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Wheel advice

davey.daveydavey.davey Posts: 89
edited June 2017 in Road buying advice
Hey,

I'm in the market for some new wheels for my super six evo.

My friends have got carbon zipp wheels (not sure on the model). I'm heavier than they are and they roll so much better and faster than my standard wheels.

I'm about 16 stone, average 17-18mph over 30 miles.

I love the look of carbon deep rim wheels it haven't got a clue where to start!!

Budget of about a grand, anyone got any suggestions??

Cheers

Posts

  • BobbinogsBobbinogs Posts: 4,928
    To be honest, at those speeds all wheels will roll well. On social potters I cannot determine any difference between bikes/spec but the smaller margins seem to add up as the speed gets over 20mph. I know many will say aerodynamics matter to everyone, and I can see the logic, but just haven't seen it on the road (I certainly don't experience riders zipping past me when doing 16mph just because they have an aero hat on, for example). If I was going to drop a grand then I would ask my mates to lend me their wheels to see if they made any difference.

    The biggest factor of deep section carbon wheels seems to be the bling factor so there is a lot to be said for picking a set that you like the look of. Most folks will advise against anything over 50mm because of handling in the wind, although the older V rims seem to handle like a dog, even in 35s. I had a set of 35s that left me scared of gaps in hedges, but I am only just over 10 stone so don't have a lot of ballast.
  • Pay for a nutritionist?
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • Yeah I did think about borrowing friends wheels and seeing if it made a big difference.

    They just seem to roll a lot faster than me, despite being lighter. Better wheels have better hubs (so I'm believe!?) plus the aero of the wheels must make them better surely.
  • davey.daveydavey.davey Posts: 89
    edited July 2017
    Aaaa
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    While wheels do make a difference that not the first piece of the puzzle in going quicker. Being more aero helps alot look at your position e.t.c.

    I would also caution against buying low spoke count wheels. Mine for example have a weight limit of 100kg. I would be wary of selling a set to anyone I knew to be 16st.

    The same would go for Zipps or many with a lower spoke count on the rear wheel. Spoke life will depend on the rider too and how he or she rides. Some riders are spoke killers other heavy riders are kinder to wheels.

    In short the reason why your riding friends are a bit quicker is not just down to the wheels. The wheels make up a small part of that. Also while power saving a 18 mph is tiny for good deep wheels compared to shallow box section wheels, the time savings over a course are real.

    What you can feel and what can be measured are quite different but also be realistic. I dont think a set of carbon wheels are right for you they are too low a spoke count. you would be a better of with an alloy rimmed wheel of around 30mm depth and 28 spoke count rear. There are a number to choice from. Just make it wide.

    Also nutrition has more to do with weight your reply above is making assumptions. He may not be reffering to your weight.

    Better hubs - zipp hubs are not better than cheap miche for example, bearing life is shorter, spares more expensive and hubs sheel have cracked.
    First define better before deciding something is better.

    Also lighter wont make you go faster it cant no offense but you are over 100kg. Saving 300g will do nothing. Saving 300g at my 80kg does nothing. Saving 300g for my 22kg daughter may do something if she was bothered. She is 5 and tall she is not bothered.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • joe2008joe2008 Posts: 1,919
    Pay for a nutritionist?

    Thanks for the helpful reply.

    You obviously have no idea about height and muscle you ignoramus :roll:

    Ignore... his sole, sad purpose on here is to deliver cringeworthy, sarcastic tripe.
  • While wheels do make a difference that not the first piece of the puzzle in going quicker. Being more aero helps alot look at your position e.t.c.

    I would also caution against buying low spoke count wheels. Mine for example have a weight limit of 100kg. I would be wary of selling a set to anyone I knew to be 16st.

    The same would go for Zipps or many with a lower spoke count on the rear wheel. Spoke life will depend on the rider too and how he or she rides. Some riders are spoke killers other heavy riders are kinder to wheels.

    In short the reason why your riding friends are a bit quicker is not just down to the wheels. The wheels make up a small part of that. Also while power saving a 18 mph is tiny for good deep wheels compared to shallow box section wheels, the time savings over a course are real.

    What you can feel and what can be measured are quite different but also be realistic. I dont think a set of carbon wheels are right for you they are too low a spoke count. you would be a better of with an alloy rimmed wheel of around 30mm depth and 28 spoke count rear. There are a number to choice from. Just make it wide.

    Also nutrition has more to do with weight your reply above is making assumptions. He may not be reffering to your weight.

    Better hubs - zipp hubs are not better than cheap miche for example, bearing life is shorter, spares more expensive and hubs sheel have cracked.
    First define better before deciding something is better.

