removing BB30 to BSA adaptor sleeve

raymond82

Hello!

There's a BB30 to BSA sleeve installed on my CAAD10 which I would like to replace with a Wheels mfg conversion BB. Only thing I don't know is how to remove the sleeve, I believe it's glued so what is the best way to get it out? I found one video on youtube where an old square taper BB was screwed in and then the whole thing was beaten out with a hammer but this doesn't seem like a great idea...

I mean one of these:
https://s14-eu5.ixquick.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstatic.bike-components.de%2Fcache%2Fp%2Fz1%2F3%2F8%2FTruvativ-Innenlageradapter-BB30-auf-BSA-38131-0-1481256572.jpeg&sp=20a4ad6d52f5f6c179be5c34abf86c8b

Thanks!!

timothyw

Did you not install it? Is the frame it is installed in valuable and carbon?

I'd be strongly inclined to let a bike shop take the risk, or just live with it to be quite honest - I'm imagining you aren't experiencing any negative issues with it?

In the long run you'll save a lot of money using BSA shimano/sram bottom brackets instead of the wheels conversion one - put the money you save towards weight saving elsewhere if that is what the issue is.

raymond82

TimothyW wrote:

Did you not install it? Is the frame it is installed in valuable and carbon?

I'd be strongly inclined to let a bike shop take the risk, or just live with it to be quite honest - I'm imagining you aren't experiencing any negative issues with it?

In the long run you'll save a lot of money using BSA shimano/sram bottom brackets instead of the wheels conversion one - put the money you save towards weight saving elsewhere if that is what the issue is.

I do have an issue actually, the current bottom bracket is creaking and it's driving me nuts. The frame is alloy but valuable to me for sure. Is there no way to take this out yourself without risking damaging the frame? In the bikeshop when they installed it they mentioned it could be pressed out, I suppose the glue he mentioned is more like locktight or something similar.

Why do you think I'll save money in the long run? Replacing a BSA bottom bracket costs around 30 euro, I believe the bearings of the Wheels mfg conversion bottom brackets can also be replaced when worn, probably that won't be that much more expensive right?

jgsi

These sleeves can be removed from a frame like a Caad10 - most likely that the person who did it, did use Loctite 609 retaining adhesive.. so pressing it out is doable.
Someone managed to fit up a metal tube the same diameter as the sleeve and carefully rigged up a press or tapped it out.
I would suggest you strip the bike so you work on just the frame and rest it on wooden blocks to do the removal process.
Slowly slowly.
My Caad10 has run bb30 without any issue whatsover since purchase in 2013. Bearings get replaced from time to time.
You will have to make a judgement call as to how the shell looks after removal.

timothyw

raymond82 wrote:

TimothyW wrote:

Did you not install it? Is the frame it is installed in valuable and carbon?

I'd be strongly inclined to let a bike shop take the risk, or just live with it to be quite honest - I'm imagining you aren't experiencing any negative issues with it?

In the long run you'll save a lot of money using BSA shimano/sram bottom brackets instead of the wheels conversion one - put the money you save towards weight saving elsewhere if that is what the issue is.

I do have an issue actually, the current bottom bracket is creaking and it's driving me nuts. The frame is alloy but valuable to me for sure. Is there no way to take this out yourself without risking damaging the frame? In the bikeshop when they installed it they mentioned it could be pressed out, I suppose the glue he mentioned is more like locktight or something similar.

Why do you think I'll save money in the long run? Replacing a BSA bottom bracket costs around 30 euro, I believe the bearings of the Wheels mfg conversion bottom brackets can also be replaced when worn, probably that won't be that much more expensive right?

Oh, well if it's creaking I'd be inclined to at least try putting an old bottom bracket in and giving it a few good digs with a mallet, such as shown in that video. Or, instead of the mallet, you could try the softer approach of putting the bottom bracket on a hard surface (eg the floor) and then pressing the frame around the BB downwards to see if it starts to slide.

For what it's worth, hammering out the old bottom bracket is pretty much the standard procedure to remove an old press fit BB so although it might look violent it's pretty much par for the course:
http://road.cc/content/feature/173478-h ... t-bearings

My sums were rather based on the fact that Shimano BSA bottom brackets can be had for a £10 versus the conversion bottom brackets which run £50 - if you're happy replacing the bearings directly then sure, probably not much money to be saved.

Still though, it's the sort of job that you'll only need to do once, can't see the harm in taking it to your LBS and seeing if they manage it - you don't have to pay em if they can't do it!

raymond82

Thanks for your replies! I'm doubting now about whether to ask the bike shop to do it. It's just that I'm thinking of investing in a bearing press (also need to change bearings in my wheels) and it feels silly to ask for them only to remove the BB but not for them to install the new one and I do want to do it myself.

Stripping the bike and setting up a dedicated spot to work on sounds like a good idea indeed so if I go for it myself I'll definitely do that. Interesting to see the just use a hammer in that road.cc link but it's general good advice to tap it lightly with a mallet to see what happens. I suppose if the frame is properly fixed there's not much danger of damaging it when using a mallet. I actually wonder what happens when I unscrew the BSA cups that are now in there, II don't know how tight these sleeves fit but I can imagine the sleeve already comes loose because of that.

The reason for not having using the BB30 bearings is that I already had a powermeter for a GXP cransket when I bought the frame therefore I have to keep using GXP ones. I don't mind paying a bit more for the Wheels mfg ones if they don't creak because the noise annoys the hell out of me...