Zipp NSW rim turned brown

mtbrider123
mtbrider123 Posts: 102
edited August 2017 in Road general
My nsw rim for some reason turned brown. Does anyone know why, and how can this be removed?
(Wheel and break pads were both brand new)

Image: https://ibb.co/hiJJev

Thanks
«1

Comments

  • WTF are those disco slippers
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    It's fine, probably from your pads... leave them alone...

    Re. the blue shoes... they are all the rage now, a friend of mine has them in green
    left the forum March 2023
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Sweet shoes. Have you been doing long descents on the Zipps ?
  • I don't know what is a long descent for you but any wheel should be able to perform well on any descent, especially a 454. It's strange as this (brown stuff) is only on the front wheel
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Have you tried washing it off ? Or is it heat build up ? I've heard of people warping wheels with too much braking.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    Front wheel takes more of the braking... it's probably pad residue. I wouldn't worry the slightest
    left the forum March 2023
  • Front wheel takes more of the braking... it's probably pad residue. I wouldn't worry the slightest

    This
  • Front wheel takes more of the braking... it's probably pad residue. I wouldn't worry the slightest

    Don't think that it's pad residue as it's brown and pads are grey. As mentioned before, it looks like the wheel is overheating from lots of braking. Any suggestion on how to remove the brown stuff or anything else that I can do?
  • cougie wrote:
    Have you tried washing it off ? Or is it heat build up ? I've heard of people warping wheels with too much braking.

    Tried washing it off but no success. It's probably the wheel overheating from lots of braking. Any suggestion on how to remove the brown stuff?
  • Joeblack
    Joeblack Posts: 829
    Try a hard eraser (as in pencil eraser) it's time consuming but I removed the yellow residue on my mavics this way before I bought black pads.
    One plays football, tennis or golf, one does not play at cycling
  • mfin
    mfin Posts: 6,729
    I don't know what is a long descent for you but any wheel should be able to perform well on any descent, especially a 454
    Tried washing it off but no success. It's probably the wheel overheating from lots of braking.
  • Joeblack wrote:
    Try a hard eraser (as in pencil eraser) it's time consuming but I removed the yellow residue on my mavics this way before I bought black pads.

    It's not that... I had yellow residue on my mavics too and it removed it by switching to Zipp cork pads, no eraser was needed. The brown stuff is not residue from pads, it looks like the wheel got overheated
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    So that's just what I said then. What kind of descent was it ?
  • Are you using the supplied Tangente Platinum Pro Evo pads?
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    If you are unhappy,talk to Zipp directly... they did come back to me in the past and I was not even a customer.

    I still think it is pad residue, maybe overheated and burnt pad residue... it doesn't necessarily come off easily... it's not that when you burn stuff on your glass kitchen top it then comes off easily. I don't think there is a damage to the resin, otherwise you would feel it as you brake.

    We tend to over-worry about carbon, it's pretty tough stuff, expecially the good quality one
    left the forum March 2023
  • cougie wrote:
    So that's just what I said then. What kind of descent was it ?

    My first day was without any descent, and I've noticed the brown stuff. After that I tried all kinds of descents but nothing got better/worse (thought that the brown stuff can be erased by braking)
  • Are you using the supplied Tangente Platinum Pro Evo pads?
    Yes
  • If you are unhappy,talk to Zipp directly... they did come back to me in the past and I was not even a customer.

    I still think it is pad residue, maybe overheated and burnt pad residue... it doesn't necessarily come off easily... it's not that when you burn stuff on your glass kitchen top it then comes off easily. I don't think there is a damage to the resin, otherwise you would feel it as you brake.

    We tend to over-worry about carbon, it's pretty tough stuff, expecially the good quality one

    Thanks, I'm going to write to them and see what they'll say.
  • If you are unhappy,talk to Zipp directly... they did come back to me in the past and I was not even a customer.

    I still think it is pad residue, maybe overheated and burnt pad residue... it doesn't necessarily come off easily... it's not that when you burn stuff on your glass kitchen top it then comes off easily. I don't think there is a damage to the resin, otherwise you would feel it as you brake.

    We tend to over-worry about carbon, it's pretty tough stuff, expecially the good quality one

    Thanks, I'm going to write to them and see what they'll say.

    Hi there, I have the exact same issue, first I used the black prince, after having heart attack on a rainy day I switched to the supplied Tangente was way better but the brown area remained, I had two long descends (each combined to 4'000m, longest stretch 2'200) at the last one was raining hard and in the end the rear wheel was useless only the front braking worked. I'm on my way back home now, will try to clean the residue with some acetone and wash the pads as I'm not happy at all with today's breaking quality.

    Wonder if the brown shiny is actually the resin "rotting" away...

    Cheers,
    Dorin
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    dorin.boca wrote:
    If you are unhappy,talk to Zipp directly... they did come back to me in the past and I was not even a customer.

    I still think it is pad residue, maybe overheated and burnt pad residue... it doesn't necessarily come off easily... it's not that when you burn stuff on your glass kitchen top it then comes off easily. I don't think there is a damage to the resin, otherwise you would feel it as you brake.

    We tend to over-worry about carbon, it's pretty tough stuff, expecially the good quality one

    Thanks, I'm going to write to them and see what they'll say.

    Hi there, I have the exact same issue, first I used the black prince, after having heart attack on a rainy day I switched to the supplied Tangente was way better but the brown area remained, I had two long descends (each combined to 4'000m, longest stretch 2'200) at the last one was raining hard and in the end the rear wheel was useless only the front braking worked. I'm on my way back home now, will try to clean the residue with some acetone and wash the pads as I'm not happy at all with today's breaking quality.

    Wonder if the brown shiny is actually the resin "rotting" away...

