Care of Carbon/Alloy Wheels

kingrollo
kingrollo Posts: 3,198
edited May 2017 in Road general
I recently purchased some carbon/alloy wheels (alu rim with carbon fairing) - I brought them used but they look in very good condition. I read somewhere that I should regularly 'grease the nipples' - I thought this was something you only did when building the wheel - but one article reckoned to do it after every 3/4 rides ?

What do I use - and how do I do it ?

For the first time I am running 25mm tyres - the wheels are 50mm carbon - what would be a suitable inner tube to carry as a spare - 60mm valve ? - or 80mm

Edit - Wheels are shimano RS80 c50 (older ones with red logo)

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    Leave them alone... besides, if they have a fairing, you can't access the nipples... although, wait a minute, the C50 is not a fairing, it is structural carbon bonded to alloy, I seem to recall

    I'd say 80 mm valve
    left the forum March 2023
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    Leave them alone... besides, if they have a fairing, you can't access the nipples... although, wait a minute, the C50 is not a fairing, it is structural carbon bonded to alloy, I seem to recall

    I'd say 80 mm valve

    Yes your probably right - its not a fairing (I only brought them for the looks) - I can access the nipples - but I shouldn't be greasing them ?
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    What are you going to achieve by greasing the nipples? It's not a moving part and you can't access the threads of the spoke, which is the only part that might require grease (as used during the build). Some folks in sandals swear by putting grease everywhere, but really it is completely pointless
    left the forum March 2023
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    kingrollo wrote:
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    Leave them alone... besides, if they have a fairing, you can't access the nipples... although, wait a minute, the C50 is not a fairing, it is structural carbon bonded to alloy, I seem to recall

    I'd say 80 mm valve

    Yes your probably right - its not a fairing (I only brought them for the looks) - I can access the nipples - but I shouldn't be greasing them ?

    As Ugo says, I don't understand the point of doing this, as there are no moving parts that will benefit by doing so. I've had a set of C24s for about six years now and I've never applied grease or anything else to the spoke nipples (which I would presume are the same spoke nipples as yours anyway). The wheels have never needed truing, but the nipples still look like new anyway.
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    If I shouldn't be greasing thats good news.

    A quick google threw up some results that I should be - hence my questions

    Thanks for clearing that up.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    The "greasers" are very active on forums... one of the myths is that of greasing the spokes intersections (for wheels where spokes to overlap) to avoid rubbing noises... which is the same as fitting a pair of earplugs... you don't solve the problem, you just mask it. Greasing the nipples is also presented as a cure for various noises, which ,if present are a symptom of low tension... so one should sort the tension, not lube the nipples
    left the forum March 2023
  • robbo2011
    robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    What are you going to achieve by greasing the nipples? It's not a moving part and you can't access the threads of the spoke, which is the only part that might require grease (as used during the build). Some folks in sandals swear by putting grease everywhere, but really it is completely pointless

    How about to stop the nipples seizing in the rim so that future adjustments are possible?
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    robbo2011 wrote:
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    What are you going to achieve by greasing the nipples? It's not a moving part and you can't access the threads of the spoke, which is the only part that might require grease (as used during the build). Some folks in sandals swear by putting grease everywhere, but really it is completely pointless

    How about to stop the nipples seizing in the rim so that future adjustments are possible?

    They don't seize in the rim, they seize on the spoke, as above
    left the forum March 2023
  • robbo2011
    robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    robbo2011 wrote:
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    What are you going to achieve by greasing the nipples? It's not a moving part and you can't access the threads of the spoke, which is the only part that might require grease (as used during the build). Some folks in sandals swear by putting grease everywhere, but really it is completely pointless

    How about to stop the nipples seizing in the rim so that future adjustments are possible?

    They don't seize in the rim, they seize on the spoke, as above

    I'm thinking of my Mavic Ksyriums which are a little different to the norm i guess.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    robbo2011 wrote:
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    robbo2011 wrote:
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    What are you going to achieve by greasing the nipples? It's not a moving part and you can't access the threads of the spoke, which is the only part that might require grease (as used during the build). Some folks in sandals swear by putting grease everywhere, but really it is completely pointless

    How about to stop the nipples seizing in the rim so that future adjustments are possible?

    They don't seize in the rim, they seize on the spoke, as above

    I'm thinking of my Mavic Ksyriums which are a little different to the norm i guess.

    In your case the nipple screws onto the rim, but greasing the outside won't help the thread to not seize. They have a threadlock compound that should prevent corrosion, if well maintained
    left the forum March 2023
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    I have some Vision trimax T35's, carbon alloy clinchers like yours. Few years old now and they see a wetwipe now and again if they get dirty. Thats it.
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    Been out on them a couple of times - pretty good.

    One thing I have noticed is the rear wheel doesn't to spin for very long - (The bike hangs on the wall when not in use) - I m think hubs or the wheel isn't quite true. The guy I brought them of said he had stripped and serviced the hubs

    Any ideas what to do - or how much an LBS would charge to true the wheel and overhaul the hubs ?
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    kingrollo wrote:
    Been out on them a couple of times - pretty good.

    One thing I have noticed is the rear wheel doesn't to spin for very long - (The bike hangs on the wall when not in use) - I m think hubs or the wheel isn't quite true. The guy I brought them of said he had stripped and serviced the hubs

    Any ideas what to do - or how much an LBS would charge to true the wheel and overhaul the hubs ?

    A wheel 'not spinning very long' is not an indication of much, if anything. Not sure what you mean when you say you 'think' the wheel might not be true. A simple visual check will tell you this - either it is, or it isn't.
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    Imposter wrote:
    kingrollo wrote:
    Been out on them a couple of times - pretty good.

    One thing I have noticed is the rear wheel doesn't to spin for very long - (The bike hangs on the wall when not in use) - I m think hubs or the wheel isn't quite true. The guy I brought them of said he had stripped and serviced the hubs

    Any ideas what to do - or how much an LBS would charge to true the wheel and overhaul the hubs ?

    A wheel 'not spinning very long' is not an indication of much, if anything. Not sure what you mean when you say you 'think' the wheel might not be true. A simple visual check will tell you this - either it is, or it isn't.

    It seems to spin to quite nicely - but then stops as though its catching on something. I've backed off the brake blocks but this still happens. A quick glance the wheel seems to run true - but I wonder if slow down means it isn't (No from what u have said)

    I will have a closer look tonight.
    It certainly doesn't spin as long as my other wheels with 7k on - but they aren't deep section. Maybe Im being over cautious as I haven't brought used wheels before - and still can't believe the price i paid.
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    I am not sure how a wheel not being true would cause it to stop spinning. I would take the wheel out of the frame, hold the axle ends between thumbs/big fingers and then spin it backwards with one of the spare fingers. You should be able to feel if the hub/freehub is running smooth or grainy (usual indication of hub needing attention).

    When it comes to the wheel being true, just replace the wheel in the frame and offset a brake block (using the centering bolt), leave a mm or two free and spin the wheel. Check the gap to see lateral movement to/from the brake block and then check the brake track against the block to see if there is any vertical movement. Finally, check for any play in the preload, etc., but there will usually be a little slight flex in the frame/wheel rather than play.

    Perhaps the unbelievable price you paid was not so unbelievable :-)
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    Removed the wheel - it spins fine - put it back in - now its spinning fine. probably was catching a brake block.

    Many thanks for all replies above.

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