been used, indicated by oxidation on the chain, no wear on the chain, dry cables, no wear on the tyres, even having the manufacturing rubber hairs from the molding, hand tapes and saddle spotless.
My question to the Workshop forum is this:
Will the grease in the wheel hubs be ok after 2 years or should I remove the wheels and regrease them myself? The wheels are free wheeling and exhibit no sign of grating.
The bicycle has hardly been used, indicated by oxidation on the chain, no wear on the chain, dry cables, no wear on the tyres, even having the manufacturing rubber hairs from the molding, hand tapes and saddle spotless.
My question to the Workshop forum is this:
Will the grease in the wheel hubs be ok after 2 years or should I remove the wheels and regrease them myself? The wheels are free wheeling and exhibit no sign of grating.
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It will be fine. Just ride it. The grease isn't going anywhere.
Alternatively - no they will knackered and unsafe and will lead to dead disease. Smash them with a hammer, set fire to them with fire, throw them into next door's garden and buy some Obermayers to replace them.
Choose your answer.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
They'll likely be sealed cartridge bearings in the hubs so you'll do more harm than good trying to regrease them. Just ride the thing.0
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Thanks for the advice. I'll run with it for now and reassess later in the new year. I just wasn't sure how long a bearing or the grease would last.
I suppose if they are sealed cartridge bearings, then I'll need to source replacements. Luckily there is a Giant store nearby.0 -
You won't need to source replacements if there's nothing wrong with the bearings - and you said they were fine earlier...0
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I wouldn’t run with it if I were you - it’s an awkward shape and you’ll bang your shins on the pedals.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I did a service on a work mates bike last year. It had been stood outside for around 18 months, and had only covered a few hundred miles.
When I took the hubs apart, they still had the original bright green grease inside. A quick poke around with a clean rag to see if there was any moisture, and put them back together0 -
magicrim wrote:Thanks for the advice. I'll run with it for now and reassess later in the new year. I just wasn't sure how long a bearing or the grease would last.
I suppose if they are sealed cartridge bearings, then I'll need to source replacements. Luckily there is a Giant store nearby.
If the seals are good then the grease will stay where it is, doing it's thing, sometimes for a surprisingly long time. Once the seal deteriorates the grease can get out, or more commonly, water and grit gets in, then it's curtains. Good thing about cartridge bearings is that a badly corroded one can be simply whipped out and replaced; leave a cup and cone one neglected too long and you could end up needing a new hub.
Couple of things though:
A) I wouldn't go buying replacements till the old bearings are knackered. Could be fairly soon if you commute on it in all weathers, or it could be several years away if it's a fair weather bike kept somewhere dry. I have loads of stuff I've bought in case I needed it but never did; now I just buy to replace whatever just wore out / broke / exploded / fell off. It helps that I have 2 bikes so it's not a disaster if one is out of action.
I may be wrong, but a Giant store might not be the cheapest place to buy replacements. They should be standard sizes, widely available , and there's several online suppliers. When you knock out a bearing, if the code isn't stamped / printed / etched on it, you can identify it by it's thickness and inner and outer diameters in mm, plus the number and type of seals. (some wheelsets come with bearings with no inner seal. Which is great if no water makes it's way into the hub, but if it does they turn to orange crap and disintegrate / seize up)
You might want to opt for better quality bearings than were originally fitted. SKF for example. Don't bother with ceramic though; pointlessly expensive for a pushbike0 -
I've just done a first service for a new to me bike from 1986. Some bits were a bit dry but what was there was still OK. IIRC, grease is oil with soap added and it'll have been in the ground for millions of years before being liberated ;-)0
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My take on this is that any bike I buy is worth taking apart for an inspection. Overkill most of the time but if you feel comfortable with your mechanical skills it's good piece of mind and if something prematurely fails at least you'll know it wasn't that way when you purchased it.0
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crankycrank wrote:My take on this is that any bike I buy is worth taking apart for an inspection. Overkill most of the time but if you feel comfortable with your mechanical skills it's good piece of mind and if something prematurely fails at least you'll know it wasn't that way when you purchased it.