    Cheers,
    Dorin

    With acetone you will do more damage than good.. you've been warned

    They're your wheels and do what you want, but I suggest you don't use solvents
    left the forum March 2023

  • With acetone you will do more damage than good.. you've been warned

    They're your wheels and do what you want, but I suggest you don't use solvents

    But how com Zipp shows in their videos to use acetone to clean when you replace the decals. I thought is shouldn't, not at visible level anyway, I use it frequently when cleaning rc planes/jets.

    I did write to Zipp abt the coloring/acetone/ and my inexisting break in the rain. I'll report back
  • dorin.boca wrote:

    With acetone you will do more damage than good.. you've been warned

    They're your wheels and do what you want, but I suggest you don't use solvents

    But how com Zipp shows in their videos to use acetone to clean when you replace the decals. I thought is shouldn't, not at visible level anyway, I use it frequently when cleaning rc planes/jets.

    I did write to Zipp abt the coloring/acetone/ and my inexisting break in the rain. I'll report back

    I noticed Reynolds and Enve both recommend using acetone to clean the rims. Zipp does it in the instructions to clean the decals, wonder why did you state acetone may damage the rims?

    Best,
    Dorin
  • turbotommy
    turbotommy Posts: 493
    The only reason I'd be careful using acetone is because you don't want it anywhere near your decals unless you want to remove them.

    I'd assume most people using tubs would use one solvent or another to clean them up? I know I do and haven't had any problems. Including 2 sets of zipp wheel.
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  • TurboTommy wrote:
    The only reason I'd be careful using acetone is because you don't want it anywhere near your decals unless you want to remove them.

    I'd assume most people using tubs would use one solvent or another to clean them up? I know I do and haven't had any problems. Including 2 sets of zipp wheel.

    NSW dont have decals, are embedded :)
  • Acetone will be fine on the wheels.
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Use acetone / nail polish remover on my 2016 404s with no problems at all.
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

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  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    While acetone might not damage the resin, it might dissolve your stuff and push it even further inside the carbon layer, as well as not... my problem is in terms of why do you want to clean your rims in the first place. It's paranoia that people hav,e that of clean rims. If there is dirt that can grind your braking surface away, then fine, but as I understand, this is a layer of "glazed" rubber, which is probably best left on the rim. Does the manual instruct to clean the rims with acetone regularly? If it does, then do it, if it doesn't, then don't bother
    left the forum March 2023
  • While acetone might not damage the resin, it might dissolve your stuff and push it even further inside the carbon layer, as well as not... my problem is in terms of why do you want to clean your rims in the first place. It's paranoia that people hav,e that of clean rims. If there is dirt that can grind your braking surface away, then fine, but as I understand, this is a layer of "glazed" rubber, which is probably best left on the rim. Does the manual instruct to clean the rims with acetone regularly? If it does, then do it, if it doesn't, then don't bother

    As a fact the rear wheel gets more used on braking than the front one. I had the unpleasant experience almost at the end of my long descent during pouring rain where the rear break was 100% useless. I mean the break lever was pulled to the max yet the rear wheel was still spinning (not skidding), I had to rely on the from wheel which still had some grip. What else than some grit left on the rims would explain this?

    I'd do anything to not have to go through that again (and pls don't say switch to DBs :)
  • noodleman
    noodleman Posts: 852
    dorin.boca wrote:
    While acetone might not damage the resin, it might dissolve your stuff and push it even further inside the carbon layer, as well as not... my problem is in terms of why do you want to clean your rims in the first place. It's paranoia that people hav,e that of clean rims. If there is dirt that can grind your braking surface away, then fine, but as I understand, this is a layer of "glazed" rubber, which is probably best left on the rim. Does the manual instruct to clean the rims with acetone regularly? If it does, then do it, if it doesn't, then don't bother

    As a fact the rear wheel gets more used on braking than the front one. I had the unpleasant experience almost at the end of my long descent during pouring rain where the rear brake was 100% useless. I mean the break lever was pulled to the max yet the rear wheel was still spinning (not skidding), I had to rely on the from wheel which still had some grip. What else than some grit left on the rims would explain this?

    I'd do anything to not have to go through that again (and pls don't say switch to DBs :)

    Strange that you think the rear brake is used more than the front. I've always used my front brake for the majority of my braking and it's the same in motorcycling. Using your rear as the main brake is surely asking for trouble?
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  • noodleman wrote:
    dorin.boca wrote:
    While acetone might not damage the resin, it might dissolve your stuff and push it even further inside the carbon layer, as well as not... my problem is in terms of why do you want to clean your rims in the first place. It's paranoia that people hav,e that of clean rims. If there is dirt that can grind your braking surface away, then fine, but as I understand, this is a layer of "glazed" rubber, which is probably best left on the rim. Does the manual instruct to clean the rims with acetone regularly? If it does, then do it, if it doesn't, then don't bother

    As a fact the rear wheel gets more used on braking than the front one. I had the unpleasant experience almost at the end of my long descent during pouring rain where the rear brake was 100% useless. I mean the break lever was pulled to the max yet the rear wheel was still spinning (not skidding), I had to rely on the from wheel which still had some grip. What else than some grit left on the rims would explain this?

    I'd do anything to not have to go through that again (and pls don't say switch to DBs :)

    Strange that you think the rear brake is used more than the front. I've always used my front brake for the majority of my braking and it's the same in motorcycling. Using your rear as the main brake is surely asking for trouble?

    I'm using them more or less equally, but are you telling me if a car suddenly pulls in front of you, or a cat (regardless of the color) will you touch the front brake first? I use them more or less equally but in certain situations the rear is the first engaged, at least I do, however this is not a topic of braking style but about brown (dis)coloration of the NSW brake rims and whatever residue is left (that in my case rendered the braking quality to null in heavy rain). Cheers,
    dorin