Ludo 1983 - Modernisation of "vintage" bike

Tazzy

Great looking bike.. I am recently building a 1980's Puch Mistral SLE. I changed the Weinmar brake caliper and levers with newer Shimano and Campag and it stops much better.

Matthewfalle

mumtaz.ay@gmail.com wrote:

Great looking bike.. I am recently building a 1980's Puch Mistral SLE. I changed the Weinmar brake caliper and levers with newer Shimano and Campag and it stops much better.

PIctures please!

defever

A long diarrhoea update.

Lack of fitness (i.e. couching):
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Since the crankset shenanigan, I’ve been quite dormant in cycling side of my life. Christmas and New Year and having recurring cold, I haven’t had the strength or the time to get my fitness back to do near 30mile round trip to work.

The crankset:
In the meantime though, I’ve been pootling on the bike for 2-5miles a week or so. The new Sachs crankset is just perfect. So no issue there.

The freewheel:
The 5 speed freewheel (Maillard 14 – 21t or 24t ,I think) has been slipping a bit under some tension so I followed RJ The Bike Guy on YouTube (How To Clean, Degrease and Lube a Bike Freewheel) advice: degreased with brake cleaner (carefully not to get the cleaner into the axle), and injected 2 stroke oil gently (!!). Well, it seems to work, no slipping so far and the bike is virtually silent whilst coasting! Amazing result. I liked the ratchet noise but I also like the silent coasting. The teeth don’t look bad at all so hopefully the freewheel can last for long time.



The quill stem:
I’m sort of moving on to the next semi-“modernisation” of the bike. It’s not really a modernisation but more of customisation. The bar reach has always been too far for my liking (actually the frame is too big for me anyway, but I can’t do anything about that!), so I got 80mm SR quill stem to replace the original 10.5mm SR stem to try.



The bar tape:
I also got a white cotton tape to try when the shorter stem is installed. Originally (and still currently) the Benotto shiny vinyl type tape was wrapped:



Benotto tape grip is so sketchy when wet so I thought I’d try a cotton tape (AND IN WHITE!) to see how I get on. I'm not too worried about cushioning for now, as I don't intend to do 60+min ride and I'm used to Benotto tape which has no cushioning. I like it that way, a narrow diameter bar instead of big fat spongy bar.

The bar!:
Currently the bar is 40cm centre-to-centre width Sakae Custom and it’s a tad too wide for my liking and commuting. My shoulder width is about that width but I thought I could go a bit narrower for compact feel. Like this Bianchi in a rather retro YouTube video:

Vintage Velo: Bianchi Specialissima Professionale




I’ve been looking for 37-38cm drop bar in the right price range. So far I missed Cinelli bar, and seen some unbranded “chrome” bars as well as some British Raleigh / Dawes bars. SR stem has 25.4mm diameter but does it matter much if the bar is 25.6 / 25.8mm or even 26mm? There were some ITM, 3TTT or Cinelli in 26mm out of my price range. Otherwise I can just wait for the right width Sakae bar to come up.

Brake hoods:
I’m not sure about this. As I’m trying to go for the “white” top look (i.e. white bar tape and saddle), I thought why not get white brake hoods. But there isn’t any that’s compatible with Weinmann and in white. Perhaps the brakes on the bike never came with a pair or that particular model never meant to have one. I found an interesting thread of someone asking similar question: Weinmann Brake Hoods

I see lots of this sort of types (big arch, super pointy cable outlet):



But I need this sort of “matchbox” type shape (straight back, stubby cable outlet):



So, probably no hood. Which I’m actually fine with, I don’t spend most of my time on the brakes anyways. I seem to be on the drop section most of the time, which I’m lead to believe how the old bikes were intended.

Saddle:
I’m trying to get the white coordination on the bar and saddle, if I can find the right saddle. And I’m not looking for one as the current Willier saddle is fine and I want the bar to be sorted first. But then finding a saddle is such a minefield. Different sizes and shapes, cutouts, grooves, noseless…

Are any of these generally comfortable and fit the "80s period"?:

Selle Monte Grappa Canard Saddle


Selle GW 665002Mens MTB Saddle Cycling Seat Bike Saddle


Selle Italia X2 Sportive Mans Bike Saddle - Road / Off Road Saddle White


Selle Italia X1 Flow Saddle | White


Are there any difference to MTB and road bike saddles? Maybe the X2 Sportive saddle might be the safest bet, as it's intended for leisure "sportive" riders.

Thank you and well done for reading the whole thing. What do you think of these changes??

Happy cycling!

Matthewfalle

Lots of cool retro saddles at Planet X Cycles or get one of those nubuk covered Selle Italia SLRs they have: they look very cool and the contrast with the brown saddle and the bike will rock.

I now have a green saddle on the Peugeot Vitus thing (bare polished Ali frame) with white handlebar tape and it rocks.

I am presuming that a road saddle will be thinner (both width and depth) for less chafing. Most probably lighter as well. Also a different shape for sit bones?

