Shifting - tried everything - won't work right - desperate
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I bought a new cassette and tried that but no difference - the problem was happening even without the wheel inserted where there was a very slight movement in the RD rather than a full shift. Feels like it has to be a cable issue.0
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Can you beg,borrow or buy a shifter to test? Alternatively, fit full length inner and outer cables which will help to isolate the problem.0
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Using my last bit of inner cable at the moment and can't risk removing it to test it outside of the internal routing.
Spent ages again today on it. Still problems. I get shifting at the top end of the cassette dialled in then the shifting at the bottom end goes tits up and vice versa. And still getting slight shifts up and down rather than full ones so end up having to double shift but it's random and what works one minute doesn't the next.
I can't do anything else at the moment other than live with it.
I've got an 8 year old bike with a Sora/Deore combo which I set up and the shifting is impeccable - just a touch of the lever and up it goes.0 -
pastryboy wrote:I get shifting at the top end of the cassette dialled in then the shifting at the bottom end goes tits up and vice versa.
That still doesn't sound like a cable issue to me.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
Im open to suggestions but shifter and RD aside everything is brand new and I have setup gears fine before. It just seems inconsistent whatever I do and gets worse. Will be trying full exterior routing when I can
Interstingly whilst looking around I found some other similar posts involving the same frame.0 -
One of them USB scopey things off Amazon.. get an idea whats going on inside that frame of yours.0
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1) jockey wheels could be worn
2) new hanger can still be misaligned, take it to a shop and check alignment
3) if it's internally routed, the front and rear mech cables could easily be crossed over inside the down tube, this has been a frustrating cause of bad shifting a few times.
4) could be that the actual rear mech is slightly bent causing bad shifting, or the pivots are worn.
5) I assume the b screw is set correctly? this can wildly affect shifting on some setups.0 -
Sounds exactly like mine that a new mech fixed instantly. I'd try Jockey wheels before anything else.Saracen Tenet 3 - 2015 - Dead - Replaced with a Hack Frame
Voodoo Bizango - 2014 - Dead - Hit by a car
Vitus Sentier VRS - 20170 -
Have you checked the cable routing where it connects to the mech? I once had a similar problem, turned out to be because I'd led it into the cable clamp incorrectly.Pannier, 120rpm.0
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Firstly, thanks for the all the suggestions.
The bike has only done 2.5k miles and very rarely in the wet. The jockey wheels look good as new.
Cable feeds in through the frame just fine, nothing to suggest it's catching/crossing anywhere. FD cable that runs a similar route not been touched. Cable is clamped correctly into the RD and has been done umpteen times now.
I no longer 'need' to use the bike so have time to tinker with it a bit in the stand. Next thing I will try is running the cable completely outside of the frame. If that fails then I think it has to be trying a new RD.0 -
this thread needs picsRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
It was bugging me and the Leicester game looked done so I went and tested....
It's the frame.
Taped the cable outside the frame and got the shifting working fine - the upshifts that weren't happening before now are.
I've removed the plastic cable guide that was inside the frame and replaced it with the plastic inner sheath of a gear cable I'd dissected previously.
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the frame cable guide I removed but it is a harder plastic and a more snug fit (around the inner) than what I've replaced it with. Moving it (the inner sheath I've put in) back and forth in the frame there is a rough sound where it's rubbing against something (heard of expanding foam being inside these frames) but I've put an innner into it and that moves freely.
So hopefully when I fit a new inner cable into the frame it will work OK now but, failing that, I'll just run the cable outside with cable ties. What an absolute palaver - must have wasted 12 hours or so on this!0 -
pastryboy wrote:It was bugging me and the Leicester game looked done so I went and tested....
It's the frame.
Taped the cable outside the frame and got the shifting working fine - the upshifts that weren't happening before now are.
I've removed the plastic cable guide that was inside the frame and replaced it with the plastic inner sheath of a gear cable I'd dissected previously.
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the frame cable guide I removed but it is a harder plastic and a more snug fit (around the inner) than what I've replaced it with. Moving it (the inner sheath I've put in) back and forth in the frame there is a rough sound where it's rubbing against something (heard of expanding foam being inside these frames) but I've put an innner into it and that moves freely.
So hopefully when I fit a new inner cable into the frame it will work OK now but, failing that, I'll just run the cable outside with cable ties. What an absolute palaver - must have wasted 12 hours or so on this!0 -
That I don't know - but there was casing inside the frame when I got it and when it was new it shifted fine. I don't see why having it in there would be detrimental in any way.0
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