Any one fitted Shimano Hydraulic road Brakes
Finally got around to sourcing some Shimano 685's with the 805 flat mounts for my Kinesis GF ti .
Been running with mechanical TRP spyres which are still in situ. Couple of questions re fitting the new Brakes.
Firstly they ve come Hoses attatched to the Calipers. Take it they are already bleed and the Mineral Oil is in the Shift levers.
I intend to fit the calipers on the frame then run the hoses back towards ( through the frame ) to the levers.
There is a plastic bung over the hose end and a plug in the lever. take it both need removing.
Will I need to fill and bleed the system and where is the actual reservoir. ( I can google online bleeding instructions but there doesn't seem to be anything on initial set up and fit.)
If I need to shorten/ cut hoses whats the best way to do this.
Finally as my frame is flat mount compatible and these are the flat mount calipers I take it I will need to run a 140mm rotor at the back.
My LBS will fit them (in time ) for me , but I feel a bit of a git sourcing components on line and then asking them to fit them.
Been running with mechanical TRP spyres which are still in situ. Couple of questions re fitting the new Brakes.
Firstly they ve come Hoses attatched to the Calipers. Take it they are already bleed and the Mineral Oil is in the Shift levers.
I intend to fit the calipers on the frame then run the hoses back towards ( through the frame ) to the levers.
There is a plastic bung over the hose end and a plug in the lever. take it both need removing.
Will I need to fill and bleed the system and where is the actual reservoir. ( I can google online bleeding instructions but there doesn't seem to be anything on initial set up and fit.)
If I need to shorten/ cut hoses whats the best way to do this.
Finally as my frame is flat mount compatible and these are the flat mount calipers I take it I will need to run a 140mm rotor at the back.
My LBS will fit them (in time ) for me , but I feel a bit of a git sourcing components on line and then asking them to fit them.
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Comments
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On my mountain bike I bought the components online and paid the LBS to fit them. This was to completely remove existing brakes and much better new ones including levers, pipes and callipers. For £40 they did a very clean job.
If you check with them they can normally put an insert in to allow larger brake rotors but worth checking. My road bike with disc brakes has 785 callipers and 685 shifters, they work very well on the 160mm rotors..0 -
Download the technical manuals.0
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Another vote for downloading the manuals at http://si.shimano.com/#/ . The DM-GN0001-18 document on that page is probably the best starting point.
I grappled my way through this a year or so ago with a GT Grade Ultegra. Quite frustrating if I am honest. You'll need quite a few bits and bobs, including:
Olives and Connectors [CHECK THE MANUAL FOR YOUR LEVERS]
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Shima ... PNiP-VRIEg
Bleed kit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-disc- ... 04zkme-Zkg
Bleed Funnel
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-SM-DI ... Swv9hW2tmZ
The actual hose cutting can be done with normal cable outer cutters. If already filled with mineral oil, only the oil in the trimmed part runs out. Surface tension keeps the oil in the connected mainline provided you don't open the bleed nipple (which is under the rubber hoods, btw.)
Best of luck. It's a pffaf the first time round, but once set up well the braking is pretty awesome. Think I'm a disc brake converty for winter. Doubt I'll ever be a disc brake rider for summer though.0 -
Didn't mean to come over as abrupt, but the workshop manuals have a step by step illustrated installation and servicing guide.
If the hoses aren't attached at both ends, the system will be dry. Mine were dry.
Alternatively, if they are connected at both ends, its trivial to find out if they are ready to use - they'll work. In that case, you can sometimes get away with cutting hoses to length and refitting, without needing to re-bleed the entire system.
Buy a bleed kit anyway, you'll need it eventually.0 -
Down loaded the tech manuals. So far only fitted the front as the internal cable runs for my frame are an absolute pain.
Need to trim the front hose, it appears dry, I assume all the Mineral Oil is in the Hoods , theres a yellow cap over the entry point for the Hose in the lever and the tech manual says just plug it in and tighten the 8mm bolt.
Surely the hose needs and olive and a connector in it first???????????0 -
I've not done road hydraulic STIs but I'm sure you will need a barb and olive. If the hose is dry there will not be enough fluid in the hoods and you will need to buy some. Get a bleed kit, I'd recommend Epic Bleed Solutions. Lots of mountain bikers use them and recommend them. I got a universal bleed kit from them and have been happy with it. Shimano mineral oil is the same as LHM used on some cars but with a different colour dye in it.tim wand wrote:Surely the hose needs and olive and a connector in it first???????????0 -
Job done. Thank feck.
Points to note. The hoses do have mineral oil in them. It doesn't leak out when the hoses are cut to length ( Capilary pressure keeps it in ) , If you cut the hoses then obviously new Barbs and Olives need to be fitted. They are prefitted in the Hoses if that length is ok for you.
Rear flat mount requires either a 140mm rotor or a wedge to run 160mm
Front caliper comes with a Wedge which either faces up one way for 140mm or Reversed up the other way for 160mm rotor.
Fitting a hydraulic hose back from the caliper through the chainstay around the bottom bracket and across the down tube internally is possibly the hardest bit of bike tech I ve ever done.
On the plus side I can now do a Rubiks cube in my pocket ( Thank god for welding rod )
Thanks for all the advice guys.0 -
Hello Tim - how did you do this in the end? I have received the below. Do I just remove the rubber stop (without trimming) and the yellow plug & push in before tightening?
thanks & any help appreciated!
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