Matthewfalle

Brown hoods to go with delicious nubuk saddle?


https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BLDC204/d ... ers--brown

Matthewfalle

Loads of retro handlebars as well

https://www.planetx.co.uk/s?q=Handlebars

defever

I don't know if brown goes well with the neon blue frame, though Matt?? If it's a lighter or white frame then I'd consider brown saddle and hoods as you found, but with blue frame? I'm not too sure... It's not that "vintage" to boast browness, I think?

But thanks for the links to planet X website, though. Very useful!

And your Vitus, I really like the all-metal look. And because of the silver frame any colour will complement the bike whatever the colour you go for the tape and saddle. The more I look at your Vitus photo on page 1, the more sleek it looks!

Matthewfalle

Hi

Actually I'm not sure - it's difficult to tell from the pictures whether the frame could pull it off - it'll either look brilliant or rubbish with no i between.

You could always order the bits, try them and if they look rubbish send them back.

Admittedly a lot of faffing around for something that may not work though.......

If the blue in the frame is the same as the blue tape in the Benetto advert above it may work.

Thank you very much indeed re the kind comments on the Peugeot Vitus thing. It may actually get ridden this year..... Then again .......

defever

Some (poor) photo upload:

Sachs crankset has been great so far. I regained my confidence on the bike again.


Handles change next (and then saddle):


Currently 10cm SR stem + 41.5cm Sakae drop bar with blue Benotto tape and Wienmann levers (no idea of the model):


I have 8cm SR stem, 38cm ITM drop bar and white cotton tape ready for a swap, but will have to wait until February half term to take it to a LBS (wondering if it's good timing to get the the headset serviced as well).

I offered ITM bar to the bike and the ITM drop falls on the inside of the current bar so I think that's quite ok to trial narrower bar and see how I go. The drop isn't as deep as Sakae, but I like the compact feel. Let's see how the "white top" looks on Ludo.

Happy cycling!

Matthewfalle

Why are you taking it to the lbs? We can guide you through whatever you want to do and the money you would have spent at the lbs you can spend on beer.

defever

Matthewfalle wrote:

Why are you taking it to the lbs?

Reason 1: I agree with the philosophy of "support the local business" (though I am contradicting myself here by buying cheap things on eBay from a seller half the world away...).

Reason 2: One of the mechanic at the LBS used to live in Belgium and knows quite a lot about the Belgian cycling scene in the 80s (he recognised my bike); nice to have a good rapport with the mechanic (plus he said my bike takes him back to the "Belgian days"!).

Reason 3: Last couple of visits and servicing by them was very reasonable and professional.

Reason 4: I should be doing some work instead of fettling with my bike (poor time management habit).

Reason 5: I think I'm going to mess up the bar tape wrapping...

On another note, I found an interesting thread for some handle bar inspiration:

Bikeforums.com: Who is using cloth h'bar tape?

I might get the cheap white saddle from eBay just to rebel against you Matt! It's cheap enough, I can always get another in brown if it doesn't work out (or swap from time to time).

Happy cycling!

defever

I've done 75miles so far this week, feels like my fitness is back.
Couple of PBs and lots of Top 1 on Strava segments (well it's only been 26 day since the ranking was reset for 2018...).

The bike feels exceptionally smooth. Oiling the freewheel seems to made a huge difference.
Also not lugging the heavy D-lock and work stuff everywhere in my back pack helps reduce weight.

Just out of curiosity, I just measured top tube C-C: approximately 57cm!
I'm 5'6" / 170cm, and with 10cm extension on the quill stem, no wonder I feel stretched out when I'm on the lever hoods...



I better get the front end sorted before the summer.

Happy cycling!

defever

I had an unexpected spare time this afternoon so I cleaned the bike and a sacrilegious idea came to my mind...

Out with the vintage...


In with the tube...




First time ever wrapping a bar. Wrapping wasn't as difficult as I tought. Only a temporary / practice of wrapping a bar tape (tube) before I commit with the new cotton tape (I decided to do it myself...). I cut an old inner tube lengthways to cover both sides of the bar. Because of this, it wasn't too bulky to wrap top to bottom (as to the modern bottom to top). It does peel around the hook, but it's okay; I wear winter gloves anyways.

The old Benotto tape had some rips and was starting to unravel around the hook. I was slightly surprised that it had no adhesive on the back; it was simply wrapped around and held it by the Velox bar end plug (the ones with the screw).

Another shoddy DIY.

Happy cycling!

defever

I couldn't wait until next week to do this...





















New: ITM 38cm drop bar, SR 60mm quill stem, white tape and cheap eBay Chinese saddle (ROCKBROS Cycling Bicycle Saddle MTB Road Bike Saddle Seat Steel Rail 3 Colors £9.99)

It looked a bit odd initially but it's settling in now. Experimenting with the saddle height/reach and stem height. 60+miles already on it, hands on hoods feels so much better. Saddle is surprisingly comfortable, too!

Next: white outer cables, new chain (stretched 100% already since Oct), headset service (I feel some play sometimes), and possibly new freewheel (maybe get a 6 speed?) – LBS next week for overall servicing + chatting.

Happy cycling!

Matthewfalle

sweet as my man - rockin'.

defever

OK, the cheap eBay saddle creaks on load. Sounds like coming fro the back end of the left rail.

