Pedaling issue after changing chain

cpper
cpper Posts: 42
edited August 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello :)

I replaced my chain today and am now facing a problem. When I'm pedaling harder, it feel like the chain slips, or something close to that. When pushing my feet harder on the pedals, the crankarms move like 30° freely, with no force being transferred to the wheel.

The replaced chain is the same as the old one, KMC X10. I have shortened the new chain to the length of the old one. The cogs or chainrings are not worn. The bike is relatively new and I replaced the chain(this is the first time) when the wear was about 0.6%. Freehub is also ok. Before changing the chain everything worked just fine.

I tried to look at the rear wheel pedaling harder, and I noticed that the derailleur cage might be somehow moving when the problem happens.

Comments

  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Have you routed the chain correctly through the jockey wheel cage?
    If it's a Shimano rear mech you need to make sure the chain is inside the tab between the jockey wheels.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    Stiff link, how did you cut and join the chain?
  • cpper
    cpper Posts: 42
    It looks like all links are flexing. I shortened my chain and put it together with the master link.
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    I'd say it sounds like something is worn. The old chain would have worn with the cassette/chainring but the new chain wants new cogs to go with it. How many miles has the bike done?
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • cpper
    cpper Posts: 42
    jamski wrote:
    I'd say it sounds like something is worn. The old chain would have worn with the cassette/chainring but the new chain wants new cogs to go with it. How many miles has the bike done?

    I have done about 4500km. The bike was working very well before changing the chain, why would I want to change the chain + cassete now ?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Because the cassette will be worn to the old chain and may not now mesh correctly with the new one.

    That said from your description it's not that but sounds like an issue with maintaining the top run chain tension so the first part of a pedal effort is taken up with restoring the chain tension.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cpper
    cpper Posts: 42
    I have just put the old chain back, and everything works well. I'll ride it this way till problems occur, than I'll change everything needed.
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    Sounds like the cassette and/or chainring(s) will need changing at the same time to me. 4500k is pretty good going!
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • mattyfez
    mattyfez Posts: 638
    Yeh the cassette has worn with the chain hence why it's now ok with the old chain back on.

    How you approach servicing really is down to how expensive your drivechain is, I buy £12 chains and £25 cassettes so I don't really care, but if you have a fancy bike with a £200 cassette it makes sense to put a new chain on more frequently to minimise wear on the cassette as it works out cheaper in the long run.

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