Help Please Bloody Pedals !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IanWhite
IanWhite Posts: 85
edited July 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Ok , So

I'm trying to remove my pedal's and replace them with a nice new set of Crank Brothers Double shot's , and the bloody things will not move :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

Any idea's , thank's , Ian

Comments

  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Clockwise left pedal. Anticlockwise right.

    A decent pedal spanner helps and extra leverage - I have a garden rake that goes over any spanner for extra powerrrrrrr
  • IanWhite
    IanWhite Posts: 85
    cougie wrote:
    Clockwise left pedal. Anticlockwise right.

    A decent pedal spanner helps and extra leverage - I have a garden rake that goes over any spanner for extra powerrrrrrr

    Thanks , yes turning the left one Clockwise and the right one anticlockwise , stil not budging , I'll try the etra leverage idea if not , I give up and I'll take it to my local shop

    Thanks again , Ian
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,712
    Put the crank arm at 90 degrees to the ground, put your foot on the pedal to work against and pull up on the pedal spanner/hex key. I've never had a pedal which did not succumb to this method.
  • IanWhite
    IanWhite Posts: 85
    Thanks Chaps

    Managed to get them off , but it looks like someone had put locktight on the threads as there is a blue powder/dust on the threaded area , is this normal ?

    Cheers, Ian
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Normal, no, damn stupid, yes!

    Make sure you use copperslip on the new ones!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • IanWhite
    IanWhite Posts: 85
    The Rookie wrote:
    Normal, no, damn stupid, yes!

    Make sure you use copperslip on the new ones!

    Thaks all , would grease do the same ? , as i have no copperslip

    Ian
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Grease is better than nothing and you don't need a lot of force on the pedals.
  • IanWhite
    IanWhite Posts: 85
    Thank you all very much , great help to me

    Ian
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The precession effect on the threads mean they self tighten, so while it's advisable to nip them up pretty firmly, there really is no need for loctite.

    While copperslip is best, grease should help prevent moisture and other debris getting into the threads and seizing them, although on my commuter it still needed a bit of heat to remove the pedals that had been on for about 5 years and circa 5500 miles.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,168
    Worth reading up about precession, its counter intuitive as youd expect the pedals/bottom bracket cups to undo.
  • musclebeach
    musclebeach Posts: 116
    I had the same issue with the gf's old pedals on her old bike before she got her new ones. Watched a video to work out which way and then had to use long spanner and a hammer carefully, literally took 20 mins! They were tight AF! Probably better ways to go about it but I didn't have anything, the sound of a large leverage pole sounds MUCH better for sure!
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Not sure why people tighten pedals up really tight there is no need and only causes hassle later.

    The one thing though make sure there is plenty of grease on the threads, I had a superstar pedal axle seize on the crank arm even though I had greased it well.

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