Will bike geometry make a big difference for one to do manual or bunny hop?

NerveAL79
NerveAL79 Posts: 2
edited March 2017 in MTB general
Will bike geometry and setup make a one bike much easier to do manual or bunny hop than others? What could be the key influencing factors? such as a 29' vs a 27.5'? head tube angle?

i am 174cm, currently riding a M size Canyon nerve 29, sometimes felt it too big to control. (if i had not changed the original stem from 70mm to 50mm, i could not even "sit" on back wheel while my hands on the handle bar). and haven't succeed with bunny hop.

anyone with Canyon Nerve have similar experience? Should i consider a S size instead?

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Manuals get is mostly about the chainstay length from BB (where most your weight will be applied to the bike) and the rear axle line, a 29er will nearly always have a longer rear centre than a 27.5 or 26". Frame size rarely impact this length.

    Bunny hoping depends on how you do it, if you manual and then lift the rear it will be harder due to that linger rear, if you just lift the bike then it won't make any difference at all.

    Depending on your dimensions a M or S may be the right size at 174cm (5' 8").
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.