CAAD12 or Build my Own?

PeteK25

Is it worth it to build my own bike or just purchase a complete CAAD12 105 for around $1,400. Thinking about building a Bowman Palace R, but will be around $2k ($750 for Frame, $400 for Shimano 5800, $170 for Easton Bar, Stem, and Seat Post, $80 for Fizik Arione VS saddle, which leaves me about $600 - $800 for wheels). Is building this bike out worth the $600 - $800 difference with these specs or will CAAD12 still be better?

letap73

Very much a personal thing - the Bowman palace geometry suits me better and I prefer the threaded bottom bracket, obviously you can also choose your own components. That said the Caad 12 has an excellent reputation and is good value for money.

Hendrix2430

I have a better idea... buy a CAAD12 frame and build your own : the frame is that good IMO.

PeteK25

letap73 wrote:

Very much a personal thing - the Bowman palace geometry suits me better and I prefer the threaded bottom bracket, obviously you can also choose your own components. That said the Caad 12 has an excellent reputation and is good value for money.

Good point! The CAAD12 does have quite a long reach, so Bowman might be better suited for me.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cannondale-caad12-2017-52,bowman-palace-r-2017-52/

Tiesetrotter

I got a complete CAAD12 disc on insurance replacement. It wasn't a good idea. I am changing:
Saddle
Stem & Bars
Wheels
and then the groupset.

Frame is good though.

Matthewfalle

Is that RRP or real prices for the bits?

PeteK25

Matthewfalle wrote:

Is that RRP or real prices for the bits?

Those are real prices based on a quick search. I'm sure I can find slightly better pricing once I actually go to buy and spend the time to research further.

Matthewfalle

You'll save a load of sounds bu shopping around and getting last years stuff - generally exactly the same as this years but a different coloured stripe.

Last years Ultegra is also low hundreds as opposed to high hundreds for this years so another load saved.

Building your own bike is ultimately very satisfying but it's a heart/head things.

singleton

Make sure you compare like with like for your price comparison. You say that the bowman will cost $2k with $600-$800 wheels, but I think a CAAD12 105 comes with Mavic Aksium WTS which are not $600 wheels.

I bought a CAAD12 and then spent some money changing the wheels and I am very happy with the result.

arlowood

PeteK25 wrote:

letap73 wrote:

Very much a personal thing - the Bowman palace geometry suits me better and I prefer the threaded bottom bracket, obviously you can also choose your own components. That said the Caad 12 has an excellent reputation and is good value for money.

Good point! The CAAD12 does have quite a long reach, so Bowman might be better suited for me.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cannondale-caad12-2017-52,bowman-palace-r-2017-52/

Not sure you are comparing like with like. The CAAD12 52 is closer to the 54 in the Bowman Palace frame dimensions if you look at the detailed figures for each. The ETT for the 52 CAAD is 534 vs 535 for the 54 Bowman. The reach of the 52 CAAD is 381 vs 375 for the Bowman.

Essentially with comparable frames the CAAD will still have the longer reach due to its more race style geometry.

Personally I would but the Bowman frame and build it up - always more satisfying IMHO

Matthewfalle

Oh - and it's pretty easy to build a bike as well, so fret ye not in that regard.

sloppyschleckonds

The CAAD has internal cable routing, lighter frame, better fork and clearances for 28mm tyres.

daniel_b

Matthewfalle wrote:

Oh - and it's pretty easy to build a bike as well, so fret ye not in that regard.

It is! Even for a ham fisted clown like me.

Not too many tools needed either really, and they will pay for themselves in no time.

I built my Scott up from scratch, and it's a lovely (And light) bike imho, all the more so as I chose and sourced every single part to my desired spec - so Ultegra 6800, specific Mavic wheels I was after, Arione 00 saddle, Ritchey Carbon seatpost, stem and bars, Fizik bartape etc etc.
Even down to tiny details like a Fizik seatpost ring, coloured cable donuts, and metal valve caps.

New bikes I have bought, (Admittedly I am a fussy bugger) I invariably end up changing the seatpost, saddle, stem, handlebars and of course tape - so it's not as economically sound (for me) as it might be for others.

rolf_f

Matthewfalle wrote:

Building your own bike is ultimately very satisfying but it's a heart/head things.

It is but perhaps the opposite way round to the way you meant. Yes, build your own costs more in the short term but if it teaches you how to do everything with confidence then not only do you save a small fortune over the years in servicing, you also enjoy riding the bike more because you can tweak things as they go out of tune rather than waiting til you have enough that isn't right to justify getting it serviced again. And getting someone else to do it probably means you are without the bike for a day or two which shouldn't be a problem for the DIYer.

Of course, once you've learned those skills you don't need to learn them again and the built bike makes more sense!

Matthewfalle

No - we're both looking at it the same way - infra seriatim.

Matthewfalle

Daniel B wrote:

Matthewfalle wrote:

Oh - and it's pretty easy to build a bike as well, so fret ye not in that regard.

It is! Even for a ham fisted clown like me.

