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Dura ace 9000 Freehub bodies

AAbrewAAbrew Posts: 9
edited April 2018 in Workshop
anyone had experience re-oiling a dura ace 9000 freehub body? Shimano #Y3DZ98060, The titanium ones for 10/11 speed wheels.
The trouble i have is accessing the inside. With other shimano FH bodies i can remove the rubber dust seal on the (spoke side) of the unit with a pick, and drip something like tenacious oil into the FH body. On the dura ace FH body, this seal appears to be partially glued to the rim of the body, and does not appear to be removeable without tearing or destroying the seal.
I am thinking of using a syringe maybe that i can squeeze some oil in under the flap of the seal? it is not completely removeable. any thoughts would be helpful

Posts

  • BobbinogsBobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    I'm afraid they are not made to be maintainable. The idea is to remove and replace.
  • buckmulliganbuckmulligan Posts: 1,031
    I've no direct experience with the Dura Ace freehub bodies, but I'd say Phil's Tenacious Oil would be rather too viscous for use in a freehub body. I've used Shimano Mineral oil in them before with good results and whilst that might be verging on the light side for all-weather use, it should be a lot easier to squeeze under a stuck seal.
  • BobbinogsBobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    The seal isn't stuck, more a case of not made to be removed. The problem is that by removing the seal and/or squeezing oil into the freehub there will then be a downward spiral for ever increasing maintenance. Hence, the best thing to do is either to leave it alone, or if the freehub is that bad then replace the unit. FWIW, I have a 9000 freehub that rumbles a bit when I flick the wheel backwards whilst holding it but it doesn't really affect me when riding so I have learned to ignore it.
  • AAbrewAAbrew Posts: 9
    thanks for the advise, makes sense. I have 2 of these FH bodies. I actually picked up a new one. Hoping to refresh the other one at some point. Im actually surpised how notchy the new one feels when just turning it by hand, but that probly doesnt matter when up to speed on the bike
  • markwb79markwb79 Posts: 937
    Bumping this and asking for help!!

    My gears are slipping massively. Sometimes I don't have drive for a slit second. Some of the cassette can move freely of the other parts.

    It seems to be the free hub, I have found a replacement part (very expensive!)

    I have stripped it down as far as I can, but with the free body still on the wheel.

    Any help would be amazing!

    Thanks
    Mark
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    What model wheel / hub?

    Link to the expensive replacement part would help

    What exactly have you stripped down if the freehub is still attached to the wheel? Just the axle and wheel bearings?

    Any photos to help us?
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Just read your description again. The bit about some bits of the cassette moving freely makes me wonder if you've somehow lost a sprocket, spacer or lock-ring??
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If it's a Dura-Ace 9000 then you need a 14mm hex to undo the tubular bolt which secures the freehub.

    According to the dealer manual you should not reuse it when fitting a replacement freehub. Some appear to be supplied with a new washer and bolt

    And yes, it also says don't remove the seal from the back
  • markwb79markwb79 Posts: 937
    hey,

    When I say freely, there is around 2mm of movement in different parts of the cassette. I think this is unrelated actually.

    Last night I took the freehub off, as per the following link. ( I didn't have the special grease gun for that part though). Put it back on and tightened it up, lots of grease on the bearings etc.

    https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Hub_How ... _3601.html

    I didn't have the issue straight away on the ride, but it started soon after. It was sort of as if the free hub comes a fraction lose. But I find that hard to believe.

    This is the expensive part I meant, its the new free hub, its a sealed unit, otherwise I would love to strip it and see whats inside. I know that the spring on campag ones can break and it doesn't release the paws to engage the wheel. But you can see that on campag ones.

    http://store.rodalink.com.my/shimano-wh ... ehub-body/
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • markwb79markwb79 Posts: 937
    Just found this video actually.

    Bloody Shimano! So many specialist tools needed!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • markwb79markwb79 Posts: 937
    Markwb79 wrote:
    Just found this video actually.

    Bloody Shimano! So many specialist tools needed!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9gIEG1db0s


    Wow...this fixed it.

    I found the tool online, didn't fit perfectly. Had to file it down a little.

    Opened up and the paw's were full of gunk. One is pretty warn, so would like to see if its possible to replace just a paws.

    if anyone has ideas of this, thats awesome. I thought about searching for broken wheels if I can't find it new.

    Definitely recommend though, not too bad a process. Very happy with the result though. Saved for 230euro!
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
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