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Ooops

mathematicsmathematics Posts: 453
edited September 2018 in MTB buying advice
OK so if you're looking for today's idiot - look no further. You've found him. Me!

I've been having issues with my rear brake being a bit powerless and losing it's firmness. Well after many investigations the culprit is found! The bleed nipple is weeping. Now the oops part! It turns out the weep is down to me over tightening at some point meaning the bleed bolt will not tighten properly causing the weep. The calliper is now pretty much dead as I don't have a tapping kit so its not really financially viable.

Now moving forward do I replace the caliber like for like? Do I upgrade, if so what to? Can i upgrade just the calliper, is it worth it?

Chris

Posts

  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Brakes are?
    I don't do smileys.

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  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,809
    Remove the nipple, apply bearing lock, insert nipple and 'nip it up' leave for 24 hours for the bearing lock to harden then tighten it down, job is, as they almost say, often a good 'un. Remove enough fluid to make sure it's as dry as possible when you do it.
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • mathematicsmathematics Posts: 453
    cooldad wrote:
    Brakes are?

    Sorry. I told you I was an idiot!!

    Deore 615
  • mathematicsmathematics Posts: 453
    The Rookie wrote:
    Remove the nipple, apply bearing lock, insert nipple and 'nip it up' leave for 24 hours for the bearing lock to harden then tighten it down, job is, as they almost say, often a good 'un. Remove enough fluid to make sure it's as dry as possible when you do it.

    Wow. Really? Will this still allow me to loosen the nipple for bleeding?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,809
    Yup, it's not a guaranteed fix but it's cheap and has a decent enough success rate to try, should have said, once it's hardened undo it slightly to break the thread locking effect before closing it up.

    If not any two piston Shimano calliper is compatible with your lever, but it's easier to stick with the same hose end type (straight or banjo, can't remember what the m615 has).
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • 02gf7402gf74 Posts: 1,168
    Are you saying the thread in the calliper is more or less stripped?

    Some option s drill and tap to larger bleed screw, shimano are M6 so next size is m7 (exists?) or m8 or imperial size.

    Possible to make another bleed port?

    Dore are lower end so either replace calliper or brake or use as excuse to upgrade to xtr or xtr.
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,852
    You can get a new caliper for about £25.
    For that price it's not worth the time and hassle trying to fix your knackered one.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

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  • mathematicsmathematics Posts: 453
    02GF74 wrote:
    Are you saying the thread in the calliper is more or less stripped?

    Some option s drill and tap to larger bleed screw, shimano are M6 so next size is m7 (exists?) or m8 or imperial size.

    Possible to make another bleed port?

    Dore are lower end so either replace calliper or brake or use as excuse to upgrade to xtr or xtr.

    Yeah the caliber is done!!

    I think JBA is spot on, its n to worth faffing with - may try a little experiment with tapping for a new bleed screw but not sure i can get one!
  • mathematicsmathematics Posts: 453
    Going for a new calliper for my hard tail, swapped the calliper to my full sus so I could ride it.

    Will a M6000 calliper Work with a m615 lever?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,809
    Yes
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
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