Is it me?
greenamex2
Posts: 272
Hi
I have an issue on my bike and I am not sure it is me, the bike or just unrealistic expectations.
The rear shift is Ultegra...and awesome. Full load shifts uphill, no problem, even with a bent hanger.
The front shift is Ultegra with FSA crank (double). It is appalling. Sometimes it is OK, but at least half the it takes several rotations with no load to change up. Occasionally you have to give up, change down and back up again.
On the bike stand the shift is perfect. The bike has been to the LBS a couple of times, they seem to think it is acceptable.
My cheaper bike with Shimano XT (triple) has nothing like as much trouble.
Would appreciate some input before I start buying an Ultegra crank or DI2!
I have an issue on my bike and I am not sure it is me, the bike or just unrealistic expectations.
The rear shift is Ultegra...and awesome. Full load shifts uphill, no problem, even with a bent hanger.
The front shift is Ultegra with FSA crank (double). It is appalling. Sometimes it is OK, but at least half the it takes several rotations with no load to change up. Occasionally you have to give up, change down and back up again.
On the bike stand the shift is perfect. The bike has been to the LBS a couple of times, they seem to think it is acceptable.
My cheaper bike with Shimano XT (triple) has nothing like as much trouble.
Would appreciate some input before I start buying an Ultegra crank or DI2!
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Comments
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Don't have ultegra so don't know about that, but front shifting on my 105 Cannondale (with C'dale cranks) is perfectly acceptable so I wouldn't expect ultegra to be worse with any crank.
Front shifting on my Sora/FSA commuter was the reason I changed it to a 1x9.0 -
Actually just worked out what the issue is. The "pins" that are supposed to help the chain jump up are "worn to excess"...on a 2400 mile/£2200 (list) bike!
Still it did better than the BB that only lasted 800 miles!
Like the BB going to upgrade to Ultegra. Cheaper in the long run.0 -
FSA chainrings....no surprise.
That said, hopefully you are not doing full torque shifts at the front, really not a good idea.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The shiny new Ultegra crank changes far better than I remember the FSA when ever doing!
I tried full torque, no torque, medium torque, no spinning change and then spin. You could adjust it and it would shift OK 90% of the time and then after a couple of weeks it would slowly get worse. The latest adjustments weren't even that successful.
We shall see what the new crank does and go from their. However I am watching the Di2 thread with interest!0 -
You should NEVER do full torque shifts at the front, sure fire way to wreck the pins.
Rear shifting is carried out by the rear mech on the slack side of the chain, much more forgiving than the front mech which is trying to shift against the chain tension.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Rookie wrote:You should NEVER do full torque shifts at the front, sure fire way to wreck the pins.
Rear shifting is carried out by the rear mech on the slack side of the chain, much more forgiving than the front mech which is trying to shift against the chain tension.
I was getting desperate. Was trying to get it to shift after 100 metres of trying everything including going back down and up again. Pretty embarrassing when people of Halfords special costing less than front crankset are whizzing past you!0 -
If its reluctant to go to the bigger ring you push the lever again and it will move the mech slightly further over.....once its just dragging and not shifting it's causing damage.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:If its reluctant to go to the bigger ring you push the lever again and it will move the mech slightly further over.....once its just dragging and not shifting it's causing damage.
That worked sometimes. Unfortunately due to various medical type issues I have a tendency to run out of strength/feel in my fingers, particularly when using moving in that particular direction. Can lift an car engine block/operate a manual milling machine/work on a car all day no problem. Lifting a full cup of water without thinking about can currently cause an issue!
However, your point is very valid. I think I need to take better care of this one. This will be a lot easier now that I can actually adjust the front derailleur cable tension...god only knows what Shimano were thinking not putting in an adjuster on the lever OR the derailleur...even my kids bikes have it!0