Noob Question for a Noob Rider
arfinding1996
Posts: 5
Hello everyone, I hope all is well. I went on my first official training ride this morning and let me tell you it's way harder than it looks. Fortunately, I managed to make it to my 10-mile milestone. I just have one question that I hope some of you more experienced riders can help me out on. I live in a relatively hilly area and those hills were just killing me. I could not figure out which gear selection is best to use for climbing. If it helps, I am riding on a 2004 P2K Cervelo TT bike equipped with a Shimano 105 10s groupset. Now, I know a TT bike isn't the best option for a beginner but it's all I have right now.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
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Comments
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Gear selection is personal it depends on a lot of factors.
Try and keep your leg speed constant throughout. Use the gears to enable this. So aim for 80rpm. Go to easier gears as you encounter uphills.and harder gears on the way down.
Cycling is easy so you're probably not using the gears properly.
Check out the GCN YouTube channel. They have helpful stuff on there.0 -
Fairly new to Road bikes myself and find gearing use much diferent to my MTB. Watched a few of the gcn videos.
Advice I've gleaned is big ring up front for downhill and fairly level flats. On the rear once you get to the 4th largest cog drop down on to the small ring on the front, may want to go up 1 or 2 on the rear.
For undulating and uphill stay in the small on the front . Looking ahead and plan the gear you think you need in advance.
Working for me as a Base point.0 -
Think of it as driving a car. Change down when the revs drop and the engine is labouring, change up when the engine is over revving. There is no hard and fast "correct" gear. Especially when the engine output is variable.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Do NOT wear long socks0
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PBlakeney wrote:Think of it as driving a car. Change down when the revs drop and the engine is labouring, change up when the engine is over revving. There is no hard and fast "correct" gear. Especially when the engine output is variable.
Except always look to be looking to change down (easier) rather than up.0 -
I had some cycling socks on dont worry.JGSI wrote:Do NOT wear long socks0 -
cougie wrote:Gear selection is personal it depends on a lot of factors.
Try and keep your leg speed constant throughout. Use the gears to enable this. So aim for 80rpm. Go to easier gears as you encounter uphills.and harder gears on the way down.
Cycling is easy so you're probably not using the gears properly.
Check out the GCN YouTube channel. They have helpful stuff on there.
I see. I'll check them out as soon as I can. Thank you very much, good sir.0 -
PBlakeney wrote:Think of it as driving a car. Change down when the revs drop and the engine is labouring, change up when the engine is over revving. There is no hard and fast "correct" gear. Especially when the engine output is variable.
Wow I never thought about it that way. I drive a manual car so I can see how this can help. Thank you!0 -
For going up hill smallest cog at front and largest at back is the easiest.
To go fast the opposite is fastest largest cog at the front and smallest at back, assuming you can pedal fast in that gear !0 -
'Cos it looks stupid when you see people wearing footie socks whilst cycling (triathletes).Zmac31 wrote:
Why not?JGSI wrote:Do NOT wear long socks
Also to the OP, maybe check your gearing ratios as TT bikes don't usually have a big enough range for steep hills.Cannondale SS Evo Team
Kona Jake CX
Cervelo P50 -
If you haven't already got one fitted to your bicycle, try a 12-30T CS-4600 or CS-6700 cassette.0
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As initimated above, the TT bike may not be equipped for hills - by its nature.
TT bikes often have a lowest cog of 25 on the back. Most bikes on hills would have at least a 28. Maybe a 30 (less common) or a 32.0 -
I am pretty experience rider (for a weekend warrior) and i live also in a hilly place. You will not survive on the hills without changing your crankset to compact the cog at least on 28 teeth. The cog is cheaper, (around 50-70 euros) so do that by Monday.
The goal is to keep spinning on around 70 per minute and above. The correct gear is the gear that allows you to do that.0 -
ThatBikeGuy wrote:
Those will be compression socks which apparently help with circulation or recovery or strains or something. That said I agree, they look stupid.
But we are talking about grown men/women wearing ridiculously tight, stretchy and thin material with no kegs or knickers on. Not sure that stupid looking socks are a real issue ;-)0 -
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Nonsense. Long socks are perfectly fine provided you wear the bib shorts shoulder straps over the top of your jersey.ThatBikeGuy wrote:Is the gorilla tired yet?0
