HT2 - What a dufus

slowbike
slowbike Posts: 8,498
edited June 2017 in Workshop
I've been swapping around my cranks for the last few years - since I got a PM (yes - a Stages - doesn't matter if you don't like it - I do and this is nothing to do with PMs - just the Shimano HT2 fitting) ... and I've always had difficulty in getting the bung off - the one that pushes the crank arm up on the crank.
Method i used has always been:

fitting
put the crank arm on
screw the bung in
press the key down
tighten up the bolts

removal
undo the bung
undo the bolts
lift the key up
remove the crank arm


I have a hand key tool and purchased another one with an arm on it - the one with the arm just had a plastic interface and very quickly rounded off - the hand key one I have to use with radiator spanners to undo ..

There am I - about to take the PM on holiday to fit on one of my other bikes - not wanting to take too many tools but concerned that I can't undo the bung easily ... epiphany moment ... in theory anyway.

I always undo the bung first - but it's clamped in place by the arms of the crank arm - if I undo the bolts first that will release the bung so I shouldn't need the radiator spanners anymore ... won't I?!

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,255
    You crazy man...

    Obviously you undo the bolts BEFORE you undo the bung... otherwise it will either not come off or you will damage the plastic threads
    left the forum March 2023
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    I don't think so - you screw in the crank arm fixing cap with the bolts loose so it will have some tightness even if you loosen the bolts completely. I use one of the round ones which doesn't take up a lot of space and you don't need a spanner - it doesn't have to be that tight.

    2w4n2hs.jpg

    Like that but metal.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    You crazy man...

    Obviously you undo the bolts BEFORE you undo the bung... otherwise it will either not come off or you will damage the plastic threads

    Sometimes people just need the bleedin obvious pointing out to them ... unfortunately nobody with any intelligence has ever watched me swap cranks and therefore haven't pointed out my stupid mistake ... and it's taken me a good couple of years to finally work it out for myself (tbf - I've never given it much thought - other than "where did I leave the rad spanner?") ...
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    k-dog wrote:
    I don't think so - you screw in the crank arm fixing cap with the bolts loose so it will have some tightness even if you loosen the bolts completely. I use one of the round ones which doesn't take up a lot of space and you don't need a spanner - it doesn't have to be that tight.

    2w4n2hs.jpg

    Like that but metal.

    that's the one - but mine are plastic as in your picture - I only really thought about it as I'd fitted the PM crank arm to my TT bike in readiness - never rode it as the TT was canceled - thought I'd try undoing it and couldn't by hand - which was rediculous as I'd only tightened it up by hand ... and nothing else had changed - the bike was/is still on the stand!
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,324
    Slowbike wrote:
    fitting
    put the crank arm on
    screw the bung in
    press the key down
    tighten up the bolts

    removal
    undo the bung
    undo the bolts
    lift the key up
    remove the crank arm
    Removal is nearly always the reverse order to fitting, don't change the order without good reason.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    tested the theory last night ...
    the previously, practically immovable bung ... moved ... what a suprise ... not!
    Dufus ... :o

    Oh well - it'll make changing over to the PM easier on holiday ;)