Rim brakes mudguards and single speed

timbo_tim
timbo_tim Posts: 199
edited August 2017 in Workshop
Hi

This is potentially a very stupid question but I am no stranger to those on this forum. Basically I am having difficulty getting mudguards and brakes set up on my single speed commuter.

Due to the way the mudguards attach to the frame (between the chain stays) the smallish bolts protrude about 2-3mm so I can't get the wheel (with a 25mm tyre) deep into the arch of the guards. To avoid this I have to have what appears to be an extra link in the chain so the hub axle is right at the bank of the dropout to get sufficient chain tension. However my calipers then don't hit the rim perfectly and this run against the tyre.

So in summary my chain is either too short (wheels rub against bolts on the guards) or too long. I think I am changing the chain length ok-one "inner" bit (with the roller and bushing etc) with a pair of "outer" plates but that is taking quite a lot of length from the chain hence my problem.

I am in summary really confused (and probably stupid) but I can't get the brakes any lower in the calipers (apart from filing some of the hole down) and I cant see how to shorten the chain by any less than what I am doing.

Can anyone please help

Thanks
Tim

Comments

  • Nick Payne
    Nick Payne Posts: 288
    You could try holding the mudguard on with zip ties rather than bolts, as when tightened the zip ties will hardly protrude at all on the inside of the guard. Here's a photo of a mudguard zip tied to a cyclocross frame that had no provision on the bridge between the stays for mounting a mudguard - in this case I actually spaced the guard away from the bridge because there was so much clearance between tyre and bridge, but it works just as well with no spacers.

    6tYCV2PdXPFfALaFj4FMDVW3jnNpLsOuhn-knbErgDAV-fdJ7XNQMfLDNcWrIraJi_KBNUTz78AvEfn0osO-QiJ8tFIiw-RzTr3-mI4feRFdJFXIRIykrpn3C0ZcbIss8KirmYHtDQ
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    Could you put washers on the outside of the bolts so that they don't then protrude where the tyre is?
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • timbo_tim
    timbo_tim Posts: 199
    Thanks both, I like the idea of the cable tie to remove the "depth" from the tyre, but there is a bracket screwed into the guard too (guess this could come off too). In the interim I have bought a half chain link to see how that works out. All this because I went from a 46 to a 48 chainset and sent it all out of kilter...
  • I have similar problem and had to cut away the top half of the brake pads which were fouling the tyre. This drove me mental so I ended up with some clunky really long drop calipers instead.

    Also because the wheel has to be pulled 1-2cms backwards out of the track ends for removal I need long mudguard stays at the back which leaves a big gap between tyre and guard. I think this is unavoidable if using track ends and guards.

    SS/fixed is pretty binary kit. Chain HAS to be certain length and the rest of the bike is cut to fit!
  • timbo_tim
    timbo_tim Posts: 199
    Thanks veryslowtwitch, a problem shared is a problem halved right?! Glad to hear I'm not alone/going mad. I don't know what guards you have but my chromoplastics "clip" into the plastic mount on the dropout for easy release when pulling the wheel out. Not trying to get you to spend more £££ but it might help if the gappage annoys you. Am hoping this half link works, sadly failed to turn up at the weekend but will report back if it works.