1x9 conversion help please
BlueDynamo
Posts: 143
I've recently upgraded my old Carrera Fury Mountain Bike to 1x9 to use as a commuter.
I've retained the use of the original 2008 SRAM X-7 9-speed Rear Mech which doesn't have a clutch and bought a narrow-wide single 34t chainring at the front.
1) When in the largest cog at the back does it look as though the chain could be made slightly shorter looking at the angle of the rear mech pulleys? I used the method described in the Park Tool video on sizing chains @ 4:03. I've added 4 rivets to the reference rivets as per 6:44 on the video but I'm not sure if I've followed the instructions correctly as this may only apply to hardtails with 1x systems, 11/12 cassettes and SRAM derailleurs? I only satisfy 3 of those criteria?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0YibMDWBAw
2) Do I need a seat tube mounted chain keeper? The chain seems to have a habit of falling off when I'm fettling on the workstand and I get the feeling this will only be worse when riding. If so, what chain keeper would you recommend?
Is there anything else I need to consider?
I've retained the use of the original 2008 SRAM X-7 9-speed Rear Mech which doesn't have a clutch and bought a narrow-wide single 34t chainring at the front.
1) When in the largest cog at the back does it look as though the chain could be made slightly shorter looking at the angle of the rear mech pulleys? I used the method described in the Park Tool video on sizing chains @ 4:03. I've added 4 rivets to the reference rivets as per 6:44 on the video but I'm not sure if I've followed the instructions correctly as this may only apply to hardtails with 1x systems, 11/12 cassettes and SRAM derailleurs? I only satisfy 3 of those criteria?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0YibMDWBAw
2) Do I need a seat tube mounted chain keeper? The chain seems to have a habit of falling off when I'm fettling on the workstand and I get the feeling this will only be worse when riding. If so, what chain keeper would you recommend?
Is there anything else I need to consider?
"One thing that is worse than Carlton Kirby: people complaining about Carlton Kirby.
Talk about first world problems."
The_Boy, 13/4/14, Paris-Roubaix 2014 "spoiler" thread
Talk about first world problems."
The_Boy, 13/4/14, Paris-Roubaix 2014 "spoiler" thread
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Comments
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Put the ring on the inside of the spider, where the middle ring would go and try that.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
Measure your chainline and that will determine where the front ring needs to go, but as said most likely in the middle. Put it into smallest gear, make sure the derailleur doesn't go too far back so that the top jockey wheel rubs on the chain. Then go ride it and see what, if any, problems you have.0
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You shouldn't need a chainkeeper, I have two bikes running nine speed mechs with NW rings, neither runs any other chain retention.
The China looks like it may be possible to lose a pair of links but it's marginal, it won't be too long so I'd just leave it.
As above, less pretty but the best chainline is almost certainly in the middle location.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Thanks all. It took me ages to figure out what the replies meant about moving the single ring inside the spider! Kind of obvious in hindsight. The chain line looks a lot better now.
I also shortened the chain yesterday as I think it was a couple of links too long previously. It just needs indexing now before it's good to go."One thing that is worse than Carlton Kirby: people complaining about Carlton Kirby.
Talk about first world problems."
The_Boy, 13/4/14, Paris-Roubaix 2014 "spoiler" thread0 -
That looks spot on!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