    Also lighter wont make you go faster it cant no offense but you are over 100kg. Saving 300g will do nothing. Saving 300g at my 80kg does nothing. Saving 300g for my 22kg daughter may do something if she was bothered. She is 5 and tall she is not bothered.

    Thanks for the reply.

    I'll research more on the spoke count, thanks.

    I just know that my friends, who have been riding the exact same time as me (only about 3 weeks) roll a lot better than what I do. They don't even use the drops so are no more aero than myself. I'm talking of when we're going down hill, side by side, they go roll quite a bit quicker than myself, I can only really put that down to wheels!?

    As to the comment further up about nutrition. Of course he meant my weight, what else has he got in the way of facts to suggest otherwise! Just rude
  • webboowebboo Posts: 3,043
    While wheels do make a difference that not the first piece of the puzzle in going quicker. Being more aero helps alot look at your position e.t.c.

    I would also caution against buying low spoke count wheels. Mine for example have a weight limit of 100kg. I would be wary of selling a set to anyone I knew to be 16st.

    The same would go for Zipps or many with a lower spoke count on the rear wheel. Spoke life will depend on the rider too and how he or she rides. Some riders are spoke killers other heavy riders are kinder to wheels.

    In short the reason why your riding friends are a bit quicker is not just down to the wheels. The wheels make up a small part of that. Also while power saving a 18 mph is tiny for good deep wheels compared to shallow box section wheels, the time savings over a course are real.

    What you can feel and what can be measured are quite different but also be realistic. I dont think a set of carbon wheels are right for you they are too low a spoke count. you would be a better of with an alloy rimmed wheel of around 30mm depth and 28 spoke count rear. There are a number to choice from. Just make it wide.

    Also nutrition has more to do with weight your reply above is making assumptions. He may not be reffering to your weight.

    Better hubs - zipp hubs are not better than cheap miche for example, bearing life is shorter, spares more expensive and hubs sheel have cracked.
    First define better before deciding something is better.

    Also lighter wont make you go faster it cant no offense but you are over 100kg. Saving 300g will do nothing. Saving 300g at my 80kg does nothing. Saving 300g for my 22kg daughter may do something if she was bothered. She is 5 and tall she is not bothered.

    Thanks for the reply.

    I'll research more on the spoke count, thanks.

    I just know that my friends, who have been riding the exact same time as me (only about 3 weeks) roll a lot better than what I do. They don't even use the drops so are no more aero than myself. I'm talking of when we're going down hill, side by side, they go roll quite a bit quicker than myself, I can only really put that down to wheels!?

    As to the comment further up about nutrition. Of course he meant my weight, what else has he got in the way of facts to suggest otherwise! Just rude
    You have only been riding for 3 weeks and you are looking to buy deep rim carbon wheels, you maybe need to ride a bit more before blowing your money.
    Your mates may go down hill faster as they have less drag because of their size and shape or they get more aero.
  • BobbinogsBobbinogs Posts: 4,928
    Watch the pros good at descending go downhill, they get into a decent tuck and know when and where to brake, the best line and how to carry momentum by riding smooth. The hubs in the wheels make no difference to speed whatsoever.
  • Bobbinogs wrote:
    The hubs in the wheels make no difference to speed whatsoever.

    Unless you're talking about the hubs in my old commuter wheels that are so grimy and seized I can't even get the cone off to service them.
  • webboo wrote:
    While wheels do make a difference that not the first piece of the puzzle in going quicker. Being more aero helps alot look at your position e.t.c.

    I would also caution against buying low spoke count wheels. Mine for example have a weight limit of 100kg. I would be wary of selling a set to anyone I knew to be 16st.

    The same would go for Zipps or many with a lower spoke count on the rear wheel. Spoke life will depend on the rider too and how he or she rides. Some riders are spoke killers other heavy riders are kinder to wheels.

    In short the reason why your riding friends are a bit quicker is not just down to the wheels. The wheels make up a small part of that. Also while power saving a 18 mph is tiny for good deep wheels compared to shallow box section wheels, the time savings over a course are real.

    What you can feel and what can be measured are quite different but also be realistic. I dont think a set of carbon wheels are right for you they are too low a spoke count. you would be a better of with an alloy rimmed wheel of around 30mm depth and 28 spoke count rear. There are a number to choice from. Just make it wide.

    Also nutrition has more to do with weight your reply above is making assumptions. He may not be reffering to your weight.

    Better hubs - zipp hubs are not better than cheap miche for example, bearing life is shorter, spares more expensive and hubs sheel have cracked.
    First define better before deciding something is better.

