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cheapest way to replace Ultegra 6800 50t chainring?

prhymeateprhymeate Posts: 792
edited November 2017 in Workshop
After replacing my chain I've noticed it slipping on the 50t chainring. It's my own fault for commuting on it and being too lazy to replace the chain sooner. What is the cheapest way to replace it? It looks like I can get a 105 chainring for about £65. Or for another £25 just buy a complete 105 chainset... Just wanted to double check before I click buy.

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  • svettysvetty Posts: 1,904
    Prhymeate wrote:
    After replacing my chain I've noticed it slipping on the 50t chainring. It's my own fault for commuting on it and being too lazy to replace the chain sooner. What is the cheapest way to replace it? It looks like I can get a 105 chainring for about £65. Or for another £25 just buy a complete 105 chainset... Just wanted to double check before I click buy.
    If you've only just replaced the chain it may be worth holding off for a few miles as a new chain will often 'bed-in' on slightly worn rings. If the rings are significantly worn though replacing them is the only option :? .
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • Svetty wrote:
    Prhymeate wrote:
    After replacing my chain I've noticed it slipping on the 50t chainring. It's my own fault for commuting on it and being too lazy to replace the chain sooner. What is the cheapest way to replace it? It looks like I can get a 105 chainring for about £65. Or for another £25 just buy a complete 105 chainset... Just wanted to double check before I click buy.
    If you've only just replaced the chain it may be worth holding off for a few miles as a new chain will often 'bed-in' on slightly worn rings. If the rings are significantly worn though replacing them is the only option :? .

    Unfortunately I think it's time for a replacement. It slips when I try and push off from traffic lights etc and doesn't feel particularly safe.
  • fenixfenix Posts: 5,437
    What does the ring look like ?

    The cassette wears far more quickly. I replace my cassette a lot more than the rings.

    You may find the 50t slipping more as you're using it for more power rather than climbing ?
  • Fenix wrote:
    What does the ring look like ?

    The cassette wears far more quickly. I replace my cassette a lot more than the rings.

    You may find the 50t slipping more as you're using it for more power rather than climbing ?

    The cassette is fine, I've been through quite a few on this chainset. The front chainring has seen just over 15,000 miles, but I think it was commuting on it through winter over the last 2-3000 miles and not changing my chain which did it in.
  • fenixfenix Posts: 5,437
    Sounds fair enough then ! :-)
  • crankycrankcrankycrank Posts: 1,830
    I'm guessing you'll be better off buying the whole new chainset and then sell off the old one as individual pieces for those looking for just one crankarm or inner chainring (provided it's still good).
  • Yea fair point. I ended up ordering the whole chainset. Haven't fitted one before but looks fairly straight forward.
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Prhymeate wrote:
    Yea fair point. I ended up ordering the whole chainset. Haven't fitted one before but looks fairly straight forward.

    Hollowtech 2 chainsets are easy if you have the little plastic tool for the preload cap. Remember to loosen the 2 pinch bolts on the LH crank before unscrewing the plastic preload cap from the end of the spindle.
    Remove both pinch bolts, washers and the little plastic safety tab.
    Whip off the LH crank, sit the chain on the BB shell and withdraw the chainset / spindle.
    Fitting the new one is the reverse. Slide it through the BB, make sure it's fully home with a tap from a rubber mallet or a whack with the flat of your hand. Put the chain back on.
    Put the LH crank on and loosely fit the pinch bolts with washers and the safety tab so it's little pin drops into the hole in the crank.
    Screw in the preload cap just enough to remove any play. Just finger tight with the little tool.
    Then nip up the pinch bolts alternately, preferably with a torque wrench. (although I've been using just Allen keys and a bit of caution for 50 years...)
  • keef66 wrote:
    ....Remove both pinch bolts, washers ....

    Removing them should not be required - it should be appropriate to just loosen them off to remove the LH crank arm; obviously removing the preload cap and flipping out the little tab.
  • All fitted today and working fine! Thanks for all the help :)
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    keef66 wrote:
    ....Remove both pinch bolts, washers ....

    Removing them should not be required - it should be appropriate to just loosen them off to remove the LH crank arm; obviously removing the preload cap and flipping out the little tab.

    I suppose I always remove them for a clean and a spot of grease before refitting. Since the OP was fitting a new chainset complete, presumably with clean, shiny new bolts etc, you're correct.
  • cgfw201cgfw201 Posts: 669
    ^replaced rings on my 6800 recently without anything more than the right sized torx key. no need to remove cranks.
  • ravey1981ravey1981 Posts: 1,111
    cgfw201 wrote:
    ^replaced rings on my 6800 recently without anything more than the right sized torx key. no need to remove cranks.

    Cool story. He's replacing the chainset though.
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