wolftooth roadlink lost top gear

cborrman

Have googled to no avail - does the wolftooth roadlink add or reduce cable tension?

have a 1X Qring up front, sram rival 10speed out back with the stock 11-28 cassette that came with that rear mech, 1) added roadlink with existing casette; all indexing ok except no top gear - would not go to 11t cog
2) installed 11-36 cassette, same issue. did a 50k ride and all ok with other gears, indexing, etc seems spot on.

anyone esle had this - is this a cable tension issue? or limit screws?

cycleclinic

the problem is simple with a roadlink you have exceeded the specs of the mech and it is not tracking the cassette properly. the rear mech should keep the same distance between the top jockey wheel and each sprocket but witht he road link it just can't. you will have to bring the top jockey wheel closer to the big sprocket and it might then be close enough to the 11t for it to go in. you might also need a bigger start cog. it all depends on hanger geometry.

fiddle with the B tension screw.

6wheels

Have you re-indexed the rear mech, reset the B screw and the limit screws? The rear mech can't be guaranteed to fall in the same position.

cborrman

thecycleclinic wrote:

the problem is simple with a roadlink you have exceeded the specs of the mech and it is not tracking the cassette properly. the rear mech should keep the same distance between the top jockey wheel and each sprocket but witht he road link it just can't. you will have to bring the top jockey wheel closer to the big sprocket and it might then be close enough to the 11t for it to go in. you might also need a bigger start cog. it all depends on hanger geometry.

fiddle with the B tension screw.

Hi thanks for this, however if I am not mistaken from what you are saying the roadlink and old cassette should have just worked, but there is no top gear on the existing cassette. So: remove roadlink with 11-28 cassette, all gears work; add roadlink with 11-28 cassette, lose top gear all other gears work; replace 11-28 with 11-32, still no top gear, all other gears work.

Have fiddled with b screw, thanks for this works better all the way in, but /me thinks tension is issue. thanks again for help and prompt reply!

cborrman

6wheels wrote:

Have you re-indexed the rear mech, reset the B screw and the limit screws? The rear mech can't be guaranteed to fall in the same position.

I am not that proficient (re-index), would take it in to my LBS, however where I am they get sniffy about doing small jobs like this and want to roll jobs into silver, platinum or bronze services 10 days out.... then to boot I have to listen to "this will not work, you are (a moron) mixing mtb and road stuff which simply will not work" (yes seriously - Evans Cycles Fulham)!

I think the roadlink has added or removed tension, just need to work out which and which way to turn barrel adjuster, or if not as you say it will need re indexing / the H screw playing with which will mean I have to bite the silver service bullet :roll: and listen to conventionals saying I am doing it all wrong lol

thanks for help

Ben6899

cborrman wrote:

6wheels wrote:

Have you re-indexed the rear mech, reset the B screw and the limit screws? The rear mech can't be guaranteed to fall in the same position.

I am not that proficient (re-index), would take it in to my LBS, however where I am they get sniffy about doing small jobs like this and want to roll jobs into silver, platinum or bronze services 10 days out.... then to boot I have to listen to "this will not work, you are (a moron) mixing mtb and road stuff which simply will not work" (yes seriously - Evans Cycles Fulham)!

I think the roadlink has added or removed tension, just need to work out which and which way to turn barrel adjuster, or if not as you say it will need re indexing / the H screw playing with which will mean I have to bite the silver service bullet :roll: and listen to conventionals saying I am doing it all wrong lol

thanks for help

Plenty of great LBSs in London; Evans Fulham... f*** them off.

cborrman

[/quote]

Plenty of great LBSs in London; Evans Fulham... f*** them off.[/quote]

Yep, never going back there again! Have booked in with a small independent lbs in batteries, see what comes!

svetty

Unless the cable loop to the rear mech is very short with a very tight radius of curvature it is unlikely that this is an issue. More likely the road-link is having a slight impact on the geometry as any slight mech hanger misalignment will be amplified by the longer reach of the extra link. Have you tried simply adjusting the limit screw to enable the mech to travel slightly further?

TBH if you don't have the expertise to index your gears properly I'd suggest mastering this will enable you to resolve your problem without too much difficulty - and you will have learned a basic bike skill as well

cborrman

Svetty wrote:

... Have you tried simply adjusting the limit screw to enable the mech to travel slightly further?

TBH if you don't have the expertise to index your gears properly I'd suggest mastering this will enable you to resolve your problem without too much difficulty - and you will have learned a basic bike skill as well

Thanks, tried b screw yes, no change I have learned over the years that no matter how much you try, certain tasks require a certain type of mind to do well, I can do everything on my bike, including cuttings steerers which for some reason amateur mechanics I know seem to shy away from, but gears I can be there for hours and still mess it up! When you see a pro do it with one hand while on the phone with the other in 5 mins - I leave it to the pros... not that taking it to your LBS guarantees that lol.

svetty

cborrman wrote:

Svetty wrote:

... Have you tried simply adjusting the limit screw to enable the mech to travel slightly further?

TBH if you don't have the expertise to index your gears properly I'd suggest mastering this will enable you to resolve your problem without too much difficulty - and you will have learned a basic bike skill as well

Thanks, tried b screw yes, no change I have learned over the years that no matter how much you try, certain tasks require a certain type of mind to do well, I can do everything on my bike, including cuttings steerers which for some reason amateur mechanics I know seem to shy away from, but gears I can be there for hours and still mess it up! When you see a pro do it with one hand while on the phone with the other in 5 mins - I leave it to the pros... not that taking it to your LBS guarantees that lol.

Not B-screw, limit screw :roll: :roll:

cborrman

[/quote]

Not B-screw, limit screw :roll: :roll:[/quote]

Doh! I don't play with high and low screws from experience, took it to Flag Cycles in Battersea and for a fair fee they reindexed it better than the Evans Fulham.

Was glad of the 36t rear (48t front) on Weymouth 70.3 bike leg, 1300m of ascent and 20% incline in places on a Tri bike :shock:

Thanks all for help

6wheels

It's good that you've let us know how it was resolved, many people don't.

dj58

cborrman wrote:

Not B-screw, limit screw :roll: :roll:[/quote]

Doh! I don't play with high and low screws from experience,[/quote]

I don't understand your reluctance to adjust the high and low limit screws. It is the first adjustment you make when setting up an RD, done manually without the cable attached and before fitting the chain. Unless you have some problem visually aligning the guide pulley with the low and high sprocket, it is quite straightforward.

See page 11 Adjustment, of Shimano dealer manual DM-RD0003-09-ENG.pdf http://si.shimano.com/#/en/search/Compo ... &type=ROAD