Not too many tools needed either really, and they will pay for themselves in no time.

I built my Scott up from scratch, and it's a lovely (And light) bike imho, all the more so as I chose and sourced every single part to my desired spec - so Ultegra 6800, specific Mavic wheels I was after, Arione 00 saddle, Ritchey Carbon seatpost, stem and bars, Fizik bartape etc etc.
Even down to tiny details like a Fizik seatpost ring, coloured cable donuts, and metal valve caps.

New bikes I have bought, (Admittedly I am a fussy bugger) I invariably end up changing the seatpost, saddle, stem, handlebars and of course tape - so it's not as economically sound (for me) as it might be for others.

Picture of the Scott please.

daniel_b

Here you go - appreciate it is not to everyones taste, but it's a colourway I love



Have some all black Conti tyres to replace the Michelins, and also some Black and yellow Supacaz bar tape to replace the Fizik stuff, which is still very nice, but I just think it will look a tad better.

Matthewfalle

Ooh - that's nice. Hat.

Personally I'm thinking black bar tape, deep rim carbons and tan walls ....

daniel_b

Matthewfalle wrote:

Ooh - that's nice. Hat.

Personally I'm thinking black bar tape, deep rim carbons and tan walls ....

Cheers dude - pretty sure this is the bar tape I have planned for it:



Also bought some two tone stuff, black for half, and yellow for the other, but realising that was a bit pointless, as I only wrap my bars (If they are flat tops) to just beyond the hoods.

I have toyed with the idea of deep rim carbons, but it's a great climbing bike, and those wheels on there are something like 1400g, which is pretty good for clinchers, oh and they have yellow\carbon hubs and one yellow spoke on each!
Weight with those pedals was a tad under 7kg I think, now has Vectors fitted.

PeteK25

arlowood wrote:

PeteK25 wrote:

letap73 wrote:

Very much a personal thing - the Bowman palace geometry suits me better and I prefer the threaded bottom bracket, obviously you can also choose your own components. That said the Caad 12 has an excellent reputation and is good value for money.

Good point! The CAAD12 does have quite a long reach, so Bowman might be better suited for me.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cannondale-caad12-2017-52,bowman-palace-r-2017-52/

Not sure you are comparing like with like. The CAAD12 52 is closer to the 54 in the Bowman Palace frame dimensions if you look at the detailed figures for each. The ETT for the 52 CAAD is 534 vs 535 for the 54 Bowman. The reach of the 52 CAAD is 381 vs 375 for the Bowman.

Essentially with comparable frames the CAAD will still have the longer reach due to its more race style geometry.

Personally I would but the Bowman frame and build it up - always more satisfying IMHO

Based on the Bowman's geometry, should I really be riding a 54CM instead of 52CM? I'm currently still on my beginner bike (Vilano Forza 4.0, 2015 model) which is a 52CM and is about the perfect size for me. I'm 170CM tall with 75CM inseam...but I can't seem to find the Vilano geometry measurements to compare and since this bike isn't readily available, I don't think there is an option to test ride first.

arlowood

PeteK25 wrote:

arlowood wrote:

PeteK25 wrote:

letap73 wrote:

Very much a personal thing - the Bowman palace geometry suits me better and I prefer the threaded bottom bracket, obviously you can also choose your own components. That said the Caad 12 has an excellent reputation and is good value for money.

Good point! The CAAD12 does have quite a long reach, so Bowman might be better suited for me.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cannondale-caad12-2017-52,bowman-palace-r-2017-52/

Not sure you are comparing like with like. The CAAD12 52 is closer to the 54 in the Bowman Palace frame dimensions if you look at the detailed figures for each. The ETT for the 52 CAAD is 534 vs 535 for the 54 Bowman. The reach of the 52 CAAD is 381 vs 375 for the Bowman.

Essentially with comparable frames the CAAD will still have the longer reach due to its more race style geometry.

Personally I would but the Bowman frame and build it up - always more satisfying IMHO

Based on the Bowman's geometry, should I really be riding a 54CM instead of 52CM? I'm currently still on my beginner bike (Vilano Forza 4.0, 2015 model) which is a 52CM and is about the perfect size for me. I'm 170CM tall with 75CM inseam...but I can't seem to find the Vilano geometry measurements to compare and since this bike isn't readily available, I don't think there is an option to test ride first.

Don't get fixated on the numbers that manufacturers use to describe their frame sizes. It's the actual measurements that count. You already know that the Vilano Forza fits you perfectly so go take the measurements of the bike you have. Most important ones are the ETT (effective top tube) which is the horizontal distance between the centre of the steerer tube (where your stem is attached) and the centre of the seat tube (where your seat post is inserted). Another key figure is the length of the seat tube measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube where the seatr post is inserted. You can then see how these figures compare to the frames you are considering.

If you want you can also measure the frame stack and reach but it is a little more time consuming but not difficult. See the following link:-

https://rideonmagazine.com.au/how-to-me ... and-reach/

With all these parameters measured on the Vilano you can then decide what frame is the closest match.