How do you mean “take apart for an inspection”?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Remove all components, grease threads, check bearings and re-lube if necessary, check for proper tightness, condition and adjustment on all parts. As I said overkill most of the time but the only way to know for sure if your bike is in good order.Matthewfalle wrote:crankycrank wrote:My take on this is that any bike I buy is worth taking apart for an inspection. Overkill most of the time but if you feel comfortable with your mechanical skills it's good piece of mind and if something prematurely fails at least you'll know it wasn't that way when you purchased it.
How do you mean “take apart for an inspection”?0 -
Do you do this often?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
No. Only when I buy a bike. Is this a problem for you?Matthewfalle wrote:Do you do this often?0 -
crankycrank wrote:
Remove all components, grease threads, check bearings and re-lube if necessary, check for proper tightness, condition and adjustment on all parts. As I said overkill most of the time but the only way to know for sure if your bike is in good order.Matthewfalle wrote:crankycrank wrote:My take on this is that any bike I buy is worth taking apart for an inspection. Overkill most of the time but if you feel comfortable with your mechanical skills it's good piece of mind and if something prematurely fails at least you'll know it wasn't that way when you purchased it.
How do you mean “take apart for an inspection”?
Greasing threads is a bad idea in many cases - especially if you plan on torqueing them afterwards. In fact, the whole thing sounds like a bad idea, to me..0 -
crankycrank wrote:
No. Only when I buy a bike. Is this a problem for you?Matthewfalle wrote:Do you do this often?
Oh not at all, my passive aggressive friend. Just wonderin' like.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Not sure why it's a bad idea. Would be the only way to know if the bike needs any care. Use your descretion with torqued fasteners. I've found quite a few used bikes that need some tightening or lubing on at least one component. Piece of mind if you want it.Imposter wrote:Greasing threads is a bad idea in many cases - especially if you plan on torqueing them afterwards. In fact, the whole thing sounds like a bad idea, to me..0 -
Which components, in your experience, would you suggest people look out for - i.e. What's the most common one that needs tightening/lubing?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
crankycrank wrote:
Not sure why it's a bad idea. Would be the only way to know if the bike needs any care. Use your descretion with torqued fasteners. I've found quite a few used bikes that need some tightening or lubing on at least one component. Piece of mind if you want it.Imposter wrote:Greasing threads is a bad idea in many cases - especially if you plan on torqueing them afterwards. In fact, the whole thing sounds like a bad idea, to me..
Torque numbers generally apply to dry threads. If you are greasing those threads and then re-fitting them with the original torque settings, then they will almost certainly be under-torqued.0 -
Plus, unless he is using new bolts throughout, the Old bolts will give an incorrect reading anyhow, so using them and greasing means that who knows what tension these bolts are under. Gulp.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Matthewfalle wrote:Plus, unless he is using new bolts throughout, the Old bolts will give an incorrect reading anyhow, so using them and greasing means that who knows what tension these bolts are under. Gulp.
Are you particularly bored at the moment? You seem to be looking around for entertainment.
What is your personal view on a standard threaded BB shell / Shimano HT2 BB / copperslip? Still torque it to the value suggested by Shimano? And if so, how do you do that both sides with a torque wrench that only goes one way?
Ditto for pedals.
What's the effect, if any, of the threadlock on new BB cups? Does it cancel out the copperslip? What happens if the BB has been removed / reinstalled several times?
Actually, most new threaded components seem to have threadlock (brake calipers, rack and mudguard mounting bolts, chainring bolts, mech hangers etc. Should they be greased / copperslipped on assembly or left as is? You don't want them coming loose, but one day you might want to be able to undo them.
(most of this is theoretical musing on my part; I now have 2 torque wrenches, but have still used neither on my bikes)0
