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Constant front tyre punctures

slc123slc123 Posts: 407
edited December 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all,

I seem to be suffering with constant punctures in my front tyre. I upgraded the front wheel following a crash and the other one buckled. I went for a fairly cheap option of the Mavic Crossride. Slightly wider than the standard ones but recommended tyres sizes were 1.4 - 2.7. I am currently running Maxxis Ardent 2.25.

I don't see any major problem with this setup, but since the change I manage to get a puncture every week. I've checked the inside of the tyre and can't see anything that could cause repeat punctures.

Anything else to look for?

Thanks
Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)

Posts

  • Have you checked the inside of the rim for spokes poking through the rim tape or any abrasive edges on the rim,
  • LagrangeLagrange Posts: 652
    Also clean out the tyre carcass and maybe consider freeride tubes.
  • oxomanoxoman Posts: 8,851
    Apart from what's already mentioned above are you running the pressure a bit low and getting pinch punctures.
    Too many bikes according to Mrs O.
  • slc123slc123 Posts: 407
    I’ve checked the inside of the tyre a couple of times and not seen any issues and the wheel is about 6 months old and can’t see any signs of spokes or rough edges.

    I’m running tyres at 30-35 depending on conditions. Maybe I just need some better quality tubes that can handle it a bit better!
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • JGTRJGTR Posts: 1,404
    Go tubeless, no punctures.
  • mattyfezmattyfez Posts: 638
    It helps to identify the nature of the punctures, is the carcass being pierced by thorns, is it pinching on the rim?
    I weigh 95kg and get pinch punctures under about 30psi if I'm riding hard.

    I have also changed to branded tubes, usually continental or specialized, they seem more reliable than the generic cheaper ones., and i run quite lightweight fragile tyres, ron /ralph evo.
  • I run the same tyre, and dont suffer i am around 90 kgs and run about 35 in the front, the original inner tubes my bike came with were awful, i have since bought conti inner tubes that as of yet have not punctured.

    It's worth scouring EbAY for decent inner tubes as i got 4 for £20 whereas the shop i got them from originally charged me £8 for one.

    have you checked you're not pinching the tube when installing?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    So where on the tube is it puncturing? by the valve, same place, pinch flats, through the tyre or on the wheel rim side?

    That will narrow it down quite a bit!
  • JGTRJGTR Posts: 1,404
    Go tubeless, no punctures
  • konaguy49konaguy49 Posts: 1,722
    As a few have said, go tubeless, its honestly the best thing. no more irritating thorns or road debris causing sore thumbs. I did loads of conversions for people when I managed a workshop.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    why I am still able to sell MTB inner tubes is beyond me.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • FishFishFishFish Posts: 2,152
    why I am still able to sell MTB inner tubes is beyond me.

    I think it is because people buy them. :D
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • slc123slc123 Posts: 407
    Thanks for the info guys. So managed a couple of good rides with no issues. Of the two latest punctures one was in the centre and one was on the edge of the tube so didn’t feel conclusive. Will see how I get on and hope the last 5 were just a bad coincidence!
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • RockmonkeySCRockmonkeySC Posts: 15,247
    FishFish wrote:
    why I am still able to sell MTB inner tubes is beyond me.

    I think it is because people buy them. :D

    It's worth carrying a tube even when running tubeless. I've had punctures in tubeless tyres which failed to seal with the latex solution.
    I never buy tubes though. I've found some many abandoned by the side of trails which just needed a patch.
  • slc123slc123 Posts: 407
    So, as I am building a new bike I've picked up a set of Easton tubeless ready wheels. Any advice on the best valves/sealant or are they pretty much all the same...

    Also, is a charge pump really necessary or standard floor pump going to do the job?

    Thanks
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • JGTRJGTR Posts: 1,404
    Gorilla tape works and is the cheapest option, I used Stans tape which also worked well. Try specific valves for your rims if they make them then you’ll know they will fit, otherwise any universal valve should be fine. Hard to say if a track pump will be ok as all wheels and tyres will be different. I’ve always used a standard track pump, can be a pain in the censored sometimes but always managed to pump my tyres up, worst case stick a tube in, pump it up then remove it.
  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,301
    I've never managed to make the inner tube trick work as I seem to end up dislodging so much of the bead from the rim when I'm pulling out the tube that I end up back to square one!

    I've only ever used Gorilla tape and Stans fluid / Stans valves. I did need to make up a coke bottle inflator though as my single barrel Blackburn track pump failed miserably to get anywhere. Since then I've had a couple of successes with the track pump, but mostly needed a rapid inflator, so I made a fire extinguisher one.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
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