Single chainring conversion

DeVlaeminck
DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,106
edited June 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
I've got an oldish Kona Fire Mountain Deluxe I'm giving my son, the drive train is worn and it had a bent middle chain ring, the deal is he gets the bike but he has to do the work on it so he knows the basics of maintaining it I'm giving him the bits.

As he's 15 and weighs about 9 stone I'm thinking a single ring conversion with a narrow- wide ring would suit and prevent him bending cheap replacment rings by misshifting.

Am I right in thinking I can just remove the small ring, stick a narrow-wide say 34 tooth 104 bcd in place of the middle ring and discard the outer ? The mechs are Deore so no clutch mechanism but I could leave the front one on as a chain guide ?

My questions are will a narrow wide ring work with 9 speed, I've read it might be a little loose? Also do I need some kind of spacer for the front ring, looking at it I don't think I will but never done this before, it's a cheap fsa dyna-drive crank. Will I be ok with washers if the chainring bolts are too long ?

So the new ring, chain, recable, maybe cassette and brake pads if I'm feeling generous?

Thanks
[Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yup, bin the three rings and fit one in the middle.

    Narrow wide works fine with 9 speed as the chain internal width is the same (3/32") as 10/11 (or 5,6,7 and 8 speed for that matter), whoever thinks it will be loose as 'ten speed is narrower innit' is a retard as its only the outer width that reduces.

    I ran mine as 9 speed narrow wide for 2 years and never dropped a chain.

    Personally I'd suggest a 32 or 30T as the first effort.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Works fine, have a few like that.
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  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,106
    Cheers, will get the easier gearing too.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,171
    loosing two rings, you need to consider gearing which depends on the terrain ridden. if there are steep hills I think you would be looking a 36t rear and 32 or 30 t front.

    you can fit a bash ring to replace the outer one
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I rode my 1x9 for two years with a 32 and an 11-34, it was only on much longer rides that having to push harder on hills was an issue, I wouldn't go to the cost of a change the cassette, just stick with a 32 or 30t front.

    I'm now running 1x10 using my old nine speed mech with a road ten speed shifter, I went up to a 34t and now use an 11-40 cassette.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    The Rookie wrote:
    I rode my 1x9 for two years with a 32 and an 11-34, it was only on much longer rides that having to push harder on hills was an issue, I wouldn't go to the cost of a change the cassette, just stick with a 32 or 30t front.

    I'm now running 1x10 using my old nine speed mech with a road ten speed shifter, I went up to a 34t and now use an 11-40 cassette.

    This is good advice, always make sure you have the range of gears you need.