Dropper seat cable help
mrbubbaman
Posts: 171
I replaced my dropper seat cable and installed a new lever. The issue I have now, is the cable end that attaches to the lever, doesn't have a block on the end (no idea what the proper name for them is)
The round end, is used at the seat post, as it slots in to the dropper.
The other end normally has a grub screw attaching it to the lever, but the replacement lever is made by another company.
I've tried a cable end that crimps on, this lasted a few days, but fell off today.
Any ideas what I can use? Attached picture may assist. If I can avoid it, I'd rather not by another lever.
The round end, is used at the seat post, as it slots in to the dropper.
The other end normally has a grub screw attaching it to the lever, but the replacement lever is made by another company.
I've tried a cable end that crimps on, this lasted a few days, but fell off today.
Any ideas what I can use? Attached picture may assist. If I can avoid it, I'd rather not by another lever.
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You pics don't work, but sounds like it's not going to work anyway, unless you solder something onto the end. then you probably won't be able to adjust it.
A crimp will never work.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:You pics don't work, but sounds like it's not going to work anyway, unless you solder something onto the end. then you probably won't be able to adjust it.
A crimp will never work.
Picture should be there now, was hoping there was something that I could thread through and use a grub screw top secure?
Otherwise, is there another lever that would work? The old basic lever was a pain0 -
Picture still doesn't work.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Picture works for me.
Don't know if you can get the right size nipple to go on the end but you used to be able to get them for motorbikes in either solder on or one with a grub screw that clamped down on the cable when you threaded it through the centre of the nipple.0 -
odyssey-knarps-cable ends0
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JGTR wrote:odyssey-knarps-cable ends
These them? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/odys ... -prod50883
I can't see how the cable stays secure, unless I'm being really thick.... Which is very possible today :x0 -
There's a screw in the end that you can't see on the chain reaction pic. See here instead https://www.amazon.co.uk/Odyssey-Knarps ... B018ROMVK22015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)0 -
Solderless nipples are another option sold by Clarks but in bags of 50 which will be too many for most shops to order in as they'll last them years but they are available elsewhere.
https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/solderless-nipples/I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0 -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222292075214 maybe
I've also had cars with a barrel and a grub screw going in sideways to do the same thing, looks a bit like one of these cut in half https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361503862643Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Tried the ones from chain reaction cycles and they are too big and it doesn't work. Back to the drawing board!
There must be a remote out there that works this way?0 -
What about routing the cable the other way and putting the screw on end at the seatpost?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Another (ugly) option might be to get one of those universal cables that has a different sized barrel at each end and then cut a load of the cable out in the middle and re-attach using something like a cable connector like you might use on speaker cable. It would be ugly and would depend on what barrel you need each end, but ultimately you may have just discovered that parts from different brands do not always play nicely together.0
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Both of the above suggestions might actually work! Will try when I'm next off work.
Another option I've found http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=4646&g=1149910&p=1149918&d=124&c=4&l=2&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Seatpost%20Spares&gclid=CjwKEAjwpdnJBRC4hcTFtc6fwEkSJABwupNiJtr4bpk9qM-Dsf60gFaxkGrXn9ICnxmEVSkB28WHrhoCEIXw_wcB
Looking at the install instructions, the wire threads through and is then secured with a bolt/screw0 -
Almost £60 is a hell of a lot for a lever. What post are you trying to improve?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:Almost £60 is a hell of a lot for a lever. What post are you trying to improve?
It's a Giant contact SL0 -
Get the right remote?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Contro ... SwfpVZJYKR
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Giant-Seatpos ... SwnHZYSV0KCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The Rookie wrote:
It came with one of those, they just aren't that great and wanted something better to use. The Easton one, whilst it was working, was so much easier to use0