    Also lighter wont make you go faster it cant no offense but you are over 100kg. Saving 300g will do nothing. Saving 300g at my 80kg does nothing. Saving 300g for my 22kg daughter may do something if she was bothered. She is 5 and tall she is not bothered.

    Thanks for the reply.

    I'll research more on the spoke count, thanks.

    I just know that my friends, who have been riding the exact same time as me (only about 3 weeks) roll a lot better than what I do. They don't even use the drops so are no more aero than myself. I'm talking of when we're going down hill, side by side, they go roll quite a bit quicker than myself, I can only really put that down to wheels!?

    As to the comment further up about nutrition. Of course he meant my weight, what else has he got in the way of facts to suggest otherwise! Just rude
    You have only been riding for 3 weeks and you are looking to buy deep rim carbon wheels, you maybe need to ride a bit more before blowing your money.
    Your mates may go down hill faster as they have less drag because of their size and shape or they get more aero.


    I figured I'm gonna invest eventually, I can afford it so why not.

    I can see what you're saying as they maybe be more aero due to their size. But I'm sure my weight would take me down the hill quicker than they would. I'll keep researching, there's obviously a lot of debate on this subject :)
  • Bobbinogs wrote:
    Watch the pros good at descending go downhill, they get into a decent tuck and know when and where to brake, the best line and how to carry momentum by riding smooth. The hubs in the wheels make no difference to speed whatsoever.

    My friends definitely are not pros haha
  • mrb123mrb123 Posts: 2,786
    Why don't you try swapping wheels with one of your faster rolling friends and see if you're suddenly faster than him downhill (my prediction is that you won't be). That way you'll know if it really is the wheels that make the difference.
  • SpudboySpudboy Posts: 101
    Get some handbuilt carbon wheels with 28 spokes on the rear and 24 on the front with some good hubs. This spoke count isn't standard but most wheelbuilders that can supply carbon rims should be able to source I would have thought. They will be plenty strong enough, they will look the business but be under no illusion that they will not magically make you faster. Should be able to wrap that up in the £1k budget too.
  • singletonsingleton Posts: 1,652
    Lots of people like "brands" and lots of other people suggest hand-builts are the best for the money, but there's loads of options when you do that.
    I went somewhere in the middle and bought from Hunt Wheels who are an online company who get good reviews - although to be fair lots of other small companies get good reviews as well.
    Their regular wheels are recommended for 95kg or 100Kg max rider weight. If you're happy to consider alloy then they do a set of their alloy aero race wheels (31mm depth, 24mm width) with a 130Kg rider weight
    https://www.huntbikewheels.com/collecti ... er-jan-wk4
  • dinyulldinyull Posts: 2,962
    Is it at all possible that your mates are slightly fitter that you....hence their better rolling?

    Aero wheels will offer some gains, but aren't magic. Position on the bike and clothing is likely to offer bigger gains.

    But if you like the look and can afford them then why not? But make sure they can support your weight.
  • Thanks for all the helpful replies.

    Haha I'm under illusion that they are going to make me magically faster, but every little helps.

    I do love the look of them too which is another reason for me wanting some.

    I'll have a look at hand built wheels, never even considered that before.

    We're all about the same fitness level, it was just frustrating that going downhill, not even pedalling, in the same ish position that they rolled far faster. Even with me on the drops and them on the hoods. I'm heavier than them so surely I should be rolling faster down a hill!?
  • singleton wrote:
    Lots of people like "brands" and lots of other people suggest hand-builts are the best for the money, but there's loads of options when you do that.
    I went somewhere in the middle and bought from Hunt Wheels who are an online company who get good reviews - although to be fair lots of other small companies get good reviews as well.
    Their regular wheels are recommended for 95kg or 100Kg max rider weight. If you're happy to consider alloy then they do a set of their alloy aero race wheels (31mm depth, 24mm width) with a 130Kg rider weight
    https://www.huntbikewheels.com/collecti ... er-jan-wk4

    Thanks for the link and advice, I'll check them out :D
  • dinyulldinyull Posts: 2,962
    We're all about the same fitness level, it was just frustrating that going downhill, not even pedalling, in the same ish position that they rolled far faster. Even with me on the drops and them on the hoods. I'm heavier than them so surely I should be rolling faster down a hill!?

    Again, repeating what's already bee said in this thread the difference "rolling" will be tiny, if anything. So many variables at play to simply lay at the door of wheels.

    Position, clothing, tyre pressure, momentum over the top of the hill.....
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