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Transmission service - chain/cassete

ManuTeBikeManuTeBike Posts: 3
edited October 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello everyone, hope someone can help me with this.
After many years of smoking and intermittent sports, I gathered enough strength to quit smoking and start biking. First I used a bike from Decathlon until I ensured I liked this and bought my first MTB, a Conor 7200 with Shimano Altus. It was a budget one but it has worked great so far. A year later I couldn't resist starting with road cycling and got a Giant Defy 3 with Shimano Sora, the seller told me to come back when the bike had about 2.000 km, in order to check the chain. At about 2.500 km, at a different shop, I asked the mechanic whether I should change the chain or not, to what he answered "if the bike goes smooth and doesn't make any noise don't bother" since I'd have to change the cassette too whenever I change the chain. So far the road bike had 4.400 km and the MTB is about to reach 4.000 km. I took the road bike to service to a different shop and the mechanic told me the cassette change can be avoided if the chain is replaced on time. I ended up having to change both chain and cassette (the three smaller rings wouldn't engage properly and made noise) in the road bike (Giant Defy 3) everything for 66 €.

I got the MTB's chain (Conor 7200) broken somewhere about the 3.000 km and thankfully got from another rider a quicklink to fix it. The bike goes smooth and no noises, I just had to adjust the tension but otherwise seems to go flawlessly. So I don't know which advice should I take :? , whether change both chain and cassette right away or just wait until noises come up, just change the chain a no cassette. If anyone was in a similar position, I'd appreciate the advice.

Thanks

Posts

  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,601
    I just run mine until the stuff is worn out and replace the whole lot, but I tend to use cheaper end parts.
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  • cooldad wrote:
    I just run mine until the stuff is worn out and replace the whole lot, but I tend to use cheaper end parts.
    Thank you for your answer. Yeah I'm thinking about doing the same, the mechanic told me that if I don't service the transmission on time the chain rings also wear out so that'd be to add to the bill, which is not as cheap as the other two. But I guess it takes longer to wear out. Do you change these too or with the whole lot you meant chain/cassette?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    You have two choices (and it depends also on the parts you are using), run them until they are shot and have to replace more parts in one go at a greater single expense, or change the chain as soon as a chain checker tells you its worn and not have to change the other parts.

    I run relatively expensive cassettes (so much dearer than a chain) so it makes sense to change the £12-15 chain more often and make the cassette last longer, if you run a cheap cassette then former option makes more sense. There is no right or wrong answer it is what suites you with your budget and your preferences for parts.

    As an example on my commuter bike (road bike parts) the salty spray in winter means I usually only get 2 years or about 2000-2500miles out of chain before it looks rather scabby, by swapping then I can usually get about 2 or 3 chains worth of wear out the cassette and my last chainring lasted for about 7000miles and was still perfectly useable with a new chain when I removed it due to a change of crankset.
  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    If your just going to change the chain make sure you check and replace it at the right time because I've just recently done this and was a bit late. The new chain made noise on the bottom 5 gears so had to stick old chain back on.

    Seems I've not caught it in time and worn the bottom 5 sprockets on the cassette. (I did measure and size new chain correctly).
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