FSA crank removal - idiot check

reformedfatty

Hi,
trying to diagnose / fix a creak on my 2017 Pinnacle Arkose 2. It has the original FSA Omega crankset with the self extracting bit looking the same as in this and other FSA videos (but it's an 8mm allen key instead if that makes any difference) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsDEP5Ljd3E
The problem I'm having is that the inner bit loosens slightly initially, but then it just tightens and I can't shift it past that point using either allen keys or a ratchet set. I'm turning it exactly as shown in the video so not the wrong way...

What am I missing? is it possible that the self extractor bit has been broken somehow previously? if so is it circlip pliars to undo the outer and remove it or ???

Cheers

redvee

I had the same issues as you with my FSA crankset but wasn't sure till I saw the LBS simply undo it all with an allen key. Just try harder as it will come undone.

keef66

That's how a self-extracting crank is meant to work. Initially you are just loosening the retaining bolt so it will rotate freely at first, but then it hits the screw-in cap and suddenly becomes much harder to turn as it is trying to pull the crank off the spindle. Assuming you are using decent, tight fitting tools, just give it a bit more welly!

i.bhamra

An old seatpost placed over your allen key/ratchet handle is a good way to get some extra leverage in situations like this. It'll turn pretty easily!

reformedfatty

Yeah with a significant amount of extension bar it eventually shifted... way beyond the stated torque range though, reckon this was put together by an idiot with gorilla arms. BB bearings feel ok so just whip it out and regrease right? nope mr gorilla has been at work here too - got the non drive side off with a long hollowtech 2 wrench, the other side I've got a HT2 socket in a vice and am trying to turn the frame for leverage - so far it's turning the vice or the bench, so leaving it overnight with a bunch of penetrating oil in it.

Can't believe it's this much grief on a bike that's seen less than a years use!

Last time I had this much grief it was a second hand mtb frame and attempting to remove a stuck HT2 cup resulted in the entire cup shearing off - had to get the BB threads retapped after that one!

i.bhamra

Without meaning to sound insulting are you sure you are turning it in the correct direction.....speaking from experience here!!

reformedfatty

i.bhamra wrote:

Without meaning to sound insulting are you sure you are turning it in the correct direction.....speaking from experience here!!

Whenever working with bottom brackets I tend to have one of my HT2 equipped bikes nearby so that I can constantly double / triple check against the Tighten -> writing they very wisely put on the cups

edit :

Overnight soaking in penetrating oil and again far more force than should have been required and it's out. Munged the cups quite a bit though when it slipped out the socket but thankfully the threads look fine.

New Shimano one on the way. Nothing wrong with the bearings in this one as far as I can tell, but it's annoyed me and it looks a bit untidy now so there we are.

i.bhamra

I remember the spindle diameter on FSA Omega being smaller than Shimano cranks (19mm vs 24mm), do Shimano make a suitable BB for your FSA crankset?

reformedfatty

i.bhamra wrote:

I remember the spindle diameter on FSA Omega being smaller than Shimano cranks (19mm vs 24mm), do Shimano make a suitable BB for your FSA crankset?

Thanks for pointing this out... I hate 'standards'

Here's hoping the BCD is compatible so I can swap the chaingrings onto a sensible crankset! I have a horrible suspicion it won't be.

redvee

reformedfatty wrote:

Here's hoping the BCD is compatible so I can swap the chaingrings onto a sensible crankset! I have a horrible suspicion it won't be.

IIRC my FSA was 4.33" BCD