It doesn't really bother me as I have SKS mudguard which rattles slightly going over uneven surface so I'm used to rattle / creak / added noise.

I'm going to see if I can inject some grease or lubricant to minimise the creak.

Otherwise, the bike is amazing. New found joy all around.

Happy cycling!

defever

White cables and headtube overhaul:



Matt, I have to admit, the mudguards are looking eyesore now. Maybe I look into a "removable" mud guards.

Matthewfalle

defever wrote:

OK, the cheap eBay saddle creaks on load. Sounds like coming fro the back end of the left rail.

It doesn't really bother me as I have SKS mudguard which rattles slightly going over uneven surface so I'm used to rattle / creak / added noise.

I'm going to see if I can inject some grease or lubricant to minimise the creak.

Otherwise, the bike is amazing. New found joy all around.

Happy cycling!

May just need the saddle, rails and tightening nuts taking off, cleaning, greasing up.

Agree re mudguards - they must go!

Looking well cool.

defever

Observation update:

Did around 100+miles with the new set up, and I've noticed something. The bike handling is perceptively twitchier than before.

I'm assuming it's due to shorter stem and narrower bar. I'll get used to it, but something I noticed since the new step up. It's definitely better with the new set up than the old set up; I'm not over reaching and back ache is much less frequent.

GCN had a video about stem length last Oct: What's The Best Stem Length For You? | GCN Does Science
I agree with their observation.

Now, removable mudguard or not?
Crud Roadracer Mk3 or not?:



Happy cycling!

defever

It's been a while...

Since my last post, the workload has increased, longer hours, mental fatigue, and nearly daily 28 mile round commute has become unsustainable. I'm cycling much less now, 1 or 2 times a week (25 - 50 miles or so).

Overall Ludo has been good most of the time. The white bar tape is now well "run in", lots of black chain oil and general stains and also some rips (I slipped on white road mark and fell quite spectacularly on a rainy day!).

There's one niggle. Chain drop.

The chain keeps dropping and I have to stop and look for a twig to put it back on (hence the oil stain on the bar...). I changed the chain to a thinner 9 speed chain (improved a bit), shortened the length, adjusted the rear derailleur limiter, but it still drops. In the end I realised that the spring on Huret derailleur sticks a bit and the hinge at the hanger has become stiff (perhaps misaligned?):



I gave a good clean, brushed, and sprayed a good amount of silicone spray which improved quite a lot. For one ride. Then drops again, especially going down to the small sprocket (which is quite annoying as I'm picking up speed and suddenly I lose the drive). The derailleur can't keep the tension as the gear is changed so the chain goes slack, enough to bounce out of the teeth on the chainring. It sort of puts me off.

After some online research, I realised that this derailleur is a budget product (the fact that it has integrated hanger to the frame). Second-hand replacement on eBay is ridiculous: they all look tired, or even worse than mine. NoS replacement is equally ridiculous; expensive. Very few identical replacement (few in Germany with big postage cost), and plenty of better Sachs derailleur, which I'm not interested as it'll just get ruined again quickly.

So I'm pondering whether it's time to ditch the rear derailleur and go simple. The front derailleur was ditched over a year ago (for exactly same reason; ceased from being exposed to crud). I had no problem with only 5 speed to select. In fact I mainly use the three smallest sprocket most of the time (14, 17, 19T), with occasional 24T on a steep hill. I'm going to try to stick to the middle sprocket (19T) to see if single speed is suitable for my need.

With 52T chainring, that's 72.49 Gear Inches, 19.4mph at 90rpm, 2.74 gear ratio.

14.5mile ride this morning was tolerable; managed surprisingly ok on the steepest hill (it was harder than usual but not as bad as I expected), bottomed out quite quickly on the downhill but I'm okay with that and still managed 30+mph top speed by ducking (it also helps me realise that commuting isn't racing). I won't ever get into racing or group rides so maybe single speed isn't that bad option for simplicity.

When we have our own house with a garage and the facility to look after the bike regularly (and get a separate commuter bike) then I’d like to restore it fully for occasional nostalgic leisure use. But in the current circumstance, I just don’t feel it’s viable to keep replacing the parts.

So the experiment of single gear begins.

Happy cycling everyone!

defever

Goodbye mudguard!

I decided to remove the mudguard, realising that in the last 12months, I only cycled in the rain for 13 days. I somehow have avoided riding in wet a lot more than I thought. Should I feel I need mudguard again I think I'll get Crud Roadracer removable mudguard. Definitely a psychological effect, but the bike feels much more nimble!

I gave a thorough clean yesterday now that the mudguards are off. I took the cranks as well. I also applied T-cut on the frame. The frame looks much better but it also brought out little rust spots more prominent, especially on the chain stay. I’ll need to do something about that.

Re: rear derailleur, I’ve been on 52-19 gear for over 160miles and I’ve got used to it. No problem with hills, I learned how to anticipate hills, stand up with very low RPM, and cycle in high RPM on flats. I probably won’t remove the rear derailleur completely yet, as it seems to behave whenever I test gear change.

A new found joy with this bike again.