What is the best grease for pedal threads & seat posts?

Plundertaker
Plundertaker Posts: 12
edited July 2017 in Road general
I have recently purchased a new set of Shimano Ultegra 6800 pedals to put on my new bike & was looking for some advice in selecting a good quality grease to apply to the threads before fitting them? The Finish Line anti-seize grease seems to be a popular choice but was wondering what others are using?

The bike also has an aluminium frame and a carbon seat post, would some carbon assembly paste be the best product to apply here in order to avoid the seat post slipping or becoming jammed in future?

Comments

  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    I just use this on most everything: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/weld ... p-prod5958
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,217
    Yes anti-seize on the pedal/crank threads and carbon grip paste for the carbon seat post in an alloy frame, and remember to perform the keff66 recommended maintenance tip of removing the seat post every couple of months or so, for a clean and reapplication, to prevent it becoming stuck in the seat tube permanently.
  • laurentian
    laurentian Posts: 2,387
    DJ58 wrote:
    . . . carbon grip paste for the carbon seat post in an alloy frame . . .

    Is this the best approach for alloy post in carbon frame too?
    Wilier Izoard XP
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,551
    yes

    aluminium is vulnerable to galvanic corrosion with cf, (it's less noble than carbon so the al will lose the battle), the corrosion product occupies more volume and will eventually jam the post, using cf assembly paste will greatly reduce the risk

    if it's only ridden dry or with effective mudguards it'll last a long time, but water from wet rides without guards will gradually seep in and displace it, depends on how many wet rides there are

    my frame is steel and post is cf, no corrosion issue but i redo every 4-6 months as that's about how long it lasts with the amount of wet rides, otherwise it can start clicking/creaking
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • laurentian
    laurentian Posts: 2,387
    sungod wrote:
    yes

    aluminium is vulnerable to galvanic corrosion with cf, (it's less noble than carbon so the al will lose the battle), the corrosion product occupies more volume and will eventually jam the post, using cf assembly paste will greatly reduce the risk

    if it's only ridden dry or with effective mudguards it'll last a long time, but water from wet rides without guards will gradually seep in and displace it, depends on how many wet rides there are

    my frame is steel and post is cf, no corrosion issue but i redo every 4-6 months as that's about how long it lasts with the amount of wet rides, otherwise it can start clicking/creaking

    Thanks - time to buy C paste!
    Wilier Izoard XP
  • witstu
    witstu Posts: 17
    Don't use copperslip. It seems to react badly with aluminium.
  • rnath
    rnath Posts: 176
    witstu wrote:
    Don't use copperslip. It seems to react badly with aluminium.

    Don't know about that - I've used copperslip for years and it's been fine. Generally I use copperslip for anything with threads, carbon paste for anything involving carbon parts (inc. carbon post in a steel frame), Motorex Bike Grease 2000 for "static" parts (stems etc) and Phil Wood Tenacious Oil for everything else (brakes, derailleurs etc).
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,551
    the anodic index of copper is far enough from that of aluminium for galvanic corrosion to occur, cu-al is almost as bad as ti-al in this respect, but on threaded parts the carrier grease isn't readily flushed out so it's not likely to be an issue

    if it's an area where water is likely to get in, a zn loaded antiseize is better, zn is less noble than al and will be the sacrificial element
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • sungod wrote:
    but on threaded parts the carrier grease isn't readily flushed out so it's not likely to be an issue

    Excuse my ignorance, but is that because the grease isn't acting as an electrolyte so no corrosion occurs, or is it that corrosion occurs but only in small 'quantities' as the reagents (if that makes sense) aren't being renewed? I tried to Wikipedia it but inevitably got lost.